Window Seal Replacement on the 94
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 37
Likes: 6
Window Seal Replacement on the 94
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/vem...y-corvette-c4/
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...l-replacement/
I replaced my window seals/sweeps with parts from Corvettemods.com for around $100.00.
Overall I am very happy with the results.
I do have some tips if you take on this job having never done it before.
1. You will need a drill to drill out 3 rivets in each door holding the outer seals. It isn't difficult.
2. My kit did not come with the necessary new rivets to complete the job. You will need 3/16 width rivets that are at least 5/16 but no longer than 3/8 inches for the tension area. *** Amazon is your answer for 3/16 by 3/8. I went to Harbor Freight, Home Depot, Lowes, and then Napa with no luck.
3. Go slow and have some painter's tape to cover any tool that comes close to your car if necessary.
4. One of my window tensioners was stuck. I was able to take the bolt out and knock it down into the door. You will want a magnet on the end of a stick to get it out of the bottom of the door and to hold back up in the door so you can grab it with needle-nose pliers and put the bolt back in.
5. ***** When you push the new outer sweeps into place get them lined up and then slowly push the clips in a little bit at a time. Push each clip moving down the line a little bit further in succession and they should go right in. On my driver's side I pushed the ends in all the way and the seal became slightly deformed/bent moving to the rest of the clips. It is in there but it isn't quite as tight or neatly installed as my passenger side. This is especially important when you seat the outside edge of the seal over the door. You don't want to be hasty and get part of it pinched inside the door. It is difficult to get out and I wound up using a dental pick with tape over it to work it out slowly (very difficult).
6. Use zip lock bags to keep all the screws organized.
7. Last tip... The door light doesn't have to be pushed through the plastic holder like you may see on some youtube videos. Once you get the door liner out you can simply unplug from the back and pull from the front.
8. A mechanic's light and extension cord will be helpful.
Best of luck!!
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...l-replacement/
I replaced my window seals/sweeps with parts from Corvettemods.com for around $100.00.
Overall I am very happy with the results.
I do have some tips if you take on this job having never done it before.
1. You will need a drill to drill out 3 rivets in each door holding the outer seals. It isn't difficult.
2. My kit did not come with the necessary new rivets to complete the job. You will need 3/16 width rivets that are at least 5/16 but no longer than 3/8 inches for the tension area. *** Amazon is your answer for 3/16 by 3/8. I went to Harbor Freight, Home Depot, Lowes, and then Napa with no luck.
3. Go slow and have some painter's tape to cover any tool that comes close to your car if necessary.
4. One of my window tensioners was stuck. I was able to take the bolt out and knock it down into the door. You will want a magnet on the end of a stick to get it out of the bottom of the door and to hold back up in the door so you can grab it with needle-nose pliers and put the bolt back in.
5. ***** When you push the new outer sweeps into place get them lined up and then slowly push the clips in a little bit at a time. Push each clip moving down the line a little bit further in succession and they should go right in. On my driver's side I pushed the ends in all the way and the seal became slightly deformed/bent moving to the rest of the clips. It is in there but it isn't quite as tight or neatly installed as my passenger side. This is especially important when you seat the outside edge of the seal over the door. You don't want to be hasty and get part of it pinched inside the door. It is difficult to get out and I wound up using a dental pick with tape over it to work it out slowly (very difficult).
6. Use zip lock bags to keep all the screws organized.
7. Last tip... The door light doesn't have to be pushed through the plastic holder like you may see on some youtube videos. Once you get the door liner out you can simply unplug from the back and pull from the front.
8. A mechanic's light and extension cord will be helpful.
Best of luck!!
Zen Vet Master Level VII
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 5,218
Likes: 1,174
From: Southlake, TX
Great tips! Well done it looks great!
I did mine (second car) a couple of weeks ago so If I may add to your tips...
When putting the sweeps on, lightly coats the door top and the rubber sweeps with a little WD40 as it will make sliding them on much easier.
You don't actually have to take the door panel off. I used a tennis ball in between the door frame and panel to hold it apart for drilling and riveting.
I wrapped the drill bit about 3/8 of an inch from the tip with electrical tape to use as a depth guide.
I did both door at the same time doing the step the moving to the other door and repeating; it seemed to go faster and smoothing using the same tool and learning from one to the other.
Love your color!
I did mine (second car) a couple of weeks ago so If I may add to your tips...
When putting the sweeps on, lightly coats the door top and the rubber sweeps with a little WD40 as it will make sliding them on much easier.
You don't actually have to take the door panel off. I used a tennis ball in between the door frame and panel to hold it apart for drilling and riveting.
I wrapped the drill bit about 3/8 of an inch from the tip with electrical tape to use as a depth guide.
I did both door at the same time doing the step the moving to the other door and repeating; it seemed to go faster and smoothing using the same tool and learning from one to the other.
Love your color!
