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i have an 87 killing the battery, i have narrowed it down (i think) to the interior light etc. circuit, should the interior lights come on upon connection of the battery, even the connection of amp meter wires between negative cable and battery terminal?
Yes, when you reconnect your battery, you interior light will react as if you just opened and closed the door. they should stay on for about 30ish seconds then go out.
Pull the negative cable and put an amp meter between the negative cable and negative battery post. On my 96 I draw 30mA, I beleive other model years are similar. If you're much higher then that, pull fuses until you see the current drop down. That will narrow the draw.
Pull the negative cable and put an amp meter between the negative cable and negative battery post.
When you first make this connection, the current draw may be over 5 Amps until all of the electronics go to their standby mode. This initial current draw may blow the fuse in your amp meter (DVM) unless you first put a short jumper wire between the battery post and the battery cable. Then put your amp meter between the battery post and the battery cable. Wait until the interior lights go off (doors must be closed and under-hood lights must be off). Then remove the jumper wire to make the measurement. It should be less than 50 ma (0.050 Amps). (My '84 standby current draw is 13 ma.)
Not sure about an 87, but on my 96 I have larger size fuses under the hood that I don't believe the HF circuit test will work on, so you might still need to do the amp meter test.
Not sure about an 87, but on my 96 I have larger size fuses under the hood that I don't believe the HF circuit test will work on, so you might still need to do the amp meter test.
'93 the first year for the MAXI (under-hood boxes)
There's way more components to check before going to the fuses. I'd think the DMM approach 1st to check major components and then "maybe" the check of individual circuits using the mentioned device.
A DMM and HRR's suggested jumper connection approach I believe is the 1st move. You need to have an idea of just what/where you might be led.
If all of the fuses are ATO you can use the DMM without pulling fuses.
ok, i hooked my meter up, it showed .8 amp draw, i pulled fuses one at at a time, when i pulled the circuit breaker for the power window switches it dropped to .03, i wiggled the switches a little and put the breaker back, and it still remains at .03 for 2 days now, so, i guess i have some new window switches in my future