Differential yoke play
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 112
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
Differential yoke play
Hey guys, been chasing down vibration in the drive train of my stock 85' C4.
I replaced u-joints on the drive shaft, replaced the slip yoke, bushing, seal and had the drive shaft balanced. Was definitely worn and needed replacing but didn't completely fix the problem…
So I replaced the u-joints on half shafts and I noticed that both yokes going into the rear differential (off the half shafts) was a little loose… I can shake them up and down with a clunking noise. I'm thinking this is the drivetrain vibration that I've been looking for.…
This is where I need some of the expert opinions Here…
How easy is it to remove the yolk from the rear differential? I know there's a bolt holding it on…is it similar set up to the slip yoke going into the transmission where it slips over a spindal with a bushing (of course not a slip in the differential)? Or is the gearing on the yoke? Can it be slipped out or do you have to remove the differential and take it apart to get the yoke out?
I am obviously not a differential guy… any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I replaced u-joints on the drive shaft, replaced the slip yoke, bushing, seal and had the drive shaft balanced. Was definitely worn and needed replacing but didn't completely fix the problem…
So I replaced the u-joints on half shafts and I noticed that both yokes going into the rear differential (off the half shafts) was a little loose… I can shake them up and down with a clunking noise. I'm thinking this is the drivetrain vibration that I've been looking for.…
This is where I need some of the expert opinions Here…
How easy is it to remove the yolk from the rear differential? I know there's a bolt holding it on…is it similar set up to the slip yoke going into the transmission where it slips over a spindal with a bushing (of course not a slip in the differential)? Or is the gearing on the yoke? Can it be slipped out or do you have to remove the differential and take it apart to get the yoke out?
I am obviously not a differential guy… any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,373
Likes: 2,734
Hey guys, been chasing down vibration in the drive train of my stock 85' C4.
I replaced u-joints on the drive shaft, replaced the slip yoke, bushing, seal and had the drive shaft balanced. Was definitely worn and needed replacing but didn't completely fix the problem…
So I replaced the u-joints on half shafts and I noticed that both yokes going into the rear differential (off the half shafts) was a little loose… I can shake them up and down with a clunking noise. I'm thinking this is the drivetrain vibration that I've been looking for.…
This is where I need some of the expert opinions Here…
How easy is it to remove the yolk from the rear differential? I know there's a bolt holding it on…is it similar set up to the slip yoke going into the transmission where it slips over a spindal with a bushing (of course not a slip in the differential)? Or is the gearing on the yoke? Can it be slipped out or do you have to remove the differential and take it apart to get the yoke out?
I am obviously not a differential guy… any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I replaced u-joints on the drive shaft, replaced the slip yoke, bushing, seal and had the drive shaft balanced. Was definitely worn and needed replacing but didn't completely fix the problem…
So I replaced the u-joints on half shafts and I noticed that both yokes going into the rear differential (off the half shafts) was a little loose… I can shake them up and down with a clunking noise. I'm thinking this is the drivetrain vibration that I've been looking for.…
This is where I need some of the expert opinions Here…
How easy is it to remove the yolk from the rear differential? I know there's a bolt holding it on…is it similar set up to the slip yoke going into the transmission where it slips over a spindal with a bushing (of course not a slip in the differential)? Or is the gearing on the yoke? Can it be slipped out or do you have to remove the differential and take it apart to get the yoke out?
I am obviously not a differential guy… any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Last edited by WVZR-1; Jun 11, 2017 at 10:20 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 112
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
…i have to remove the whole differential out of the car and basically do a re build?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,373
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 112
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 7,339
Likes: 137
From: WilkesBarre PA
All replaceable bearings and races for the pinion and carrier. Roller bearings for the axles. You could buy rebuild kits with everything included from places like Denny's, Randy's, Tom's differentials.
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Team Owner
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Well with the 4+ it's a D44 so I'd suggest you do whatever very soon. You don't want it to explode or get worse. Out of the car it would be very easy to remove the short-axles and evaluate what you've got. If the short-axles are good then it's a matter of bearings and seals. I'd consider buying the pinions, the washers and the pin maybe BUT after evaluation maybe you'll find you don't need. These rears deserve "maintenance" but seldom do they get it. They're run until busted way to often. Lots for you to consider!!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 112
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
well it makes sense to replace it all while i have it out. Like i said before im not a differential guy…but im handy and i have the factory shop manual…do u guys think this is something i could handle? Or get it done by a pro?
