C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Loss of HP

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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 01:04 PM
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Default Loss of HP

Hello. I recently got an 85 corvette and it runs great but I feel some power loss when accelerating. During idle sometimes it would make a rattling noise. And when I accelerate the noise goes away but comes back and I feel the engine losing power. I recently changed the pvc and the maf sensor. Need help. Keep losing to hondas👎
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 03:35 PM
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I honestly don't place any faith in the Seat Of the Pants dyno. It is really hard to know what is going on. If you suspect anything, you probably need to check and see if there is some issue or not. You need to make sure the fuel pressure is right and there has to be no air leaks and everything is functioning as it should be. Also, that noise could be something breaking or not working right and it can cause the ECM to retard timing which cuts power. Probably have to get someone to scan it and see what the knock counts are for a regular motor and what your's is. How are the plugs, wires, coil, injectors?
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 04:31 PM
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Plugs and wires are new also but injectors and coil seem to be working fine other than the rattling noise. Before I got it, The car sat for ten years and has only been driven twice. When the rattling starts I can feel the power loss and it's pretty noticeable because when in full throttle it would launch pretty fast and at a high rpm the rattling would start and the RPMs stay the same. Then when the noise goes away it regains the hp loss. I can hear the noise over my loud exhaust. And it's comes from around the intake area and when I place my hand on the intake manifold I can feel the rattling.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 04:38 PM
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I would also start with checking the fuel pressure and vacuum leaks. And after sitting ten years I would not be driving it hard.

Last edited by antfarmer2; Jan 23, 2017 at 04:40 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Alexis Contreras
Plugs and wires are new also but injectors and coil seem to be working fine other than the rattling noise. Before I got it, The car sat for ten years and has only been driven twice. When the rattling starts I can feel the power loss and it's pretty noticeable because when in full throttle it would launch pretty fast and at a high rpm the rattling would start and the RPMs stay the same. Then when the noise goes away it regains the hp loss. I can hear the noise over my loud exhaust. And it's comes from around the intake area and when I place my hand on the intake manifold I can feel the rattling.
How did you determine injectors and coil is good? Rattling could be knocking because the injectors are clogged up or spraying bad. Coil you would have to see if the plugs get a blue flame.

I would scan it and see if there is excessive knocking since that can retard timing and power.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 07:04 PM
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The knocking is causing the knock sensors to retard the ignition. That noise causes great power loss. You need to figure out that noise. Spark knock, loose rockers, ect.
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
The knocking is causing the knock sensors to retard the ignition. That noise causes great power loss. You need to figure out that noise. Spark knock, loose rockers, ect.
I would scan it since I think the KS will only regard certain frequencies as knocking.

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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 12:48 AM
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You also need to start at #1 set base timing. If it is off it will knock when it should not be.
Then do a idle adjust. They can be found somewhere here. Mabey a bad knock sensor also. Good luck

Last edited by xrav22; Jan 24, 2017 at 12:49 AM.
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 06:59 AM
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Hell, just unplug the knock sensor and see if it changes. Then start looking for the problem.
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by xrav22
You also need to start at #1 set base timing. If it is off it will knock when it should not be.

Then do a idle adjust. They can be found somewhere here.

Mabey a bad knock sensor also. Good luck
Good point. I'd also get the timing light to see if it is even going up when it is revved. Also see if the harmonic balancer is slipping around and not giving an accurate timing value.

Better hold off on that one since we aren't having idle issues. Besides, the procedure is kinda stupid since it only works IF everything is within spec. IOW, it assumes much, knows little. If he has to set it, I would clean the TB (remove IAC, IAC housing and top plate, flush all passages), fresh gaskets and set with scanner.

Hard to say but if it doesn't give any input, the ECM will note it is bad so that might not say much. I would say a scanner will help.
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 01:26 PM
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Not that it has any bearing on the problem but what prompted the MAF sensor replacement? Did these symptoms show up directly after that or were they present before?
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 12:56 PM
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well I changed the maf sensor because it bogged down after 2k rpms and wouldn't move faster. After I changed it, everything was running strong until a couple days passed and I started hearing the noise. I've done a full tune up and nothing has changed but I noticed that cylinders 2 and 6 have a steel sleeve for the spark plug. I dont know if that affected anything because they were a bit loose. But now it revvs up and down during idle
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Alexis Contreras
well I changed the maf sensor because it bogged down after 2k rpms and wouldn't move faster. After I changed it, everything was running strong until a couple days passed and I started hearing the noise. I've done a full tune up and nothing has changed but I noticed that cylinders 2 and 6 have a steel sleeve for the spark plug. I dont know if that affected anything because they were a bit loose. But now it revvs up and down during idle
Did you run with the MAF unplugged? Supposedly it forces the ECM into going off the table and if it works, probably MAF. Were you getting improbable reading with the scanner?

Probably someone stripped the threads and helicore was done. Check compression and fuel pressure especially at WOT
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 06:57 PM
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Well I finally got everything checked out and the distributor cap might be broken because when I put my hand next to it, it shocked the crap out of my hand. Compression is good. Got the injectors checked out by a mechanics shop. They told me the rattling may have just been the spark jumping to something metal.

Last edited by Alexis Contreras; Feb 2, 2017 at 06:59 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 06:58 PM
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Wondering why. Just old age or you broke it?
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 08:00 PM
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Be careful that's high voltage. I have new wires and they need to be manipulated because I saw a spark from distributor to wire between 1 and 2 then I read to make sure they are separated nicely. No more sparks.
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 08:04 PM
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Dielectric grease?
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Old Feb 6, 2017 | 10:58 PM
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Sounds like your catalytic converter came apart/broke apart and is rattling and plugging up your exhaust causing poor acceleration.

Last edited by touyech2883; Feb 6, 2017 at 11:00 PM.
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Old Feb 6, 2017 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by touyech2883
Sounds like your catalytic converter came apart and is rattling and plugging up your exhaust causing poor acceleration.
Possibly but if he is getting shocked touching the cap, something is wrong there.
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