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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Re: Amp and speaker removal (jtfrog)
Well, if your 86 is anything like my 88 here is the procedure I used. HTH
Having removed both of mine its a PITA, but doable with a few tools.
Phillips head screwdriver
Flat blade screwdriver
7mm nut driver
10 or 12 mm socket wrench (I can't remember which)
Pliers (needle nose works best, I used a Leatherman type tool)
To remove your door panel:
Remove the positive (or negative) cable from the battery terminal (keeps you from blowing fuses)
unlock the door and using the flat blade screwdriver pop off the lock indicator.
there are several screws around the edge of the panel near the bottom, remove them all. Remove the 4 screws holding your speaker grill on. Remove the one screw on the back of the door above the hatch switch (I didn't even know where the hatch switch was until I did this). Remove the two screws in the arm rest. Gently pull the bottom edge of the door panel out, make sure you didn't leave any screws in.
Lift up the panel and it will come off, there are several wire connectors, gently disconnect each one. For the door lock switch a thin straight bladed screwdriver works the best to get the connector off.
Now you will see a plastic sheet held on by two or three plastic press in holders and a bead of glue around the bottom. Using your pliers gently pry them out and pull the plastic down exposing the inner door panel (silver) and the 4 screws holding in the Bose speaker enclosure.
Using the 7mm nut driver remove the screws holding the silver panel and the bose speaker box.
There is one more "bolt" that goes through the inner door panel and the window mechanisim, use the 10 or 12 mm socket to remove it.
Now you can wiggle the inner door panel out. Push id down and back and the top right corner should wiggle out. Push down and forward and the rest of the top will come out, pull up and the bottom will come out. THere are two bars running along the backside of this panel, one for the lock and one for the door handle. They may come loose, thats OK they pop right back in place.
Now that you have your inner door panel out and just kinda hanging there by these two rods you can work on your speaker enclosure.
Take the flat blade screwdriver and force it between the enclosure and the door skin. Do this in a couple of places and pry gently. The enclsure will release from the door.
Find the plug where the wires connect and disconnect it. Wiggle the enclosure out through where the inner door panel was.
There you go, just reverse when you are ready to reassemble.
I wounder if it is worth the trouble. Is there a speaker that will fit in the box. I woundering if changing out the speaker to a good two way and then bypassing the amp and adding my own amp.
It's actually really is easy. It took a friend and I, all in all, about an hour to do both sides. We used a 6½" Speaker and we basically just sat it where the factory 5¼" was, but we had to dremel off a bit from the factory amp box. LEAVE THE AMP BOX IN THE DOOR! It makes for a better speaker enclosure and it also makes things a WHOLE lot easier. All we had to do was unscrew the four screws holding the amp on, then slide it back, finagle the wires so we could run them to the new 6½", then we put everything back on, and got a piece of hardboard and made a plate (Search for my post about my new stereo) and then we screwed a screwed into the factory speaker grill holes, and voila, that's all there was to doing the front. The rears are a complete drop-in job.
He's right but the stock speakers are 4". I dremeled my stock boxes and put in 5 1/4. The stock system runs a 2ohm load so it sounds alot better if you change the HU too.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Re: Amp and speaker removal (jtfrog)
A few months ago (March - May I think) I asked the question about getting the speakers out of the doors in audio - never got a decent response until Kale posted some pictures of his and I talked to a guy with and 89 that had his panels off a couple of times. Too many of the folks in audio want to talk about 91 and up installations (IMHO).
I did not re-use the boxes that came out of the door, I used some scrap lumber and built a new boxes for my 51/4 round 2-way speakers. Replaced the head unit with a 1 din CD player after my MP3 deck was ripped from the car. In the rear I used the mounting plates from the bose boxes to mount 6x9 speakers. Any more questions just ask!
It was a magor PITA to pull everything out of the doors. I'm sure there was an easier way but I ended up unscrewing everything possible between the speakers and the amps, while still in the doors, and breaking up the rest with channell locks small enough to fit through the speaker opening.
I put Rockford Fosgate 5 1/4's in the front, Rockford Fosgate 6x9's in the rear, 1 din single cd alpine head and a 4x80 jbl amp.
I still going to have to fabricate my own grills for the front as you can see the new grills don't cover enough from where the OEM's were.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Re: Amp and speaker removal (jtfrog)
Can the amp be removed without the box and without removing the door panel
Nope, the amp is inside the box with the speaker. Only way is to pull the panels and remove the whole box. If you are doing a full system replacement you might be able to make a small box and stick it on the floor like the 90 and up cars.
The door panel is not that hard to do, took me about 40 min for the first one and 20 min for the second one.