C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Cruise control vacuum dump switch help, PLEASE

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Old Jun 21, 2017 | 02:04 PM
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Default Cruise control vacuum dump switch help, PLEASE

89 auto stock

I don't understand this. I have three new brake pedal vacuum dump switches, all different makes, all from different suppliers. None of them hold vacuum. Two will pump up, but loose vacuum very fast. The third pumps up, looses vacuum slower then the other two but holds at about 5 inches.

How can a dump switch work if if can't hold vacuum? I have to be missing something. I only want to crawl under the dash one more time😂

Hope someone can explain this to me so I can get car back together again
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Old Jun 22, 2017 | 12:38 PM
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so, are you saying the 3 switches have all been tried, and none of them have solved the problem?

The minor leak with the vacuum switch is totally ok, your manifold vacuum can easily overcome that leak. You can verify my last statement by checking the vacuum in the line going to the vacuum dump switch. You might have a leak in your lines if your lines are old. Mine are pretty weather checked in the engine bay, but perfect inside the car

Sounds like the dump switch isn't the issue with your system...

Put up a picture of your servo, so I can see if its the same as mine on my '84...

Do you have 12 volts to the cruise brake switch? that 12 volts comes thru the stalk switch , and is ON when the switch is ON.

that switch should be CLOSED when the brake pedal is not pressed. I jumped that switch to rule it out as a problem on mine. It's the main safety shutoff, so if you do that be ready to shut off the cruise via the stalk, your vacuum dump is the second backup.

Be careful, as always.
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Old Jun 22, 2017 | 01:48 PM
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Are you positive the vacuum line itself is not leaking
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Old Jun 22, 2017 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cdm747
Are you positive the vacuum line itself is not leaking

i think i have have been going about this the wrong way

First, the hose going down to the switch has no leak as verified with vacuum test. No leak

because it's such a pain to get under dash, I have been checking dump switches out of car at my bench with a vacuum pump. Not one of them hold vacuum, and I'm beginning to believe that's not a problem. I can't believe three switches would all be bad. Today I replaced the switch and I am in the process of putting everything back together. If my back and neck heel by tomorrow, I will try it out.

The problem is is that the cruise control will activate and you can set it to stay at speed selected. Once speed starts to decrease the control will activate again to bring it back to set speed. The problem is that when it activates to increase speed, it does it very hard. Meaning it speeds up to quickly. I think the original switch was bad, and not allowing system to hold vacuum so that each time it needed to gain speed to get back to original set speed, it was acting as thought you were setting the control for the first time

hope this makes sense, cause I'm just quessing. If this doesn't fix problem, then I think it has to be servo. Everything use to work just fine

Mike

Last edited by mlm0; Jun 22, 2017 at 02:48 PM.
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Old Jun 22, 2017 | 03:12 PM
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how much slack do you have in the cable that activates the throttle?
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Old Jun 22, 2017 | 03:40 PM
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there is a 5 wire connector on my 1984 servo, pins labeled A to E

the servo position inductive sensor is located on pins B and D.

the resistance between pins B and D should be 42 ohms , if memory serves.

if that resistance is out of spec, it could cause the surge you're seeing.
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Old Jun 22, 2017 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by knikula
how much slack do you have in the cable that activates the throttle?

I have added and taken out slack, but made no difference. Plus is was working, then one day it wasn't
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Old Jun 22, 2017 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by knikula
there is a 5 wire connector on my 1984 servo, pins labeled A to E

the servo position inductive sensor is located on pins B and D.

the resistance between pins B and D should be 42 ohms , if memory serves.

if that resistance is out of spec, it could cause the surge you're seeing.

if if the new switch doesn't help, I check that
thanks
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Old Jun 22, 2017 | 06:36 PM
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correction : that resistance from B to D is 22 ohms +/- 5 ohms.

Manual also says cable should operate freely, if you haven't checked that.
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