C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Oil change leads to

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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 01:03 PM
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Default Oil change leads to

I drained the oil on my 89 convertible. 2nd oil change since I got her. Put the bolt back in and just kept turning and turning and turning. How bad is it to pull the oil pan in the car? I figure I'll redo the oil cooler lines too. They're all covered in oil and sludge.
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 02:20 PM
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If it is just the bolt that is stripped, then you might be ok with just a new bolt.

If it is the nut welded into the pan, you might be able to use an oversize plug at least temporarily.

They sell them at most auto parts stores and they are designed for cutting new threads into a stripped out pan nut. They are a little bit oversize from the standard size.

Good luck
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 02:40 PM
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Bolt is good. I don't want to risk tapping a bigger hole with the pan on the car, but that is the plan once its off. At least I can seal up the drips. I was tempted to use this as an excuse to rebuild, but I don't feel like spending 2-3k right now on a perfectly good engine that just passed CA smog.
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 02:59 PM
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I think you'll be fine, room wise.

And it's not that bad. I put rings and bearings in my 85 with the engine right in the car. Wasn't a particularly bad job.

Last edited by confab; Aug 17, 2017 at 02:59 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 03:10 PM
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Personally I would not be concerned about tapping a new drain bolt for the oil pan. The oil pickup tube has a screen, and the oil is pumped through the filter before distributing around the engine anyway. Yes the filter might bypass but still I would not worry about any shavings, just use a magnet to pull them out if you want to. Unless you are just in the mood to pull the pan.
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 03:36 PM
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Something I did a while back to help out a friend. He got an oversize plug somewhere (I suspect from a different mfg engine) and found a tap that matched the threads. Took the tap and soaked it a while IIRC in mineral spirits to clean it off well. Took a rare earth magnet and using some hot glue on the sides stuck it to the end of the tap. Put some grease in the gullets of the tap to pick up any metal cut off and had at it.

Far as we could tell, got it all between the grease and anything left over was picked up by the magnet. I know about 5 years later he was still running the same engine without a problem.
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 05:00 PM
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You could also dump a quart of oil in to help flush out any tiny shavings inside the pan. Dan

Last edited by Whaleman; Aug 17, 2017 at 05:00 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2017 | 05:31 PM
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Since the pan, oil cooler and rear seal are all leaky I'd rather pull the pan, unless pulling the pan is impossible while in the car.
Thanks for the replies.
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 02:24 AM
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its easy. if you think front of pan is hung up on the crank, rotate engine by hand a few degrees and pan will drop out.
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Old Aug 18, 2017 | 07:42 AM
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Put cylinder 1 at TDC. Remove frame braces, oil cooler lines, and loosen the brake line.

It comes out pretty easily.
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Old Sep 2, 2017 | 01:45 PM
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What color is the oil pan supposed to be on a stock 89? Part of it by the oil plug looks 1965 Pontiac GTO blue.
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Old Sep 2, 2017 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
its easy. if you think front of pan is hung up on the crank, rotate engine by hand a few degrees and pan will drop out.

if you dont wanna deal with it call Steves automotive on easy st hes honest and does good work.
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Old Sep 2, 2017 | 03:35 PM
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I already have the oil pan out. I'm not just going to fix the bolt and slap it back in. I'm going to clean, media blast, replace or paint everything I can under there. Valve covers too.
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Old Sep 2, 2017 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by topfuel67
What color is the oil pan supposed to be on a stock 89? Part of it by the oil plug looks 1965 Pontiac GTO blue.

satin black.

not flat not gloss.

satin black
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