i have my 85 c-4 tune port number one piston at tdc and the rotor button on number 1 plug wire in the cap, but the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is at 7 oclock and the timing gauge on the timming cover is at 2 oclock so i know i spun the balancer and it slid back against the timing cover, will that make it why its popping in my throttle body and not want to idle and run rough?

 

Buy a new balancer and change it, My 84 did the same, spun and was against the timimg cover like yours. I found that dorman company makes a direct fit new balancer for $48 at auto zone. I was able to change my in the car using my mac tool balancer puller after removing the air pump pulley, water pump pulley. And after a little blood, sweet, band aids and two hours of determination, I was done with the repair. I also found that the balancer installing tool that O'Rielly auto has in there loan a tool program was perfect to install the new one with the limited space to work.
As for your back fire in the intake, I would get the balancer changed, verify that the timimg is in spec. And go from there JMO

 

Yes it is separated and will wear a hole in your cover fix it and drive on.

 

does the 1985 L98 tune port have a crank sensor on it?

 

does the 85 tune port have a crank sensor on it

 

No.

 

Food for thought. Before I pulled my old balancer,I pulled dist cap and pugs, roll engine by hand clock wise until the electrode end of the rotor was pointing to area that I could see from where in had to stand (drivers side of car} to turn the crank.
I than on the counter clock wise rotation side of the rotor set up a preloaded dial indicator, also mark the balancer using the factory TBC mark, witch is the biggest cut out in the timing tab on the timing cover. Don't move the crank, make shore you can see the dial indicator while slowly turning the crank shaft counter clock wise by hand until you see the slightest movement of the needle on the dial indicator. Now look at your crank mark.
I do this test to get a good idea of what my timing chain backlash is. If excessive, it can be a tuning headache, under load valve timing is retarded and advanced under engine deceleration also causing ing timing flutter.
If you think you got excessive back lash, nows the time to get a good upstretched chain and gears back into your engine because you are changing the balancer. And to me that's half the fight of getting good cam timing back into the engine. JMO

 

my motor only has 34k miles on it the chain is tite but the day i spun the balancer is when it started the popping in the throttle body and rough running at low rpm and not idling but if you hold it down above 1600 rpms it runs good but wants to fall off i have change the tps,electronic spark control module and water temp sensor i pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it all out and that big square sensor that goes in the bottom of it im lost on that part of it all

 

Do you have a emc that is in working order, meaning with the key on engine not running the check engine light should be lit. Start the engine and the light should go out. Now check for trouble codes, are there any trouble codes stored??????????

 

FYI If you don't already have one Rock Auto .com sells a reprint of the factor service manual for $48 plus shipping. I found my to be the best investment I have made for working on drivability and ecm problems JMO

 

There is no physical connection between the condition of the 1985 factory balancer setup and the actual running of the engine. A "spun" balancer can cause collateral damage and the inability to properly time the engine, but cannot inherently cause the engine to run poorly. Just coincidence that the two things happened together unless the spun balancer was used to time the engine.