KM hub tool installed correctly?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,426
Likes: 165
From: Motor City
KM hub tool installed correctly?
Is this Kent Moore tool installed correctly to remove the crank hub? Seems to be about the only way it can be installed. The straight rod is installed inside the hub, cupped end pressing against the end of the crank.
Everything i've read makes it seem like it will slide off easily but it's taking quite a bit of force, even moving the crank with the trans in 6th and parking brake on.
Just want to make sure, dont want to break the hub ears off!
Everything i've read makes it seem like it will slide off easily but it's taking quite a bit of force, even moving the crank with the trans in 6th and parking brake on.
Just want to make sure, dont want to break the hub ears off!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,426
Likes: 165
From: Motor City
Didn't get a chance to post yesterday, hope everyone had a nice 4th!
Bonehead of the year award goes to me on this one. Before WVZR posted the installation instruction picture I had installed the tool using the threaded rod to remove the hub. BIG mistake
What resulted is the threaded rod destroying a couple threads inside the crank snout
I should have some time tonight to get the hub fully off and assess the damage, but it looks like a total of 2 threads got jacked up.
Anyone have experience chasing/tapping the crank bolt threads? Praying it's not too bad.
Bonehead of the year award goes to me on this one. Before WVZR posted the installation instruction picture I had installed the tool using the threaded rod to remove the hub. BIG mistake
What resulted is the threaded rod destroying a couple threads inside the crank snout
I should have some time tonight to get the hub fully off and assess the damage, but it looks like a total of 2 threads got jacked up. Anyone have experience chasing/tapping the crank bolt threads? Praying it's not too bad.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,605
Likes: 202
From: Trinity FL
You'll be fine just get the appropriate tap. 
I would also consider getting a new billet hub or a sleeve for your existing hub. The groove worn in the original hub will not jive well with your new seal and you WILL get a leak.
I would also consider getting a new billet hub or a sleeve for your existing hub. The groove worn in the original hub will not jive well with your new seal and you WILL get a leak.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,426
Likes: 165
From: Motor City
The good news is the crank bolt threaded in a turn or two before getting caught up so the restorer should have something to follow.
Can you elaborate a bit more on the billet hub/sleeve and leaking? In all my hours on CF i've never read about this.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,605
Likes: 202
From: Trinity FL
You've accumulated a lot of Miles on the original hub/seal. This has worn a small groove into the hub where it rides against the seal. You can feel it with your thumbnail. If you reinstall the old hub without a sleeve, the groove will cause premature wear in the new seal causing a leak.
So either go with a new hub (nook and tranny on eBay is where I got mine back in 2012). Or, sleeve your existing hub. I had a hard time with the latter so I went with a new hub. It's a job you don't want to do twice.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,426
Likes: 165
From: Motor City
^^This.
You've accumulated a lot of Miles on the original hub/seal. This has worn a small groove into the hub where it rides against the seal. You can feel it with your thumbnail. If you reinstall the old hub without a sleeve, the groove will cause premature wear in the new seal causing a leak.
So either go with a new hub (nook and tranny on eBay is where I got mine back in 2012). Or, sleeve your existing hub. I had a hard time with the latter so I went with a new hub. It's a job you don't want to do twice.
You've accumulated a lot of Miles on the original hub/seal. This has worn a small groove into the hub where it rides against the seal. You can feel it with your thumbnail. If you reinstall the old hub without a sleeve, the groove will cause premature wear in the new seal causing a leak.
So either go with a new hub (nook and tranny on eBay is where I got mine back in 2012). Or, sleeve your existing hub. I had a hard time with the latter so I went with a new hub. It's a job you don't want to do twice.
The thread chaser was no able to fix the existing threads in the crank nose, but I was able to tap it. The crank bolt runs in fine, time to continue the cam install.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,605
Likes: 202
From: Trinity FL
The hub is off and there is a large groove worn into it. Thanks for the info, i'll look into getting a new one or putting a sleeve on it. Your right I dont want to do this over
The thread chaser was no able to fix the existing threads in the crank nose, but I was able to tap it. The crank bolt runs in fine, time to continue the cam install.
The thread chaser was no able to fix the existing threads in the crank nose, but I was able to tap it. The crank bolt runs in fine, time to continue the cam install.