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95 A4 that cranks but will not start.

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Old 04-08-2017, 09:46 PM
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RRT vette
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Default 95 A4 that cranks but will not start.

Hello everyone, this car was a daily driver in my younger years before kids. It drove fine up to about 6 years ago. The car has about 54K miles and stock. It started with a idle miss when I came to a stop light. Then the water pump started leaking pretty good. The car sat for years.

About 3 years ago and the car would not start. Found out the fuel pump was done. I pulled it out and it was trashed. I replaced the pump and it ran again. It had a miss in drive while at stop lights and there was a coolant leak from the water pump. So, I replaced the water pump (A.C. Delco), spark plugs (NGK) and wires with (Taylor's), And also the distributor cap (MSD). It stared up and ran fine. I let it sit again til last month.

I go to start it up and no fuel pressure. Pulled the fuel pump assembly and it was almost rusted into. There was tons of varnish in the tank that smelt like paint thinner. I cleaned the tank out to almost new. I put a used assembly and new AC Delco pump and put back in it with a new gasket and bolt o-rings. Put new gas in and flushed the lines til all the brown gas was clean. I have 40 psi fuel pressure and it wants to start for about a second put never does.

I don't have any codes. My guess is the injectors are gummed up but looking for suggestions. Thanks.
Old 04-08-2017, 11:11 PM
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hemivett
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
, And also the distributor cap (MSD).
95? Doesn't that have an opti? Especially if you had a water pump leak, your opti is probably toast! Have you checked for spark? Ive even seen optis only work sometimes when they are going bad. After that, I would look at the cam, and crank sensors. h
Old 04-08-2017, 11:20 PM
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RRT vette
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Yes it has and opti spark distributor. It was running fine after I replaced the water pump and opti cap. Then it sat for years. I was thinking it might be the opti spark but I don't have any codes. I didn't have time today to check for spark, but it will be on my list maybe tomorrow. I will let you know.
Old 04-09-2017, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
Yes it has and opti spark distributor. It was running fine after I replaced the water pump and opti cap. Then it sat for years. I was thinking it might be the opti spark but I don't have any codes. I didn't have time today to check for spark, but it will be on my list maybe tomorrow. I will let you know.
Ya, if you had any kind of leak coming from your water pump, it's almost a garauntee the option will go. I've even heard of them going if you go through to big of a puddle. h
Old 04-09-2017, 01:18 AM
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Guys, he said that he replaced the opti after the water pump leak.

OP if you want to know if the injectors are firing, pull plugs. See if they're wet. OR, charge the fuel pump, check fuel pressure drop. If it holds pretty good, like it ought to, then disable fuel pump and crank -watch fuel pressure. if it drops, injectors are firing.
Old 04-09-2017, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
Yes it has and opti spark distributor. It was running fine after I replaced the water pump and opti cap.
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Guys, he said that he replaced the opti after the water pump leak.
He said he replaced the "opti cap"???? Does he mean the whole unit, or is there some sort of "cap" I always thought it was a sealed unit? h
Old 04-09-2017, 01:18 PM
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You are right. I read it, but didn't "see" the cap part. Reading comprehension.

Yes, you can change just the cap/rotor, just like a conventional distributor.

So yeah, it could be the opti.

Some diagnostics are in order.


.

Last edited by Tom400CFI; 04-09-2017 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 04-09-2017, 03:14 PM
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On that no start, plug in a noid light to a fuel injector connector. If no flashes when cranking, bad opti. You could also take the ICM to get tested.
Old 04-09-2017, 05:59 PM
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Yes guys, I replaced the rotor and cap. I pulled 3 plugs (easy ones) and checked them out. They all three look normal and dry. I held one off the exhaust manifold and have good strong spark. Checked the other 5 with my timing light and it lights up like it should. One thing I noticed today was the fuel pressure dropping to 0 within 3 minutes or less. Wonder if it's returning to the tank or leaking thru the injectors? I do remembering the fuel pressure should hold for awhile.
Old 04-09-2017, 06:10 PM
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Shoot some fluid in it I bet it fires. Then call Jon at FIC and get some bocsh 3 and pull the vacuum line of the FPR and smell for fuel.
Old 04-09-2017, 06:12 PM
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FPR vac is dry. Also the 3 plugs where dry after I attempted to start it as well.
Old 04-09-2017, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Shoot some fluid in it I bet it fires. Then call Jon at FIC and get some bocsh 3 and pull the vacuum line of the FPR and smell for fuel.
Oh, yeah it will run as long as I'm shooting starting fluid in the TB.
Old 04-09-2017, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
Oh, yeah it will run as long as I'm shooting starting fluid in the TB.
Then get a noid light free from from the part store. If they light up I would bet on sticky injectors. If they don't check your injector fuses first.

