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Code 33 and running like CRAP - 1985

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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 09:43 PM
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Default Code 33 and running like CRAP - 1985

2 days ago my alternator burned out while I was away from home. Drove the car home on battery, had to stop and have it charged up a few times on the way. The voltage hit a low of 5.8 volts or so before stalling once on me.

Fast forward to today-new alternator installed, takes off and runs beautifully...for a half mile. Then she starts running like absolute crap, won't rev at all, can't really get over 15 mph. I stop, open the hood, look around, nothing seems to have changed under there. Check codes, I'm getting code 33. I look up and it's the MAF sensor. I find it odd that it would go out right after I was dealing with low voltage/bad alternator issue, I'm suspecting something happened there.

I start to drive back home, halfway there she seems to forget there was a problem and starts running perfectly again. It's like something is intermittent because she kept cutting in and out of running like garbage. I don't actually think the sensor is bad, because of how it kept cutting in and out-it screams electrical issue to me. Anyone have any ideas?
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
2 days ago my alternator burned out while I was away from home. Drove the car home on battery, had to stop and have it charged up a few times on the way. The voltage hit a low of 5.8 volts or so before stalling once on me.

Fast forward to today-new alternator installed, takes off and runs beautifully...for a half mile. Then she starts running like absolute crap, won't rev at all, can't really get over 15 mph. I stop, open the hood, look around, nothing seems to have changed under there. Check codes, I'm getting code 33. I look up and it's the MAF sensor. I find it odd that it would go out right after I was dealing with low voltage/bad alternator issue, I'm suspecting something happened there.

I start to drive back home, halfway there she seems to forget there was a problem and starts running perfectly again. It's like something is intermittent because she kept cutting in and out of running like garbage. I don't actually think the sensor is bad, because of how it kept cutting in and out-it screams electrical issue to me. Anyone have any ideas?
Although mine isn't as bad running wise as your problem I have 33 and sometimes 34 very, very intermittently. Of course as soon as i'm set up to trouble shoot it, it all works fine. 33 is a high voltage signal caused mostly by loose grounds and connections. The FSM talks about "wiggling wires" - I kid you not.

So far I've redone the MAF connector and looked all over but the darn thing is so intermittent...
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 10:43 PM
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The fact this happens RIGHT after my alternator issue implies to me that's the cause. I could be wrong of course but it's way to much of a coincidence I think.

Wires look ok for the pigtail. I reset codes and it came back immediately while just idling. Also removed MAF to inspect, looks good to me. Wiring also looks ok.

Can low low voltage damage this stuff? I'm wondering if the ecm is burned up somehow?
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 11:20 PM
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Heres the code33 flow chart. It's F body but it's the same for Y. Although low voltage can be a problem with some electrical-mechanical devices, I'd just want to check out the wiring, etc before I'd go to the ECM, relay and so on.Yes it seems odd to be a coincidence but maybe.
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 03:11 AM
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Error code 33 is caused by a high signal between the MAF and the ECM. The most common cause is a corroded connector pin or a broken wire.
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
Error code 33 is caused by a high signal between the MAF and the ECM. The most common cause is a corroded connector pin or a broken wire.
All troubleshooting in the FSM is pointing to a bad MAF. Only thing throwing me is that the troubleshooting refers to connector E on the harness but the diagram shows A B C D F connectors, no E. am I missing something?

can someone provide some plain English troubleshooting for me? I think I've read the FSM correctly but I want to be sure.
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 10:11 AM
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Also, I disconnected the MAF and still stumbling idle. With the MAF disconnected should the problem go away if the sensor is the issue?
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 11:37 AM
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New plot twist: Completely disconnected the MAF, cleared all codes, started the car, and code 33 immediately set. I'm thinking it might be the ECM in this case. Why else would code 33 set with the sensor disconnected?

My theory is I managed to F*ck up the computer driving it with low voltage.

Last edited by Bfenty; Jun 2, 2017 at 11:41 AM.
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
Also, I disconnected the MAF and still stumbling idle. With the MAF disconnected should the problem go away if the sensor is the issue?
I would agrre with cleaning the connectors with sandpaper and electrical cleaner(safe for plastic) not a wire brush unless you disconnect the battery. Then put a dab of dielectric grease to keep it clean for months to come. I replaced all of my important connectors with new ones. don't forget about the mafs female connector and you can use the electric cleaner to clean the maf. My headlights have failed because of the dirty connector. Heres a pic of the alcl



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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 12:53 PM
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More info (can someone out there confirm they have similar on their car?

I connected volt meter to each wire in the MAF connector. first two wires (red and blue, I think) are ~ 0.4 v each. green wire is 5 v. the last two are grounds, no voltage coming through them. Is this normal operation?
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 01:20 PM
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Bf I am terrible with a voltmeter I only know how to check batteries and tpi setting.
I think you should inspect connectors and wires once confirmed looking good and clean, disconnect the battery and start over. That will reset your computer.
Just an idea.
Good Luck
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by xrav22
Bf I am terrible with a voltmeter I only know how to check batteries and tpi setting.
I think you should inspect connectors and wires once confirmed looking good and clean, disconnect the battery and start over. That will reset your computer.
Just an idea.
Good Luck
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 01:54 PM
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Only other thing I can think to check is to check the burnoff module directly as well, it will not be a fun job to get it out but MAFs tend to be trickier to troubleshoot. And check the Gauges 10A fuse if you aren't getting power on the purple wire leading into the MAF. A current spike from a dying alternator could've fried the fuse.

If that is not it, I think the best bet is to get a MAF from another 85 and test it.
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vader86
Only other thing I can think to check is to check the burnoff module directly as well, it will not be a fun job to get it out but MAFs tend to be trickier to troubleshoot. And check the Gauges 10A fuse if you aren't getting power on the purple wire leading into the MAF. A current spike from a dying alternator could've fried the fuse.

If that is not it, I think the best bet is to get a MAF from another 85 and test it.
THIS. NO WHERE ELSE did I see to check this fuse-not in the FSM or online anywhere. I saw another forum post that mentioned this fuse connects to the burnoff module, pulled it out, and voila! It was burned out. New fuse, no problems! I wish I'd seen your post sooner!
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
THIS. NO WHERE ELSE did I see to check this fuse-not in the FSM or online anywhere. I saw another forum post that mentioned this fuse connects to the burnoff module, pulled it out, and voila! It was burned out. New fuse, no problems! I wish I'd seen your post sooner!
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