Last edited by fflumpy; Jun 11, 2017 at 10:30 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,184
Likes: 381
From: Lunenburg MA
If you haven't done diffs before, have it done. The Dana being aluminum needs to be spread to setup properly. You'll have lots of fun just trying to get those selective snap rings out. Been there, don't want to go back. :-)
Team Owner
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Judging from the way you approached the drive-shaft repair, balance of and replacing bushing, seal etc. I'd say you're likely very capable.
How many miles on the car?
Once the short-axles are removed and visually inspected it will be more obvious as to the extent of the required service.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 112
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
I believe that you remove it from the car and evaluate what you're "needing". Once evaluated I believe you "then" determine if you'd like to attempt the "maintenance" or if it's maybe a "for hire".
Judging from the way you approached the drive-shaft repair, balance of and replacing bushing, seal etc. I'd say you're likely very capable.
How many miles on the car?
Once the short-axles are removed and visually inspected it will be more obvious as to the extent of the required service.
Judging from the way you approached the drive-shaft repair, balance of and replacing bushing, seal etc. I'd say you're likely very capable.
How many miles on the car?
Once the short-axles are removed and visually inspected it will be more obvious as to the extent of the required service.
Well…the speedometer "reads" 65k. Not sure on actual miles
Team Owner
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Being an "early" D44 and the pinion being shimmed vs a crush-collar I'd think you're likely very capable of the "evaluation" your self and very likely the bearing/seal and whatever the evaluation seems to indicate. If you're not rushed I'd say consider it. Might have been good to have been done over the winter BUT I'd say you CAN'T wait until next winter.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 112
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
Being an "early" D44 and the pinion being shimmed vs a crush-collar I'd think you're likely very capable of the "evaluation" your self and very likely the bearing/seal and whatever the evaluation seems to indicate. If you're not rushed I'd say consider it. Might have been good to have been done over the winter BUT I'd say you CAN'T wait until next winter.
I talked with a guy at a rack&pinion shop by my house…he seemed to be pretty knowledgeable on c4's. He stated that you should not be able to move the yoke up and down…
BUT he also stated that he highly doubts that that is the source of my vibration…?!?
What do u guys think? Think bad bearing in the diff could cause vibration?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 19,347
Likes: 654
From: Tampa, Florida
Go through all the vibration tests before you get into the diff...
Find the sweet spot for the vibration then drop into neutral. If the vibration goes away its Engine/transmission related.
Swap wheels left to right, if the vibration goes away it wheel/tire related.
Does the steering wheel vibrate? Can you feel it in the brake pedal?
Find the sweet spot for the vibration then drop into neutral. If the vibration goes away its Engine/transmission related.
Swap wheels left to right, if the vibration goes away it wheel/tire related.
Does the steering wheel vibrate? Can you feel it in the brake pedal?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 112
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
Go through all the vibration tests before you get into the diff...
Find the sweet spot for the vibration then drop into neutral. If the vibration goes away its Engine/transmission related.
Swap wheels left to right, if the vibration goes away it wheel/tire related.
Does the steering wheel vibrate? Can you feel it in the brake pedal?
Find the sweet spot for the vibration then drop into neutral. If the vibration goes away its Engine/transmission related.
Swap wheels left to right, if the vibration goes away it wheel/tire related.
Does the steering wheel vibrate? Can you feel it in the brake pedal?
Last edited by fflumpy; Jun 14, 2017 at 09:52 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 19,347
Likes: 654
From: Tampa, Florida
The vibration stays in neutral. Sometimes it's bad sometimes it's not to bad…i had the tire/rims "road forced" balanced…so im thinking that its not the tires. Rims are offset so i cant go fromt to back with them. Yes the steering wheel shakes back and forth. Nothing in the brake pedal. Hand the rotors turned last week.
steering wheel leads me to think it's up front somewhere. Do a thorough suspension check... ball joints, tie rod ends, bearings, control arm bushings etc.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 112
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
I will try the wheel swap and ill check the front end again.
Thanks again…going out of town for a while will update when i get it done