C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

C4 kooling upgrade

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Old May 6, 2017 | 01:17 AM
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Default C4 kooling upgrade

Am sure anyone whos owned a Mid C4 knows they run hot, Been reading some things about upgrading to a more efficient radiator
and needing suggestions what you've done to yours for kooler running.
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Old May 6, 2017 | 08:56 PM
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DeWitts works well if you are keeping
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Old May 6, 2017 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by lectroglide
Am sure anyone whos owned a Mid C4 knows they run hot, Been reading some things about upgrading to a more efficient radiator
and needing suggestions what you've done to yours for kooler running.
I'm running a 180 degree T-stat, but the best thing I've done is clean out the leaves and debris from in between the radiator and condenser. Made a "high tech" tool for getting the crud out.

later, tiny
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Old May 6, 2017 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 1800Wing
I'm running a 180 degree T-stat, but the best thing I've done is clean out the leaves and debris from in between the radiator and condenser. Made a "high tech" tool for getting the crud out.

later, tiny


Glad you mentioned that, was just underneath the front end and seen some crap in thier, will get right on it! but still wanting to know about radiator upgrades
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Old May 6, 2017 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by lectroglide
Glad you mentioned that, was just underneath the front end and seen some crap in thier, will get right on it! but still wanting to know about radiator upgrades
You'll have to pop the hood and look into the gap on the starboard side between the A/C condenser and radiator to find more.

The C4 has a knack for sucking up crap on the road and THEN sucking it over the top of the condenser ( where Chevy originally put some foam filler which by now is nothing but dust ) Once the trash gets in between there it won't budge, but will happily pile up in front of the radiator.

I pulled a pot-load of crap and leaves out of mine.

later, tiny
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Old May 6, 2017 | 10:44 PM
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Pull out the rad. and clean the crap out of the fins, then there is some room to blow out condenser fins,engine side towards front, you will be supprized at the crap in there, you will run much cooler at hiway speeds and it cools down faster in traffic, at stop lights, did this to my 94 LT1 and temps dropped 10-15 degrees. Bigger rad still run warm they need air flow.

Last edited by A Peter C4; May 6, 2017 at 10:46 PM.
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Old May 7, 2017 | 12:21 AM
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Many folks have gone over to the All Aluminum after market Radiators, they eliminate the Plastic end caps and in most case's offer a larger Core.

I decided to go with the Dewitts my-self, more expensive then most but manufactured under high quality, and you only have to do the Mod one time..
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Old May 7, 2017 | 01:41 AM
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Seeing as you have a 95 you can reprogram the fans to turn on earlier. I have a 160 stat and have the fans programmed to turn on earlier - never gets hot even after I get on her a bit.

If you do the 160 or 180 stat & fan programming mod, along with the cleaning of the areas others mentioned and some fresh fluid, well she should run perfectly fine, nowhere near the 220s especially on a stock LT1.

If you're dead set stuck on an aftermarket radiator go for it, but if you never clean the debris out as the guys mentioned, maybe a lower stat, well then you might eventually end up in the same dilemma. The guys that really need the serious cooling are running higher compression/high HP/larger displacement engines IMHO
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Old May 7, 2017 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ElisTwoCents
Seeing as you have a 95 you can reprogram the fans to turn on earlier. I have a 160 stat and have the fans programmed to turn on earlier - never gets hot even after I get on her a bit.

If you do the 160 or 180 stat & fan programming mod, along with the cleaning of the areas others mentioned and some fresh fluid, well she should run perfectly fine, nowhere near the 220s especially on a stock LT1.

