Just checking to see if im about to do things the right way. Have a 1985 appears to be stock, was in a probate for a while so it sat for over a year in storage. Replaced all vaccum lines and several other things, all and all runs well starts runs with power etc. Was looking to do a tune up and noticed the bolt holding the distributor down was not tight, distributor could be twisted. Got my timing light out, could not see the mark on the balancer. Of course found that the balancer had separated, and backed toward the timing cover. Still seem to run ok. of course I know i will replace the Harmonic balancer. Reading here, it seems that a Lislie Harmonic balancer puller has the right length bolt for the clearance. Will remove serpentine belt to make more room, loosen and maybe move the fluid line to the steering unit. I have enough time, no hurry, would it make it possible to use an impact wrench on the center bolt if i remove the radiator and shroud assembly. Will also rent or get a installer to put new balancer back on.Ive read the write ups, IM getting older so the easier the better so if taking the rad out makes for more clearance, im game for it

 

Hi

No need to remove radiator or fan, a harmonic balancer removal tool will work fine just bolt to the 3 threads on the inner balancer hub.
Then remove balancer and fit the new one, check the timing case cover the balancer ring can wear a hole in it very quickly.

Removing the tensioner gives you room to work.

 

I rented the tools from autozone and it is important to have the press tool with a spinning bearing to eliminate friction upon pressing while wrenching the balancer back on. Put some tranny fluid to lube things up. Also the puller should fit exact between the PS line but don't rub a hole thru it or press against it. Good Luck

 

Just as an update, got the new balancer. Ive decided i am going to pull the radiator and condenser. I know its not completely necessary, but car is new and unknown history so I am sure cleaning the area hidden by the pleneum cant hurt, and its one of the perks of being retired, got time. Being Ill be this far, any suggestions as to what else i should ,might do while i have it with better open access from the front. Timing cover does not leak nor the seal, new balancer should keep that in good shape. Other question i have is I will rent a Harmonic Balancer Installer and puller. When I install , how far does the balancer go or should i just make sure pulleys line up, will use new bolt of course.

 

I don't know what you've purchased for a replacement BUT I might have considered a rebuild of the OE since you mentioned maybe "no rush". You do want to confirm the indexing of the after-market that you've purchased or maybe reconsider, return it and do a rebuild. There's a few vendors - I've a friend who has used Dale Manufacturing a couple times and was quite happy.

The rebuild isn't a monetary savings approach but a "quality" approach I'd think. As popular as the L98 balancer (GM# 6272221) is most vendors might have exchanges available. I believe correct timing mark placement for that balancer is 10° before center of the key-way slot. You might want to research that spec.

A correct balancer will be flush and correctly placed when washer/bolt is secured.

Your comments "hint" that maybe you don't intend on a seal replacement. Rethink that for sure.

 

Will replace timing cover seal, just need to be careful prying it out so as not to bend lip of cover. I did just get an OE replacement balancer, I will compare marks and size carefully to that which i am replacing, and static time TDC so i can see if things look reasonable. Thank you

 

I cant seem to find torque specs for the balancer bolt on my 1985 L98. Seemed toi find for LT1s. I will be renting a installer. What i have read says get the new balancer started, then use the old bolt, torque to 240 ft lbs. Remove that bolt put new bolt on with red loctite, torque to 37 ft lbs, then 140 degrees beyond that. Have a Mr Gasket grade 8 bolt, dorman balancer.

 

I'm accustomed to seeing 60 lb. ft. for balancer on earlier SBC and maybe as high as 80 lb. ft. for later L98. Your 37 lb. ft. reference seems to be for the 3 pulley bolts and the 140° I'm not familiar with.

Your #'s seem very different from what I'd expect and there's absolutely no similarity to the earlier SBC and an LT1 if you're attempting/comparing those when discussing balancer.

 

RED locktight?

 

You don't want to do that
My manual states(and I did it this way)

Remove HB bolt (first loosen 3 pully bolts)
remove pully
Use puller to pull of HB(it is a SLOW process)
Tip I learned here pull the seal to have more ply in timing cover)
After timing cover is back and seal in
Lube inside of balancer with tranny oil
press on with tool and make sure the tool is threaded in
with the correct unit or you may damage the inside of crankshaft.
I pressed on all the way(at that point it was lined up.
No switching bolts or anything like that.
Install pully
crank nut to 60 ft pounds per manual.

 

Maybe im just getting confused by searching. Your instructions sound straight forward, ill follow them. Thanks to all. Have a blessed christmas

 

Just a quick follow up. Did the balancer today. Followed the clear instructions given above Thanks. I did take the radiator and condenser out which allowed me to use an impact wrench on the Bolt, came right out, didn't need to worry about locking the engine from turning. Radiator on this 85 was very easy to remove. Replaced the timing cover seal while i was at it. Got a loaner Puller and Installer from Advance Auto, worked perfectly. Entire job took 2 to 3 hours, thanks for all the advice and hints. Next job are the valve cover gaskets