Easy on the fluid test only.

Last edited by antfarmer2; 04-09-2017 at 06:20 PM.
Old 04-09-2017, 08:59 PM
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Check the coil fuse as well.

EDIT

My bad. That doesn't make sense because it starts with fluid.

Last edited by 1993C4LT1; 04-09-2017 at 09:02 PM.
Old 04-10-2017, 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1
Check the coil fuse as well.

EDIT

My bad. That doesn't make sense because it starts with fluid.
If it runs on the fluid, 9 chances out of 10 your injectors are bad. If it sat for any length of time without fuel stabilizer, I would virtually garauntee it. I run stabil in mine all winter, just cause I never know how long it will sit. h
Old 04-10-2017, 10:33 AM
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I'm going to try and run by the parts store to rent a noid light may be this evening. I use to have one but couldn't find it. Probably be a few days before I have time to check them but I will report back.
Old 04-10-2017, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
I'm going to try and run by the parts store to rent a noid light may be this evening. I use to have one but couldn't find it. Probably be a few days before I have time to check them but I will report back.
All a noid light will do is tell you if they are firing. Not the condition of the injector. They could test fine, and only be dripping fuel. Also your regulator is probably in the same shape, the rubber has parished. That's why it only holds pressure for a few seconds. When I put a gauge on mine, it will still read something the next day. h

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Old 04-10-2017, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by hemivett
All a noid light will do is tell you if they are firing. Not the condition of the injector. They could test fine, and only be dripping fuel. Also your regulator is probably in the same shape, the rubber has parished. That's why it only holds pressure for a few seconds. When I put a gauge on mine, it will still read something the next day. h
Yes, I'm going to make sure the connectors are sending voltage before buying injectors.
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Old 04-12-2017, 07:09 PM
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Ok, I just wanted to mention that I did remove the fuel rail and injectors previously. I cleaned out the inside of the rail with carb cleaner due to the brown gas what was inside. I inspected the injectors and they looked fine for how old they are. No build up or trash...just a little rust on the tips. All the o-rings were in good shape.

I cleared the fuel line by catching the gas from the feed line that connects to the fuel rail. It took about 45 minutes priming the fuel pump over and over but did eventually get clean looking gas (probably doesn't matter but the fuel filter was replaced about 5 years ago with less than 100 miles on it.). My FPR vac line is dry. I pinched off the return line at the tank to eliminate the check valve and the pressure still drops almost instantly. The plugs I pulled were dry.

I connected the noid light to all 8 connectors and have light pulses on all. I'm wondering if a few of the injectors are stuck open on some of the cylinders I didn't pull the plugs on.
Old 04-12-2017, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by RRT vette
I cleaned out the inside of the rail with carb cleaner due to the brown gas what was inside. It took about 45 minutes priming the fuel pump over and over but did eventually get clean looking gas (probably doesn't matter but the fuel filter was replaced about 5 years ago
Change your fuel filter. Change your fuel filter. Change your fuel filter.


Originally Posted by RRT vette
I inspected the injectors and they looked fine for how old they are. No build up or trash...just a little rust on the tips.
You can't "see" dirty of clogged injectors...but "a little rust on the tips" is no good, IMO. The fact that you can see any contamination (rust) w/the naked eye would be enough for me to get new injectors.



Originally Posted by RRT vette
The plugs I pulled were dry.
I connected the noid light to all 8 connectors and have light pulses on all. I'm wondering if a few of the injectors are stuck open on some of the cylinders I didn't pull the plugs on.
I'd say your injectors are stuck closed. You have no evidence of them being stuck open (no fuel smell, no black smoke out the exhaust, no firing of the cylinders at all)...but you have plenty of evidence that the engine isn't getting fuel (but plugs are dry). The fuel pressure drop could be injectors, but it could also be the fuel pump check valve.


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