still having battery drain
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
still having battery drain
Well, I thought I had found my draw on my battery but I was wrong. I am showing 1.2A drain and I have unplugged almost everything that has a connector, no change. If anyone has any ideas I sure would like to hear them. Tomorrow I plan on checking the battery itself and the starter even tho it seems to work great. I am at a complete loss as to what to try next.
Zen Vet Master Level VII
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 5,218
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From: Southlake, TX
Tedious, but the only way.
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 193
Likes: 8
From: West Islip NY
pull the 2 silver power accessory circuit breakers in the fuse panel, bet it goes away. one of them is for the power seats, there is a diode in the circuit somewhere by the seats that can cause a power drain. it was my problem. since I'm the only driver I set the seat where it needs to be and never had to put the breaker back in. solved my issue
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,431
Likes: 609
From: Minneapolis Mn
I had a power drain at one time in mine. Found it to be something was pushing down on the power seat button. Corrected that - problem gone.
Here's a couple of thing you can consider trying. Mine has a electrical lug under the battery tray where all the fusable links mount. I disconnected them all, then hooked them back up one at a time using jumper cables to hook the removed battery back up to the car and checked for the drain. That can help track down the main circuit that's the culprit.
Another is a tool I found at HF (thought I've seen them too on Ebay). You pull the fuses and circuit breakers out of the fuse panel one at a time. Insert the fuse into the tool and plug the tool into the fuse box where the fuse was. It will show any current draw on that circuit. The circuit breakers won't fit directly into the tool but it will work if you use some short jumpers.
Hope that helps.
Here's a couple of thing you can consider trying. Mine has a electrical lug under the battery tray where all the fusable links mount. I disconnected them all, then hooked them back up one at a time using jumper cables to hook the removed battery back up to the car and checked for the drain. That can help track down the main circuit that's the culprit.
Another is a tool I found at HF (thought I've seen them too on Ebay). You pull the fuses and circuit breakers out of the fuse panel one at a time. Insert the fuse into the tool and plug the tool into the fuse box where the fuse was. It will show any current draw on that circuit. The circuit breakers won't fit directly into the tool but it will work if you use some short jumpers.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by hcbph; Mar 23, 2017 at 06:13 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,413
Likes: 2,745
pull the 2 silver power accessory circuit breakers in the fuse panel, bet it goes away. one of them is for the power seats, there is a diode in the circuit somewhere by the seats that can cause a power drain. it was my problem. since I'm the only driver I set the seat where it needs to be and never had to put the breaker back in. solved my issue
I mentioned in your other thread that you don't have the "Jump Block" so fusible links are substantially more difficult. H/L motors & power antenna as Cliff mentioned. I believe there might have been suggestions in your older thread.
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
pull the 2 silver power accessory circuit breakers in the fuse panel, bet it goes away. one of them is for the power seats, there is a diode in the circuit somewhere by the seats that can cause a power drain. it was my problem. since I'm the only driver I set the seat where it needs to be and never had to put the breaker back in. solved my issue
I had a power drain at one time in mine. Found it to be something was pushing down on the power seat button. Corrected that - problem gone.
Here's a couple of thing you can consider trying. Mine has a electrical lug under the battery tray where all the fusable links mount. I disconnected them all, then hooked them back up one at a time using jumper cables to hook the removed battery back up to the car and checked for the drain. That can help track down the main circuit that's the culprit.
Another is a tool I found at HF (thought I've seen them too on Ebay). You pull the fuses and circuit breakers out of the fuse panel one at a time. Insert the fuse into the tool and plug the tool into the fuse box where the fuse was. It will show any current draw on that circuit. The circuit breakers won't fit directly into the tool but it will work if you use some short jumpers.
Hope that helps.
Here's a couple of thing you can consider trying. Mine has a electrical lug under the battery tray where all the fusable links mount. I disconnected them all, then hooked them back up one at a time using jumper cables to hook the removed battery back up to the car and checked for the drain. That can help track down the main circuit that's the culprit.
Another is a tool I found at HF (thought I've seen them too on Ebay). You pull the fuses and circuit breakers out of the fuse panel one at a time. Insert the fuse into the tool and plug the tool into the fuse box where the fuse was. It will show any current draw on that circuit. The circuit breakers won't fit directly into the tool but it will work if you use some short jumpers.
Hope that helps.
I like this as a first check in most cases.
I mentioned in your other thread that you don't have the "Jump Block" so fusible links are substantially more difficult. H/L motors & power antenna as Cliff mentioned. I believe there might have been suggestions in your older thread.
