C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Painted alternator-do I need to ground?

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Old May 23, 2017 | 08:56 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by slhawkins
Also, I said "coolant tube" a couple of times. That's the thermostat housing. It kept bugging me that I couldn't think of the name of it. :-P
I knew what you meant
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Old May 23, 2017 | 09:50 PM
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I read bout the eagle one for cleaning aluminum on here this winter and I just cleaned my c3 carb intake while it was off. You need to clean the intake well after, it leaves a residue and I rinsed it plenty. Soon as I started to port my intake I could smell it, so I gave it a hot dish soap bath after n that got most the cleaner off. I only sprayed the top and it got in the ports and on the underside while rinsing.

Also for the ALT you can run a 10ga or 8ga wire from that rear bracket bolt directly to the main grd location on the block or batt post if you want to improve the connection. I used one of the housing bolts but my alt is bare.

edit: I used an old tote to wash it with dish soap FYI

Last edited by BOOT77; May 23, 2017 at 09:52 PM.
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Old May 25, 2017 | 01:53 PM
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Just FYI I got it put back together, seems to be running fine and voltage is correct coming off the alternator.

Conclusion: Maybe painting isn't the BEST thing for your alternator but it won't kill it if you're careful.
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Old May 25, 2017 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
Just FYI I got it put back together, seems to be running fine and voltage is correct coming off the alternator.

Conclusion: Maybe painting isn't the BEST thing for your alternator but it won't kill it if you're careful.
Got an after picture?

I think the key thing with the alternator will be seeing how it does when it's hot out and the engine has been running for an hour or so. By then the engine bay should be somewhat in a steady state and the alternator will be as hot as it'll get. I doubt you'll have a problem though, especially if you didn't paint a dozen thick layers on there. :-) Glad you got it back running! It's always refreshing to put the car back together and hear it start up.
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Old May 25, 2017 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by slhawkins
Got an after picture?

I think the key thing with the alternator will be seeing how it does when it's hot out and the engine has been running for an hour or so. By then the engine bay should be somewhat in a steady state and the alternator will be as hot as it'll get. I doubt you'll have a problem though, especially if you didn't paint a dozen thick layers on there. :-) Glad you got it back running! It's always refreshing to put the car back together and hear it start up.
Thanks! Yeah it's rewarding to be getting so much done on this thing. Below are a couple after photos once I got it all back together.




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Old May 25, 2017 | 11:41 PM
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Looking good!!
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Old May 26, 2017 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 81c3
What about all the chrome alternators I've seen? I would think chrome plating is far thicker than a couple coats of paint...
You're laboring under a misconception. Not only is chrome plating far thinner than a good paint coat, but...being metal instead of organics...chrome plating has far greater thermal conductivity.

Not as good as a sand-blasted aluminum surface, but far better heat dissipation than paint...unless the paint is a very thin coat of flat black.
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Old May 26, 2017 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty

Next project....that nasty AC compressor.
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Old May 26, 2017 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by rocco16
Next project....that nasty AC compressor.

hahahahaa. its funny hey, dont even notice until a guy repairs the major warts. then the smaller warts stick out!

if a guy could find a replacement yellow sticker...
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Old May 26, 2017 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rocco16
Next project....that nasty AC compressor.
you read my mind, sir. I'm debating doing a new compressor or fixing this one, which I believe to be original.
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Old May 27, 2017 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
hahahahaa. its funny hey, dont even notice until a guy repairs the major warts. then the smaller warts stick out!

if a guy could find a replacement yellow sticker...
they're out there, just not for the C4 corvette...

https://www.kirbanperformance.com/pr...L+%237424.html




Last edited by Joe C; May 27, 2017 at 05:36 PM.
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Old May 28, 2017 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe C
they're out there, just not for the C4 corvette...

https://www.kirbanperformance.com/pr...L+%237424.html



How close is this to the original c4 sticker? I might have to get one after I get the AC back working and repaint the compressor...
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Old May 28, 2017 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
How close is this to the original c4 sticker? I might have to get one after I get the AC back working and repaint the compressor...
well, the numbers on the label ends (621) are wrong, for the C4, they should be 476. the model number is also wrong for the C4. I read over on the thirdgen forum, that someone had a label made at a sign shop - didn't say how well it turned out. another thirdgen member said he took a heat gun and carefully removed his original label, rebuilt and repainted his compressor, and re-installed his original with some sort of double sided tape. from his pic, it looked OK, but nowhere like a fresh, new label.
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Old May 28, 2017 | 09:28 PM
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My label is nearly gone. I might get the Buick one at some point-it is wrong but it would be nice to have something there.
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Old May 30, 2017 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
My label is nearly gone. I might get the Buick one at some point-it is wrong but it would be nice to have something there.
fact of the matter - there's probably only 1 out of 100 folks that would know the difference. personally, i'd cut off the end numbers, and black out the model number - that way, you're semi-correct and semi wrong at the same time...

it would only really matter if you were doing NCRS or Bloomington anyway.



before you or anyone buys anything, check this out...
http://www.highwaystars.net/label-bu...pressor-label/


Last edited by Joe C; May 30, 2017 at 09:49 AM.
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