1994 LT1 -time for new engine mounts
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 16,489
Likes: 25
From: USA. Northern Virginia
1994 LT1 -time for new engine mounts
Its time. The Vette has 151K on the clock and 22 years under her belt. Time for some new engine mounts to be installed this winter during the project months.
-Who has completed this change and what tips and tricks do you have to offer?
Thanks.
-Who has completed this change and what tips and tricks do you have to offer?
Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
X3.My car has more miles than yours and it's older. I don't see any reason why I need to change mine.
Now our CTS-V...the engine was sitting on the frame rails (at 28,000 miles/4 yrs old). Both "hydraulic" motor mounts were blown out (popped) and those definitely needed to be replaced.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 697
Likes: 30
From: Kansas City, Kansas
It's easy with exhaust manifolds and oil pan removed, but I would guess it's a PITA with everything in there. I would look into holding the engine up one side at a time and removing the support the lower section of the mount bolts to in order to aid access.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 16,489
Likes: 25
From: USA. Northern Virginia
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 16,489
Likes: 25
From: USA. Northern Virginia
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
hydraulic mounts may be available. The operative word here is "may" . $$$
solid rubber mounts are readily available and FWIW checking out various websites, ricers, bimmers and porschers consider going from oem hydraulic mounts to solid rubber to be a performance upgrade.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 277
Likes: 8
From: Calgary Alberta
engine mounts
I have 2 1990 6 spd corvettes. 1 with a 427 (miniram)small block, the other with a 396 (superram).
I was looking at engine mounts when I was installing the engines. I happen to talk to ZF Doc, he recommended using the stock mounts but filling the space between the rubber and metal with urethane that is used for windshield installation.
I went with his recommendation and have had no issues. The mounts have withstood the torques of my stroker engines while racing with no issues
I was looking at engine mounts when I was installing the engines. I happen to talk to ZF Doc, he recommended using the stock mounts but filling the space between the rubber and metal with urethane that is used for windshield installation.
I went with his recommendation and have had no issues. The mounts have withstood the torques of my stroker engines while racing with no issues
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
I have 2 1990 6 spd corvettes. 1 with a 427 (miniram)small block, the other with a 396 (superram).
I was looking at engine mounts when I was installing the engines. I happen to talk to ZF Doc, he recommended using the stock mounts but filling the space between the rubber and metal with urethane that is used for windshield installation.
I went with his recommendation and have had no issues. The mounts have withstood the torques of my stroker engines while racing with no issues
I was looking at engine mounts when I was installing the engines. I happen to talk to ZF Doc, he recommended using the stock mounts but filling the space between the rubber and metal with urethane that is used for windshield installation.
I went with his recommendation and have had no issues. The mounts have withstood the torques of my stroker engines while racing with no issues
I respect ZFdoc's advice; I just don't see a lot of areas to be filled on an c4 LT mount...not compared to other mounts anyway.
Last edited by mtwoolford; Jan 16, 2017 at 01:06 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,290
Likes: 140
From: Salem NH
-- Joe
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 697
Likes: 30
From: Kansas City, Kansas
I didn't mean to imply that it was necessary, but in my case it was already out and made access much simpler.
I did another set earlier this week, but once again there was nothing in the way other than the block. To do the job with stock manifolds there, and only removing the two fasteners for the mount itself, the trick would be getting the engine high enough without crunching the wiring harness around the bellhousing. The proper precuations will have to be taken regardless of exact method, such as removing the radiator hoses, checking for exhaust clearances, etc. If there is not enough clearance gained that way, the three bolts fastening the mount bracket to the block would have to be removed.
I did another set earlier this week, but once again there was nothing in the way other than the block. To do the job with stock manifolds there, and only removing the two fasteners for the mount itself, the trick would be getting the engine high enough without crunching the wiring harness around the bellhousing. The proper precuations will have to be taken regardless of exact method, such as removing the radiator hoses, checking for exhaust clearances, etc. If there is not enough clearance gained that way, the three bolts fastening the mount bracket to the block would have to be removed.
Last edited by wikdwizard; Jan 20, 2017 at 01:30 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,290
Likes: 140
From: Salem NH
I didn't mean to imply that it was necessary, but in my case it was already out and made access much simpler.
I did another set earlier this week, but once again there was nothing in the way other than the block. To do the job with stock manifolds there, and only removing the two fasteners for the mount itself, the trick would be getting the engine high enough without crunching the wiring harness around the bellhousing. The proper precuations will have to be taken regardless of exact method, such as removing the radiator hoses, checking for exhaust clearances, etc. If there is not enough clearance gained that way, the three bolts fastening the mount bracket to the block would have to be removed.
I did another set earlier this week, but once again there was nothing in the way other than the block. To do the job with stock manifolds there, and only removing the two fasteners for the mount itself, the trick would be getting the engine high enough without crunching the wiring harness around the bellhousing. The proper precuations will have to be taken regardless of exact method, such as removing the radiator hoses, checking for exhaust clearances, etc. If there is not enough clearance gained that way, the three bolts fastening the mount bracket to the block would have to be removed.
-- Joe