I mentioned in your other thread that you don't have the "Jump Block" so fusible links are substantially more difficult. H/L motors & power antenna as Cliff mentioned. I believe there might have been suggestions in your older thread.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
I pulled my horn relay tonight because my horns weren't working. Once I took the relay out the test light I had hooked in series to the negative battery cable/terminal went out. But I wanted to check the relay anyway so I hooked up with a test light to see if it was activating the horn circuit. I put power to it and it clicked and the light came on. I did this several times so I figured I must have a problem under the horn button. All I could find wrong was the ground wire that is attached to the horn button was only holding on by one or two strands of wire. Tomorrow I am going to get a new relay anyway and then put a new terminal end on the wire. Does it sound like my draw is fixed? I don't think so but you guys are much better with Corvette electricals than I will ever be.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,431
Likes: 609
From: Minneapolis Mn
it's possible. Once you've fixed your wire and relay, you can measure the amps between the negative cable and battery with everything off and see if the value changes. You should have some draw for the alarm etc but it should very small if everything is good IMO.
Good luck
Good luck
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
I plan on doing just that, there had been no use in using the multimeter before because the test light was always on. When I pulled the relay that light went out so I was ready to celebrate. Once I get the ground fixed and the new relay in place it will be time to get a true reading. I have left the radio fuse out so that does not affect the reading.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 550
From: Mission Viejo CA
I'll bet your horn relay was warm!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
Guys, I apologize for this one, I will explain later tomorrow. As you probably already know, I have an '85. Would someone please look at the schematic and tell where some wires go? On my starter solenoid there are 4 wires on the same big post as the positive battery cable is, not including the cable of course, I need to know where those other 4 smaller wires go to. Thank you and I will give a full explanation tomorrow.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,413
Likes: 2,745
Guys, I apologize for this one, I will explain later tomorrow. As you probably already know, I have an '85. Would someone please look at the schematic and tell where some wires go? On my starter solenoid there are 4 wires on the same big post as the positive battery cable is, not including the cable of course, I need to know where those other 4 smaller wires go to. Thank you and I will give a full explanation tomorrow.
I'm guessing that you maybe eliminated all of them and the draw went away? 4 wires but only 3 ring terminals likely. The ring terminal with 2 wires is (1) an alternator lead (2) the lead to the POWER ACCESSORY, IN-LINE HORN FUSE, BLOWER CONTROL etc
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 25, 2017 at 04:39 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
Those are fusible links that power nearly all other components. In your FSM go to POWER DISTRIBUTION and you'll be able to sort it.
I'm guessing that you maybe eliminated all of them and the draw went away? 4 wires but only 3 ring terminals likely. The ring terminal with 2 wires is (1) an alternator lead (2) the lead to the POWER ACCESSORY, IN-LINE HORN FUSE, BLOWER CONTROL etc
I'm guessing that you maybe eliminated all of them and the draw went away? 4 wires but only 3 ring terminals likely. The ring terminal with 2 wires is (1) an alternator lead (2) the lead to the POWER ACCESSORY, IN-LINE HORN FUSE, BLOWER CONTROL etc
Last edited by Midnight 85; Mar 25, 2017 at 08:04 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
Guys, I apologize for this one, I will explain later tomorrow. As you probably already know, I have an '85. Would someone please look at the schematic and tell where some wires go? On my starter solenoid there are 4 wires on the same big post as the positive battery cable is, not including the cable of course, I need to know where those other 4 smaller wires go to. Thank you and I will give a full explanation tomorrow.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,866
Likes: 60
From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
After dissecting almost every wire bundle on my car I can finally say I found the draw. I found 3 or 4 spots on various wires that were chafed pretty badly and a couple had frayed wire showing. This was all due to natural wear and tear on the harness from heat and vibration. My draw was 1.5A when I started and as of yesterday it is .0107. I had to completely open the plastic conduit and separate each wire until I found the problem, so much for the pull the fuses 'til it goes away theory. My advice to anyone faced with a similar situation, just go ahead and bite the bullet and start searching everything. I have wires and more wires that I need to re-tape up and place inside all new conduit.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 169
Likes: 15
From: Toledo Ohio
After dissecting almost every wire bundle on my car I can finally say I found the draw. I found 3 or 4 spots on various wires that were chafed pretty badly and a couple had frayed wire showing. This was all due to natural wear and tear on the harness from heat and vibration. My draw was 1.5A when I started and as of yesterday it is .0107. I had to completely open the plastic conduit and separate each wire until I found the problem, so much for the pull the fuses 'til it goes away theory. My advice to anyone faced with a similar situation, just go ahead and bite the bullet and start searching everything. I have wires and more wires that I need to re-tape up and place inside all new conduit.