jimmers

I'm going to be starting some spring work on my '90 and just wanted to make sure I get everything I need. I'm going to replace the bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks, wheel bearings and do the Banski rear end.

I was going to get the Energy Suspension 318122G kit and add the sway bar bushings separate. Will that cover all the bushings I need? If I go with the Banski setup I'm assuming that will eliminate the need for some bushings in the kit? Best to buy the bushings separate in that case?

Thanks!

Lt4-396

If you go the banski full kit you only have the batwing, sway bar and spring bushings so either buy individual or buy the kit then sell it off somewhere. You need to figure the cost of what you need and cost of the full kit. If it's pretty close in price I would buy the kit and sell the stuff you don't use and pass along the savings.

Also use the graphite impregnated poly bushings.

hcbph

Depending on how much of the Banski kits you can get, they involve the trailing arms, camber rods and if you can find them the toe rods (or look at the Van Steel kit if you can't get Banski's). You can forget bushings on all those. You'll still want the sway bar bushings, spring, bat wing etc in back.

I did do one thing when mounting mine. I drilled all the bolts for cotter keys and used castle nuts so they'll never come loose on their own.

jimmers

Thanks! I plan on getting the black bushings which I read are graphite impregnated.

jimmers

Thanks that's exactly the info I was looking for.
I've never done suspension work to this extent before, so I hope I'm not biting off more then I can chew!

hcbph

The Banski kit was not hard to do, just take your time and be systematic in your work. I will tell you one area to watch if you do them: the camber rods. I have one of the kits with the 2 size cones in it and I found 2 issues. First is measure the opening on the knuckle before starting. The kit was designed for a 1.7" opening, my knuckle was 1.64" so I had some mods to do to the cones (Spacers) to get the bottom end to fit. 2d is to new instructions Tom suggesting using a short alignment pin to keep it all aligned while inserting the bolt, that wasn't in the earlier instructions. I did tear 2 boots trying to force them in without a pin. 2 new boots, 2 pins and I was back in business after seeing the new instructions.

If you put on the Banski components, you'll like the results - I do. Worth the money IMO.

jimmers

Thanks!

hcbph

One more thing, when doing the trailing arms or camber rods, unhook the spring on the side you're working on. You don't want the knuckle being swung wildly when you take a part off.

Here's a thread that might help: http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=144562

It's for replacing the hubs but it does go into things like unhooking the end of the springs, camber rod etc so read through it and see if it makes sense to you. I used it back when I did my u-joints and went through the suspension. It definitely was a help in addition to the FSM.