C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Need Your Opinion-Oil leak

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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 08:03 AM
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Default Need Your Opinion-Oil leak

I know I have an oil leak on the front of the engine. It isn't bad but I want to fix it. Its not even enough if a leak to drip on the garage floor and it gets blown back on the car while driving. I'm suspecting the front china wall on the intake manifold.
Here's a few photos of what I found yesterday after removing the TB.
What's your opinion? Keep going and replace the intake manifold gaskets etc?
Thanks






I had already cleaned some of the mess prior to removing the TB.

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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 09:09 AM
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Good investigating. Yes it looks like the front china wall to me. It's not too invasive of a repair and even a novice mechanic can tackle the job in a couple hours. It's a breeze and almost enjoyable on an LT1 engine. Go for it and use permatex "The Right Stuff". I also dimpled both china walls with a center punch to give the RTV extra grab.
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by TorchTarga94
Good investigating. Yes it looks like the front china wall to me. It's not too invasive of a repair and even a novice mechanic can tackle the job in a couple hours. It's a breeze and almost enjoyable on an LT1 engine. Go for it and use permatex "The Right Stuff". I also dimpled both china walls with a center punch to give the RTV extra grab.
Thanks for the advice. I admit I'm a DIYer and your encouragement is welcome. The update: I put a torque wrench on the manifold bolts. Most of the manifold bolts were well below spec and the front driver side was actually only finger tight. I'm going to go ahead and replace the gaskets etc.
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 11:33 AM
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Sounds like a good idea and its an easy job. The Fel Pro kit will include new injector O-Rings. For the fuel rail just unbolt the 4 bolts, gently pull up, and flip the fuel rail over on the windshield (place a towel first), then its all straight forward and easy after that. Grab a couple cans of brake clean and spray everything off real clean before disassembly

I did this back in 2012 and have been bone dry since. Infact, my LT1 is pretty clean (for being an LT1), really no seepage/leaks.
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 05:17 PM
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Man, you don't know oil leaks.

Clean that up with some Gunk and paper towels.
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 07:17 AM
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Looks like belt dust to me.


My '92 has a minor leak at the rear of the intake manifold. I get a less than a dime sized drop on the garage floor after driving. I've got 1500 miles on the oil change and can't see a level drop on the dipstick.


I'll replace the intake gasket one day but I'm in no hurry right now.
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 11:11 AM
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add florescent oil dye to be sure. Myself I would not mess with it if it doesn't drip. Road film can come from other sources.

Last edited by Kevova; Dec 15, 2016 at 12:36 PM.
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevova
add florescent oil dye to be sure. Myself I would mess with it if it doesn't drip. Road film can come from other sources.
Clean up thoroughly with brake cleaner and/or engine degreaser first. Otherwise X2
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevova
add florescent oil dye to be sure. Myself I would mess with it if it doesn't drip. Road film can come from other sources.
also. How long has it been since you cleaned in that area? I'd bet a long time. That isn't a lot of oil for the time that it's been allowed to collect, I'm betting. I'd clean it good, torque the intake bolts, run and re-check in a month.
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by TorchTarga94
Good investigating. Yes it looks like the front china wall to me. It's not too invasive of a repair and even a novice mechanic can tackle the job in a couple hours. It's a breeze and almost enjoyable on an LT1 engine. Go for it and use permatex "The Right Stuff". I also dimpled both china walls with a center punch to give the RTV extra grab.
Good time to check the oil sensors at the rear of the intake, not real expensive and a lot easier to change while intake out. The Right Stuff works great. Also if the water pump hasn't been changed good time to do that, the oil seal behind the pump can also leak, so change that if you do the pump. Take your time and clean everything really well.
Here's a photo of what the the top of the block looks like with the intake off, plus the oil seal behind the pump.





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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 04:39 PM
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Default Update- Oil Leak

Thanks all, for the replies and advice. The oil leak was minor but it bugged me anyway. My OCD got the best of me so I went ahead with the job. I mentioned that I found the front bolt on the drivers side to be finger tight and most others not torqued to spec. So that was the source of the leak. Oil seeped under the china wall rtv right in that corner. So the manifold and engine is all cleaned up and I reassembled it. Will put everything back together tomorrow. In the meantime, I changed out the o-rings on the injectors. Saw no need to change the injectors since the engine ran well. I also bypassed the coolant lines from the TB and installed new upper/lower hoses.
All for now.







[/QUOTE]

Last edited by Drifter36; Dec 15, 2016 at 04:42 PM.
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 04:49 PM
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I'd have sent the injectors for cleaning. They always run fine according to the SOTP dyno until they are so screwed up that they cannot. The injectors get dirty slowly over time and it is hardly noticeable.
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
I'd have sent the injectors for cleaning. They always run fine according to the SOTP dyno until they are so screwed up that they cannot. The injectors get dirty slowly over time and it is hardly noticeable.
Is cleaning worth the effort and cost or should I just change out these original injectors? They are still sitting on the bench and the car is holed up now for the winter. The car has 33k on the clock.

Last edited by Drifter36; Dec 15, 2016 at 05:32 PM. Reason: Update
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Drifter36
Is cleaning worth the effort and cost or should I just change out these original injectors? They are still sitting on the bench and the car is holed up now for the winter. The car has 33k on the clock.
In the time the car sat, varnish can build up. Is your injector set a Multec set? Hard to say without looking at the things. If they are Multec injectors, toss them and get a set of reman Bosch from FIC. If they are not, send them there for cleaning and testing. Look at test results and it probably will show improvement but because the ECM can compensate, you won't see or feel anything without being able to read data
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
In the time the car sat, varnish can build up. Is your injector set a Multec set? Hard to say without looking at the things. If they are Multec injectors, toss them and get a set of reman Bosch from FIC. If they are not, send them there for cleaning and testing. Look at test results and it probably will show improvement but because the ECM can compensate, you won't see or feel anything without being able to read data
Thanks
Yes they are Multec. I'll check out FIC.
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Drifter36
Thanks
Yes they are Multec. I'll check out FIC.
Since you have an LT1 with Multecs, toss them and get something rebuilt HERE. Before you do, give Jon a call tomorrow and ask what a 94 LT1 has.
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Since you have an LT1 with Multecs, toss them and get something rebuilt HERE. Before you do, give Jon a call tomorrow and ask what a 94 LT1 has.
Spoke to Bob at FIC
He confirmed that the reman Bosch 3/24 will fit the LT1. So they are sending me a set. Good folks to deal with. The videos on their website give good info for home mechanics like me. Thanks for the tip, Aklim
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