NoTyme

I am having some difficulty in getting my car to recognize the TPMS on my original 96 Collector Edition wheels. I have had a set of C5 polished wheels and tires for the last year and a half and after some bushing and shock work I decided to wear the original wheels that have the TPMS in them. They all worked when I took them off.
From what I have been able to find by my research is they are activated by the wheel turning around. This is what I found:

The C4 system uses a transmitting wheel sensor held in place by large band clamp. Each sensor has a separate identification color and frequency, which is transmitted as the wheel turns.

I installed the wheels and took it for a 10 mile ride and had reached the speed of 50 mph at one point. The dash light is still illuminated. I then tried to pull any codes that might be in the car by the following:

It is possible to attain the code from your dashboard. With the key in the “on” position, press and hold the “Trip/Odo” button until “1.1” is visible on the trip odometer readout. Next, press the “Eng/Met” button to scroll down the present code list (which is displayed at the MPH indicator) until you see the applicable one.


This did not work for me as the mileage would change to the trip miles and then back to the odometer. I then tried to bump up the air to 40 psi in each ties but haven't tried to drive it yet because of the weather.


Is there something I am missing here? If I understand correctly these sensors do not use battery's and there is no reset tool.

NoTyme

I did read on another forum that it may take up to 20 miles of driving for the sensors to send the signal to the computer:

It takes 20 miles of driving at speed before the sensors will output a signal to the computer. There are several things that have to happen before the computer will show a fault with the pressure. You have to be at speed for a length of time, the sensor has to tell the computer it is okay, then tell the computer the correct pressure is present. You have not met these criteria yet.

This may me my problem.

WVZR-1

You only mention 1 (one) lamp. What lamp? At KEY-ON what is displayed with the BULB CHECK? There are 2 bulbs I believe 1. LOW/FLAT TIRE, 2. SERVICE LTPWS

A manual "RESET" DLC 6 - 5 three times in 10 seconds should light BOTH until KEY OFF and then back to ON

Does CRUISE work? Check CRUISE FUSE if it doesn't as the receiver I believe is power using the CRUISE fuse!

I don't ever recall seeing that LTPWS can be seen using CCM diagnostics through the DIC Key-pad.

NoTyme

Sorry, yes it is #2, SERVICE LTPWS light. It has been on most of the time I have run the C5 wheels and tires. When I first changed out the tires & wheels they were lined up against the wall next to the car where I parked and they were close enough to turn the light off and each time I would go for a drive the light would pop on again This actually happened a couple of times before I stored them upstairs, believe it or not.
I am going to go for a longer drive this morning before the rain comes and see if that helps.

WVZR-1

I would "clear" using the 6 - 5 jumper before doing the drive. Once cleared I believe you should get the 2 lamp at "bulb check". You didn't mention what you get currently for the "bulb check".

NoTyme

By bulb check you mean what lights up at the key being flipped on? Looking at the owners manual, page 2-98 there is a pic of the Driver Information Center which shows a blank spot to the left of Service LTPWS. The only light that does not momentarily lite up is the Low Coolant light.

I still have the Service LTPWS light on after 45 mile drive this morning, of which I cycled the key twice during the drive. Most of the ride was highway so I know I exceeded the 40 mph that I seen posted somewhere.

Not sure what you mean by jumper 6-5.

WVZR-1

jumper 6 & 5 here at the DLC connector (fixed a typo from 5/20 that mentioned 5 - 5 LOL)

NoTyme

So if I understand correctly you take a paperclip and touch the ground lead #5 to #6 the PT control module? Easier said than done. I don't think I can even see it under the dash, LOL. Thanks for the clarification.

NoTyme

Well, a big THANK YOU goes out to WVZR-1 as I did as you instructed, "used a paperclip and inserted into pin 5 & 6 (jumped) 3 times within 10 seconds" (actually did this twice), and noticed as soon as I hit the key that the Service LTPWS light did not come on immediately when the key clicked into the ON position as it has done before. The light did come on as the bulb test cycled and shortly went away after a short drive.
I went for a drive and didn't get 1/2 mile down the road and the Service LTPWS light disappeared.
Such an easy trick and no where was this info found on the internet except right here on this forum.
Again, thanks so much for sharing this info with me and the rest of us here!

Sid.123

Hi from what I understand about these sensors is they have a battery sealed inside that is not replaceable so when it fails you have to replace it... however there are videos on YouTube that show how to replace these battery's..cutting them out and soldering new ones in.. might be worth a look

WVZR-1

OP - good to see that it worked for you as it should have. A pleasant "surprise" maybe for you!!

NoTyme

Frankly I am surprise they still do work being 21 years old now, but with some help from WVZR-1 I was able to reset the computer and the light on the dash went out in less than half a mile drive. BUT it is good to know there may be a fix for these when they do die off. I am going to do a bit of a search now and see if I can find that video. Thanks

Sid.123

glad you got it sorted👍

NoTyme

I don't remember the Service LTPWS light being on each time I drive the car. I have tried it several times now and most of the time the light does go out after a short 1/2 drive. On a 20 mile trip it stayed on. But when we left the restaurant the light went off after 1/2 drive. Strange...
Can anyone tell me if their Service LTPWS light is on at the beginning of every drive and then goes out after a shortly?

carguy604

I've owned my car for 8-9 years now and it's always been that way. The piezoelectric LTPWS must rotate for about 1000' in order to generate enough electrical charge that the system functions and the light goes out. The LTPWS cannot really store any significant amount of the charge so, when you turn the ignition off and on, the wheel needs to rotate for another 1000' or so before the system will reset itself again. This is normal and is the way it's supposed to be.

NoTyme

Thank you carguy604, it has been a while since I ran the original wheels and tires on my C4. If memory serves me correct the C5 polished wheels was the first thing I did to my C4 when I bough it some 28 months ago. Since I did a bit of work on my C4, end link and sway bar bushing along with shocks, I wanted to go back to the original wheels for a bit of a change. I was puzzled as I could not remember the trouble light at all before the wheel swap. There is not much info out there on the web about these tire sensors and how they work and I was not about to override a safety function by pulling the light bulb out.
I do want to thank you on your helpful explanation.