Just wondering what people are driving everyday and if they wish they didn't have a high stall convertor while creeping through traffic, etc. I have a 2600 vigilante but haven't completed the new motor yet, so I haven't driven it . I'm just worried I may not like sounding like a race car rolling down the road at 30 mph.
What are you using and do you feel its too much, no big deal, etc.?

 

Well mine is not a daily driver but I am going to reply anyhow. Under light throttle, like in stop and go traffic I dont notice it. To me, when it is annoying is when im going about 25-35 mph and give it about half throttle and it revs up but dosnt seem as torquey as before. Im hoping once I get to the drag strip it will all be worth it.

 

Well maybe I shouldn't have said "daily". I'm just concerned with drivability when not in a race situation. I know the higher stall will be great for dusting people when needed.
So how do you all like cruising with the higher stall?

 

Get the Yank Stealth 2600 then. I have it in my car and it's barely noticeable. The only time you notice it is when you're at idle and you BURY the throttle. The tach INSTANTLY jumps up to 2600rpm and WHAM! you're off! (or in a cloud of smoke, one of the two) I got it and installed for a grand total of $600. Not a bad deal if you ask me. :cheers: My previous best 60' was a 1.9x, now I can cut a 1.7x all day long with drag radials.

 

I have a 2,400 stall speed, and can hardly tell a difference under normal driving. If I would have known this before hand, I would have gone with the 2,800 stall.

 

I wouldn't even worry about it. A 2600 should be very streetable. I have a 2400 and pull 1.7 60ft times with street tires. (no drag radials) I would have went with a 2800 if I would have known how mild the 2400 was. Most wouldn't know it was in my car if I didn't tell them. Good luck.

 

I dont think youll have any problems with that stall on the street. Its the monsters with high stall TCs and low rear gear ratios that might have trouble.

 

I've got a Yank 3000 and it's not even noticeable unless you want it to be. :D

 

This is an interesting post. It's not something that gets a lot of ink, but is probably on a lot of our minds. :yesnod:

 

I have a 2800 stall Vigilante with 3.45 gears, no problems whatsoever.

 

I have a 2600 stall and you'd never guess it wasn't stock under normal driving.

 

 

I've built cars with 3500 up to 4400 rpm covertors for "street" strip guys, and the only thing most of them say is "man when I drive normal, the car just revs and goes and keeps going next thing I know I'm running 55-60 mph and I didn't feel it shift"! Then when they actually stand on it, WOW! :D My 55 chevy pick-up had a 3800 rpm coan convertor, 4.88 gears, 28.5 dia. rear tire, fuuly manual turbo 400, behind a high winding tunnelramed 355. My best 1/4 was a 11.90@117.4, 60' 1.57! This truck was as aerodynamic as a house, and weighed 3765lbs empty! I never had any trans problems in 3 years of some serious abuse :D What I loved about it was I could put the trans in drive, and being a full manual valve body it would actually take off in drive. I'd get around a group of punk, and when I'd leave I'd put it in drive, roll out on the street and shi*can it. The rpms would flash up to about 4100 and it would stay there until it was going fast enough to continue climbing up, never having to shift all the way down the road. Then when I would run into those idiots again, they'd say "I never heard that truck shift, how'd you do that"? I tell them that it had the drivetrain from a dragster in it and it was a "high gear only" set up! You should have heard the rumours that started flying around after that! :lol: :lol: :cheers:

 

Mines a 2400 or a 2600, can't remember which.....but I can't tell any difference from stock in normal driving conditions.

But......what a difference when it launches... the tach just jumps to 3000 rpm :cheers: :cheers:

 

I have a ProTorque 2800 Lock Up unit in mine. You'll know a convertor is there when you're going up hills at lower speeds. The engine kind of drags a little..then it locks up and all is well.

You have to give something up to gain something....bottom line :)

 

JD, I don't understand what you are talking about. The convertor is more than likely unlocking as you go up the hill, or the tranny is shifting. :confused:

 

My GN use to be daily driven and had a 3600 stall non-lockup in it... wasn't bad at all and that car had 500 pounds on the vette.

 

when does the torque converter make the biggest difference?? I am still unsure what exactly it does.......... How much do the run and where can i pick one up?


[Modified by Wheelman, 10:56 AM 9/29/2002]

 

There are a lot of varialbles to consider. Check out these web sites. You should find the answer to any questions that you have.
http://protorque.com./ http://www.converter.cc/ http://xs-fx.com/raughammer/CONVERTER.HTM http://www.converter.com/

 

Hee Haw89, if it's a lockup TC it will realy wake up your ride and not even be noticible while cruzin.

I have a 2,000rpm GN TC in the Vette and think it's just right for launching on streets with an L98 and 2.59s.

I recommend a TransGo shift kit to sharpen up those shifts and a B&M governor recal kit to raise your shift points into the high 5,000rpm range. With your mods you likely need to shift close to 6,000rpm for best ETs. Get a copy of Drag2000, plug in your engine's torque curve and experiment with shift points parameter.

Wheelman, go read those references to get the basic tech stuff on TCs; my site has a link to Leve-10 which may have some additional info.

As shown in this thread, TC stall rpm makes the biggest difference on launch because the stall point determines where in the power band you will be on a hard launch.

There are several good brands and price varies quite a bit. I paid $225 for a custom 12" GN 2,000rpm lockup TC from Grant Transmission (phone number on my site); installation is usually around $250 as the exhaust and tranny must be dropped.



[Modified by 65Z01, 12:02 PM 9/29/2002]