C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

remove Meziere WP

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Old Aug 13, 2017 | 11:10 AM
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St. Jude Donor '19
Default remove Meziere WP

What parts do i need to return to normal pump? i think perhaps the cam drive pin and some O rings ? plan to use new GM pump, is this a good choice? i have changed everything at this point, except pump and rad., no leaks but car still pegs tamp @ 245 in any type of traffic , 210 at 70 on hwy. will also service opti while pump is off, what is best brand of cap and rotor ? thanks JO'N
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Old Aug 14, 2017 | 11:36 AM
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I would have checked the rest of the cooling system before anything. if working, electric water pumps are supposed to be an improvement...not cause problems.

It will probably still run hot after you do the swap - back...

Regardless, most people seem to like the msd cap and rotor, even if they don't prefer their opti distributors...
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Old Aug 14, 2017 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by johno504
i have changed everything at this point, except pump and rad.,
"except radiator" ? have you pulled the radiator and cleaned it? or cleaned the a/c condenser in front of it? its amazing how much crap piles up in front of these items; its also amazing how much crap gets stuck in between the cooling fins themselves.
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Old Aug 14, 2017 | 03:17 PM
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paid shop $$ to check, change ,flush,clean ,pull knock sensor,hoses ,thermostat (180) etc...no change at all. heat continues to climb at speed, peg 260 in traffic. to answer my own question , 10128334 bushing over cam shaft drive pin is removed for electric pump install, all other parts remain the same. soooo.... temp does NOT go down @ 70 , leads me to suspect bad radiator ?. shop tells me electric pump works, but is so quiet and smooth running they had hard time just to find this out.
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Old Aug 14, 2017 | 04:28 PM
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"bad" radiator? more likely dirty a/c condenser and radiator; trust me, if they didn't pull your radiator to clean it, it ain't clean

to convert back to oem pump at a minimum you will need (from C4 parts manual @ 1-17 and 1-16):

302. water pump drive #10219554
304. seal, water pump bearing #10217886
311, seal, water pump drive shaft #12553792
317, coupling, water pump drive shaft #10128334
318, seal water pump drive shaft #12553792

if any of these remain on your engine is anyone's guess

Last edited by mtwoolford; Aug 14, 2017 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2017 | 05:09 PM
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well crap, did not plan on replacing other misc. parts/ seals etc.spoke to person @ MEZIERE, was told only that the cam shaft pin bushing should be missing. who the hell knows, i'll start with new radiator and hope for the best.nothing wrong with it money won't fix,problem is i have spent $6k in last 1,600 miles and have a car i can't drive.
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Old Aug 14, 2017 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by johno504
well crap, did not plan on replacing other misc. parts/ seals etc.spoke to person @ MEZIERE, was told only that the cam shaft pin bushing should be missing. who the hell knows, i'll start with new radiator and hope for the best.nothing wrong with it money won't fix,problem is i have spent $6k in last 1,600 miles and have a car i can't drive.
I don't know quite how to put this, but if your shop had trouble figuring out if the electric water pump was running "because it was so quiet" I'd suspect maybe the impeller was partially, or completely adrift from the shaft; or the motor was turning at less that it's intended speed; with electric motors and pumps, admittedly large AC industrial units, I've seen all this happen (and more lol).

Cleaning radiators is, or should be almost a routine maintenance item with these cars, but I would not overlook a failing water pump; I've never taken a MEZIERE apart, but since it is an direct current pump, it has to have brushes and a communtator which could and probably do, fail over time (rather than catastrophically, all at once).

Last edited by mtwoolford; Aug 14, 2017 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2017 | 07:20 PM
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pump puts out same flow at 10 mph as 100. if temp goes up with speed wouldn't this indicate a blocked or bad radiator ? if there was zero coolant flow, temp should fall just from air flow alone at speed.(?). shop had to use stethoscope to to find out if pump was running, problem is you can only feel engine vibration, if engine is off pump is too hot to touch.
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Old Aug 14, 2017 | 08:31 PM
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Is your air dam still in place? Radiator and condenser clean? Is the system bleed with all the air out? Fans running like they should? I run a Meziere pump and BeCool radiator, the car runs 190-200 all the time.
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Old Aug 14, 2017 | 10:58 PM
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everything has been checked,see post 4. will take car to another shop and have radiator pulled,checked and or replaced. at least that way i will know for sure getting good air flow thru system. both fans work, pump seems to work so we shall said the blind man. overheating may have been ongoing issue, as PO installed fan over ride switch under dash. no service records,so who knows.....
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Old Aug 15, 2017 | 07:37 AM
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If you have to replace the drive gear, you will have to pull the intake manifold to put replace it. I'd certainly look at all the items mentioned above and/or get a new meziere pump.

How many volts is the electric pump drawing? that would be my first thing to check...

Also, let a reputable mechanic diagnosis it. You telling them what to fix, only makes then do what you ask for. A problem like this could be anything from a plastic bag in front of your condenser, to a blown head gasket....
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Old Aug 15, 2017 | 07:45 AM
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Are you sure your temperature gauge is reading properly?
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Old Aug 15, 2017 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cadmaniac
If you have to replace the drive gear, you will have to pull the intake manifold to put replace it. I'd certainly look at all the items mentioned above and/or get a new meziere pump.

How many volts is the electric pump drawing? that would be my first thing to check...

Also, let a reputable mechanic diagnosis it. You telling them what to fix, only makes then do what you ask for. A problem like this could be anything from a plastic bag in front of your condenser, to a blown head gasket....
True, up to a point. shop has had to deal with with 1 bad elect. pump in the past, so they know some of the issue involved.
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Old Aug 15, 2017 | 02:08 PM
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Default good question

Originally Posted by JimLentz
Are you sure your temperature gauge is reading properly?
no i am not sure, will replace both sending units with new radiator.
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 11:59 AM
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New radiator fixed nothing. old unit was cleaned week before, so mostly just a waste of money. car ran 244 in light city traffic, have not driven on hi way yet.i know one thing, i'll be GD if spend $800 for s new electric pump.
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 12:02 PM
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did not have the 2 temp sensors changed yet, that's plan E or F for next week....
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by johno504
New radiator fixed nothing. old unit was cleaned week before, so mostly just a waste of money. car ran 244 in light city traffic, have not driven on hi way yet.i know one thing, i'll be GD if spend $800 for s new electric pump.
NOT TO but yesterday's crisis du jour was finding out that the water pump that wasn't pumping water on a 12 cylinder ship's diesel had an impeller that came adrift = no water being pumped = no cooling. Sooo, it can and does happen; Sooo if your pump is sooo quiet it takes a stethoscope to hear, I suspect the motor is turning but the impeller is not. My suggestion is to pull the pump, separate the motor from the pump casing and look for a problem there...after all, you've done everything else.

"Once every other possibility has been eliminated, what is left, no matter how improbable, must be the answer"; Mister Spock...no not the baby doctor, the OTHER Mister Spock .
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To remove Meziere WP

Old Aug 18, 2017 | 12:46 PM
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2nd mechanic told me this am that pump was "working " . he also told me "the best thing to do with hot rod crap is to change back to stock". He is 100 % right, a new mechanical pump may be plan f or g.
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by johno504
2nd mechanic told me this am that pump was "working " . he also told me "the best thing to do with hot rod crap is to change back to stock". He is 100 % right, a new mechanical pump may be plan f or g.
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 01:12 PM
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problem with $100+/hr mechanics checking and looking ,my bill adds up faster than the U S Mint can print the paper. i am stuck with this
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