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Posted in my misfire thread but thought this might warrant another thread.
Previous owner installed aftermarket exhaust and did not install the O2 sensor! I'm trying to install it but want to know where it needs to go. How exact is the placement? I know it goes drivers side, before the catalytic converter. This exhaust doesn't have catalytic converters, it's just straight pipe with resonators. Can someone help me figure out where to place? Thank you!
I think this is the O2 sensor but it looks busted.
You can see the aftermarket exhaust going down here. This is the drivers side.
You should be able to buy the bung required "locally" - you shouldn't need to order anything that requires paying shipping.
You need to look for a PURPLE WIRE - it should be in the conduit @ the left side of engine where the OIL TEMP wire, COOLANT TEMP wire etc is routed. That's of course if the PO didn't modify all of that either.
You should be able to buy the bung required "locally" - you shouldn't need to order anything that requires paying shipping.
I've already bought the O2 sensor, I'll probably just take that down to my local exhaust shop and let them install. I'm pretty sure they'll have everything else required.
I've already bought the O2 sensor, I'll probably just take that down to my local exhaust shop and let them install. I'm pretty sure they'll have everything else required.
Sensor or the bung? Any chance of an exchange of sensor to the heated ones?
Also, they make o2 wire extensions if you need one. Push come to shove, you can always go to a junk yard and get a short piece of exhaust that can be welded into yours.
Oh. I already bought one, I don't think it's a heated one, but honestly it rarely gets cold where I live...
The purpose of the heated O2 is so that the engine doesn't drop out of closed loop (where the ECM reads the O2 voltage input to adjust fuel) and into open loop (where it reads Coolant temp and a pre-programmed table). Open loop makes it run richer and use more fuel.
The cats keep the heat in the pipes better so the sensor doesn't get too cool. (cold is relative) It doesn't matter how hot it is in your area. Mine drops out at idle in Alabama summer sometimes.
Its not a requirement to put it in, and I doubt it'll make much difference for you unless the motor is heavily modded, but if youre doing one then it can't hurt.
The purpose of the heated O2 is so that the engine doesn't drop out of closed loop (where the ECM reads the O2 voltage input to adjust fuel) and into open loop (where it reads Coolant temp and a pre-programmed table). Open loop makes it run richer and use more fuel.
The cats keep the heat in the pipes better so the sensor doesn't get too cool. (cold is relative) It doesn't matter how hot it is in your area. Mine drops out at idle in Alabama summer sometimes.
Its not a requirement to put it in, and I doubt it'll make much difference for you unless the motor is heavily modded, but if youre doing one then it can't hurt.
If I hadn't already ordered it, I would get a heated one. Thanks for the advice though, if I continue to have issues, I will possibly replace. it's a cheap part.
The cats keep the heat in the pipes better so the sensor doesn't get too cool. (cold is relative) It doesn't matter how hot it is in your area. Mine drops out at idle in Alabama summer sometimes.
Its not a requirement to put it in, and I doubt it'll make much difference for you unless the motor is heavily modded, but if youre doing one then it can't hurt.
I agree with you but since he needs an O2 bung, I have a sneaky suspicion they took out the cats and maybe cheap headers.
From the pics, the exhaust manifold look to be a stock one. If the "aftermarket exhaust" is simply a Y-pipe without the pre-cats, the O2 sensor should still be put in the OEM location. That would be on the driver's side about 2-3 inches below where the pipe attaches to the manifold. Any good muffler shop should be able to drop the Y-pipe and weld in an O2 sensor bung.
I don't think a heated O2 sensor would make any improvement. To install one, the OP would need to find a switched 12v source to provide power and a wire from that heated sensor to a good ground. The C4 never had a heated sensor, so it would take some searching to come up with a sensor that would thread into the bung and work like a GM regular sensor.