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Have heads done (ported etc.) and intake manifold matched to heads
52mm throttle body
AFPR might be needed
I think to beat Vipers and Z06's you will have to spend more, very likely NOS in addition to above. Or a super charger but NOS would be cheaper and your engine might last longer on occasional NOS spraying as opposed to being on boost all the time.
A different approach, but it certainly works. In the end I'm gonna have 4.10's anyway and probably do some suspension work too. It's all a mater of what you feel is most important.
My Service Ride Control light that was on when I bought the car, still on. So you know the philosophy that I took :D
It's also my goal to make a Viper/Z06 killer, but IMHO, to hammer a Viper or ZO6, it'll take more than an engine. I feel it's important to have a chassis that can handle the power, I expected my Vette to handle like it's on rails. With the stock suspension I really hated all the body lean in the corners. I just didn't feel the stock suspension was up the stock HP, much less 360 RWHP.
I've got the HOT cam in my basement, getting ready to purchase some long tubes (the Exotic Muscle stainless are looking good). If the economy picks up a littie, I'll have my heads ported, otherwise I'll stop at the cam/long tubes and wait a year for new heads.
If he can do all the work himself, he can make a ZO6 beater for $3.5 grand, but if he's paying labor, I'm betting it'll be closer to $6,000-7,000.
It's also my goal to make a Viper/Z06 killer, but IMHO, to hammer a Viper or ZO6, it'll take more than an engine.
Absolutely. Ideally you have everything, the engine and the suspension. I believe though that doing one or the other first does not affect doing the other. So it's a matter of what you feel is more important. I'm of the impression that my car handles very well for as far as I feel comfortable driving it. So I decided to go the power route first. If you feel like the car is soft or whatnot then for you reworking the suspension is probably your best bet. It's all in what you feel comfortable with.
I don't have the money to do both at once, most of us don't, I wish I did. That's just what I'm trying to say. I felt more comfortable applying more power to the road and just driving moderately. If you feel like driving more aggressively with your current power, go for that first!
That's all I mean by "different approach" In the end we all want the same thing, it's just the route we choose to get there.
That's all I mean by "different approach" In the end we all want the same thing, it's just the route we choose to get there.
Nathan,
No offense taken, I agree with you 100%. I have to admit it took me a few years to get used to my LT4 Vette's power. I supposed that's why I went for the suspension first. Not to mention I too have a limited budget, just ask my wife :cry
As far as the routes, I'll bet when we're done are cars will be very similar.
I have to admit it took me a few years to get used to my LT4 Vette's power.
I'm not used to the power myself. I've been driving it since January 15th 2001 and have not ever had it 8 months without making it faster somehow. I've got plenty of power to get me in trouble with, that's why I try to concentrate on straight line power. I know I can't handle the car in the corners as well as I should so I just slow way down. I don't have any good places to explore the car and test it's limits that don't have catastrophic effects.
I'm probably a discrace to any Vette owners who can really handle their cars.
Eric, how are the QA1 shocks for agressive cornering? I've read from other members that they are best for drag racing and Koni is the better for twisty stuff. Any input from you on this matter?
Eric, how are the QA1 shocks for agressive cornering? I've read from other members that they are best for drag racing and Koni is the better for twisty stuff. Any input from you on this matter?
I'm not a racer/auto-x'er, and the only track I've driven on is the drag strip. I am not really qualified to comment.
I choose Q1A's so I could have easily adjustable shocks at a reasonable price. I wanted to find a used FX3 system, but finding a complete kit is like finding hen's teeth. Having said that, so far I'm happy with them. The Koni's aren't easy to adjust and cost more so I passed.
I'm probably a discrace to any Vette owners who can really handle their cars.
Heck, probably most of us on here could say the same thing if we were honest. :) And, if you can drive the car to its maximum, then you probaby should or could be a race car driver, which a lot of people have to go to driving school for such skills. I think the main thing is to know your own driving skill limits along with your cars limits and that should keep you out of trouble for the most part.
Heres my old combo... and i BEAT all the zo6s ive raced... all the way too 175 mph.
full length headers.. no cats... stock exhaust.
Power pulleys
K&N filter
Mezziere pump
A computer chip ( callaway > although u dont have to get an expensive one)
1.6 roller rockers..
new LT1 valve springs + pushrdos ( what a difference!!!)
crane ignition
4.09 gear
relocated mat sensor
tpi airfoil
To make sur eu beat z06s and vipers.... port the heads KEEP stock VALVES... LT1 heads dont like bigger than 2.00 intake valves. and port match intake. leave the stock cam. if u want more lift, go with an ls1 rocker or even crower 1.8 rockers and get the shoppe to get custom length pushrods so they work fine.
best time on my bridgestone so2 tires (275/35/18 >> which slow me down)
is 12.71 @ 112.8 And REMEMBER if that doesnt impress you.... i shift into 5th at the end of the quarter mile, which effectively slows down my time and my mph. if i had 200 more rpm, i figure i could run 114-116 mph