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I have determined the window motor on the passenger side of my 96 is likely bad. Is it better to replace the entire assembly or just the motor? The window mechanism looks fine but I wont know for sure until I completely remove from the door. I tend to lean toward retaining as much of the original assembly usually helps avoid the "direct bolt in replacement" misrepresentation so typical of most claims.
Your window motors were riveted to the window assembly frame. One, pull the assembly out and drill out rivets out and replace motor or Two, you can buy the whole window assembly that includes the motor (which is what I did). My decision was based on keeping my 88 C4 for years to come and new widow assemblies ensure good window operation. Window glass can be a bitch to adjust. Keep all old parts.
I just repaired my passenger side motor. If you test for. Outage at the motor and find power going to it, you can just replace the motor. Spray black paint around the window adjusting bolts so you can replace them exactly in the same position. Remove the regulator assembly. A fsm is helpful here. As Had2have mentioned, the motor is riveted in place. Drill out the rivets, rivet in the new motor and put everything back the way it came out. If you marked all the adjusting bolt areas with paint, you won't have any adjusting to do. Make sure you check for voltage first or you may be doing this when a fuse or switch might be the culprit
Thanks for the replies and solid adivice. I tested the switch and verified I have alternating power at each pin depending on switch position and used a battery to apply power directly to the motor harness with no luck. May try the motor replacement route. If the track is showing signs of wear, I will return motor for complete assembly.
Since it is the passenger window and it is on a twenty year old car I would be willing to bet that the commutator and brushed have funked up and aren't making good contact.
It might be worth a try to get the motor to turn a little as to get a different spot between the two. Once it got to running it would free itself up and run. maybe
Can you get to the gear on the motor with a screwdriver of something and turn it?
I replaced the window regulator assembly on the drivers side a few months ago. Other than the added cost of the assembly you are doing as much work just to replace the motor as to replace the assembly. I had no issues with fit & finish on the assembly. Unfortunately for me, mine was stuck in the full down position making the unbolting of the glass from the regulator framework a little more difficult.
I guess that I went a little overboard with labeling all of the wires & switches... but I'm not the best mechanic and it made reassembly much simpler.
Since it is the passenger window and it is on a twenty year old car I would be willing to bet that the commutator and brushed have funked up and aren't making good contact.
It might be worth a try to get the motor to turn a little as to get a different spot between the two. Once it got to running it would free itself up and run. maybe
Can you get to the gear on the motor with a screwdriver of something and turn it?
There is no way to turn it. It is a worm drive setup. I ordered the motor and going to just replace that. Just need some time to do it. OnceI s start, there is no going back.
I replaced the motor in my 94 passenger door. While the regulator was out I cleaned and greased it.
Drilled out the rivets and the new motor came with bolts so I used those since I do not own a rivet gun. One thing to watch out for is the bolt heads hitting the regulator when you raise and lower the window. I had to grind the head of each bolt down about half way to clear the regulator.
One minor detail that no one seemed to mention is one of the rivets is directly behind one of the tracks. Even if one could manage to drill the rivet on an extreme angle, I don't believe there is any way to get the new bolt into place without removing the track. Am I missing something here? I may be able to get the rivet out but may have to settle for only two bolts holding the motor in place.
Yes that bolt behind the rail is a P.I.T.A. but it can be done, I did it.
I had a friend pull the rail out far enough that I could slide the bolt in. The rail will go back into place when you stop pulling on it.
Grind the bolt head down about half way and put blue locktite on the threads before You put it in. You don't want to have to deal with that bolt more than once.
Last edited by 94corvetteC4; Aug 26, 2017 at 02:51 PM.
Yes that bolt behind the rail is a P.I.T.A. but it can be done, I did it.
I had a friend pull the rail out far enough that I could slide the bolt in. The rail will go back into place when you stop pulling on it.
Grind the bolt head down about half way and put blue locktite on the threads before You put it in. You don't want to have to deal with that bolt more than once.
I just finished putting it back together with only two bolts. Seems solid. going to give it a try. Put 12 volts to it and it works great. One question I have is does the motor keep trying to lower or raise the window when it his the stops?
Mine doesnt. Mine stops when it should at the top and bottom.
Hmmm.... it is just dumb motor that will keep running as long as it has power. Unless it rides to the last tooth on the gear and just free wheels until the direction is reversed hence the need for the spring.
Finished install today. It was much easier to put back together with track in the 2/3's position. Removing with the track at the top of it's travel was a major pain. Spray painting the window nut/washer locations was a great idea. Only needed minor adjustment. Seems to work fine with only 2 bolts. She is good to go, now on to the AC issue.
Window Motor Replacment Question