If you're dead set stuck on an aftermarket radiator go for it, but if you never clean the debris out as the guys mentioned, maybe a lower stat, well then you might eventually end up in the same dilemma. The guys that really need the serious cooling are running higher compression/high HP/larger displacement engines IMHO

this is my experience as well.

i have the 160 tstat and reprogrammed fans.
typical coolant temps used to be 220f. likely for emissions purposes.
now i never see above 178 f.

the plastic end cap design of the stock radiator is a bad design. ive had leaks from there and had to replace the radiator, but that size will still cool the engine well.

a lot of people here are all die hard about their $800 made in usa <insert name > radiator.

i read a lot of threads on engine builds here where an old man will skimp out and put an eagle made in china cast crank/pistons rotating assembly, but by darn will have that $850 radiator.
to each their own!!
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Old May 7, 2017 | 12:33 PM
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thanx for the info, from what I see dewitt must be very proud of their rads but well worth the price...........

Had a 92 and delt with the crap in that a hard to get at cavity everyones refering to, so last nite decided to check mine out and found some big leaves sitting around but not many so did get rid of most if not all.

Most times the car when warmed up will run around 201 then climb at stop lights etc to 216-220 but ofcourse drops when driving.

would appreciate a link to that temp reprogram thanx
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Old May 7, 2017 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by lectroglide
thanx for the info, from what I see dewitt must be very proud of their rads but well worth the price...........

Had a 92 and delt with the crap in that a hard to get at cavity everyones refering to, so last nite decided to check mine out and found some big leaves sitting around but not many so did get rid of most if not all.

Most times the car when warmed up will run around 201 then climb at stop lights etc to 216-220 but ofcourse drops when driving.

would appreciate a link to that temp reprogram thanx
They have a cheaper version.
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Old May 7, 2017 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
They have a cheaper version.
cheaper is not always the best route but how do their less expensive rads differ in performance?

Last edited by lectroglide; May 7, 2017 at 12:53 PM.
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Old May 7, 2017 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by lectroglide
cheaper is not always the best route but how do their less expensive rads differ in performance?
It's a single row vs 2 rows. If you are not doing something that requires a lot of heat removal like a relatively stock operation, like is good
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Old May 7, 2017 | 01:29 PM
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k thanx, while I'm here have another cooling question.............the dip stick in clear plastic recovery tank when cold reads an inch above the normal line, is that normal? if not whats the fix?
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Old May 7, 2017 | 07:34 PM
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You can draw some coolant out till it's at the cold level line but not nessesary as long as it's not overflowing when hot, I believe that's a cold minimum level.
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Old May 7, 2017 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by A Peter C4
You can draw some coolant out till it's at the cold level line but not nessesary as long as it's not overflowing when hot, I believe that's a cold minimum level.
cold level mark is an inch up the stick, mines 2 + cold, guess since nothings wrong were good
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Old May 7, 2017 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dizwiz24
this is my experience as well.

i have the 160 tstat and reprogrammed fans.
typical coolant temps used to be 220f. likely for emissions purposes.
now i never see above 178 f.

the plastic end cap design of the stock radiator is a bad design. ive had leaks from there and had to replace the radiator, but that size will still cool the engine well.

a lot of people here are all die hard about their $800 made in usa <insert name > radiator.

i read a lot of threads on engine builds here where an old man will skimp out and put an eagle made in china cast crank/pistons rotating assembly, but by darn will have that $850 radiator.
to each their own!!
Exactly

BTW - My temps also rarely hit 180 even when jumping on it, temps usually sit in the 170s, OEM radiator 160 stat & reprogrammed fans

The easiest way to do fan programming:
Hypertech Programmer (I got mine for less than 200 shipped via ebay & bought it specifically for the rear end speedo adjustment & fan adjustment)
PCMforless (ECM programming done)
LT1pcmtuning.com (ECM programming done)


Another way is you can use LT1edit software or http://www.tunercat.com/ to order a complete tuning kit or find a local tuner
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Old May 8, 2017 | 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
DeWitts works well if you are keeping
A DeWitts with factory fan/s
A stock t-stat
Flushed well including pulling the block plug and knock sensor.
Load with your favorite green stuff and distilled H20.
Burp and pack after the engine reaches running temp.
Go for a ride and after it cools down check level and burp/pack as necessary.

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Old May 8, 2017 | 01:27 AM
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Oh yeah... don't forget this reading
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...peratures.html
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