Since I can't get an engine hoist until Monday, I was planning on taking all the front engine mounted accessories off while it's still in the car. I was wondering, which ones can I put on the new engine while it's still on the stand and still be able to get the engine in the car? This question applies to the exhaust manifold and any intake parts as well. The transmission will remain in the car also. :cheers:

 

I'm using the TPI setup (check sig). I thought the chain bolts had to go into the bolt holes in the intake. Could I bolt the chain to the holes on the ends (front and back) of the heads?

 

i've installed a few engines over the years and the accessory that i would recommend the most to bolt on before installing an engine would be the tranny. it is way easier to take it out and put it back in as one piece :cheers:

 

Ive installed my engine with the exhaust manifolds already bolted on.The accessories I added on the engine stand was the balancer,flywheel,manifolds and waterpump.

The drivers side manifold can be left off since its easier to bolt on then the passenger side once the motor is in the car.

After the engine went back in,I added the other accessories.See,With the P/S pump and etc not being bolted on yet,it was easier to bolt the motor mount bolts down.
Either from the engine bay or from under the car.
So after that came the p/s stuff,a/c,idler/tensioner bracket, and pulleys etc.Took a bit longer but made install much easier.

Also,if the tranny isnt moved back by now,its going to be a real PITA to drop the motor back in there...it can be done but its alot of adjusting and work.

And yes,I used the chain to attach to the heads...one in the front and one in the back on opposite sides.TPI/runners,plenum went on last
because I did a fuel pressure check on the rail a few times to ensure the rail/injector didnt leak before I put the runners on.If cold start valve equipped,dont plug that in during the test with the Key on then off to prime the rail and see that it dont leak and holds pressure.
:)

 

I dont have any direct experience with pulling and replacing engines, but my friends with vettes have all said that youll be better off putting the PS pump on there before dropping it back in.

 

I used 4 bolts, one at each end of the aluminum heads with the leveler to adjust and balance the engine. I left the exhaust manifold off for ease of dropping the engine and ease of intalling the engine mount. You can install the intake manifold to the engine before putting engine back to the car this way (4 bolts on the heads) that way you have time to retorque the intake a day after installed. Its a good time to change the intake bolt to different style than those torx bolt what a PITA those bolts (I reused them and one stripped on me while we torque, I don't know what I'll have to do to take it off when I need to change the intake gasket in the future :mad )

Make sure you put the brake hose that attach to the rear of the driver head right after the engine is in the car before doing anything else. :yesnod:


[Modified by VQT88Vette, 12:53 AM 10/6/2002]

 

Hey Vader,
Wanted to add to your post....the p/s pump isnt a problem at all and is very easy to install on the engine once the engine is in the car.

If you add the P/s pump onto the new motor first,youll need to first bolt/add the rear p/s hose and let it hang off the pump rear until the engine is back in the car.
Then,when the motor is in,connect that hose to the rack.Its more of a PITA to me to do it this way.

On my 86,there is a rear p/s hose that has a curved metal line and bolts on the back of the pump behind the pulley.If the p/s unit and pulley is already bolted to the motor,its almost impossible to attach that hose that goes behind the pulley into the pump if it wasnt done so yet.

Also,Thats not a problem if the pulley has been pulled off already and will be pressed back on later.With the pulley off,theres more space to work.

So what I did was after the engine was back in the car,I first connected that rear hose to the back of the p/s pump and then bolted the p/s pump/bracket back onto the engine.

The pulley was already on the pump and this was the easiest way for me to do this.Some people will disconnect that hose from the rack and take the engine out with the pump and line attached to it and reinstall the same way but I wanted the extra room to work in there plus have more access to the motor mount bolts,etc.

It was still easy the way I did it.
Just wanted to let you/others know.
:)

 

A couple of questions Bill...

What do you mean "if the tranny isn't moved back"? I don't understand :conehead :smash:

I'm using the CSI plug kit. What do I do with the extra injector harness? Tape it, cut it, use it for another accessory :jester ?

Thanks for all the info guys, keep it coming!!! :cheers:

 

Hey guys. I ended up pulling off the power steering pump, but left it hooked up to the lines and just tied it back. I also tied back the A/C compressor. I couldn't remove it from the bracket because some yahoo before me put the long bolt on the far pass side in backwards. Instead of it coming out from the front, it comes out from the back and I would have to remove the A/C lines to get it off. :smash:

I also removed the exh manifolds, and to my surprise, they use 3" collectors!! I can bolt on my shorty headers and not have to replace the whole exhaust!! :cool:

I am going to leave the headers off until after the motor is in. There is a ton more room to get to the motor mounts with them off.

Now, since I'm using the shortys, with no EGR/AIR crap (I'm still using the AIR pump until I get a replacement pulley), can I just leave off the AIR switching valve, the other emmissions thing next to the A/C comp, and all the piping belonging to the stuff. My chip has already been programmed to have that stuff inactive, but I want to make sure it's not going to interfere w/ anything else. Oh yeah, no EGR either. :D

Thanks!! :cheers:

 

I pulled mine out with just the balancer and waterpump on it, and put it back in the same way. DO NOT use the rear accessory bolts on the cylinder heads unless you are a glutten for punishment. :) I'll defintely be using the manifold holes or intake bolts next time.

 

want a cheap pulley to replace your air pump, the replacement kit they sell for $160 is a rip off, I went to the dealer and got this air conditioner pump eliminator pulley that bolted right in with the help of a few washers on the back side.I used one to get rid of my air pump and one to get rid of my air conditioner pump. they work like a charm and are only $35 or so each. this pulley comes factory on some trucks that don't have air :cheers:

 

nincompoop, did you have to change the belt, or can you still use the original.

Scorp, it does seem like I'm a glutten for punishment, but I won't force it upon myself by using those rear accessory bolts. I'll have to look at my intake to see which hole I could use for the rear. :cheers:

 

Either use the rearmost right intake bolt, or an exhaust manifold bolt. Using the rear accessory holes is a total PIA as it is really hard to move the engine back far enough to line up the mounts. I had to take one mount off in order to make it work like this.

 

yes, sorry, i had to buy a belt that was about 2 inches shorter, and i had to make a brace to go from the back of the alternator bracket to the intake to keep everything from moving under load. i can send you a pic tomorrow if you like :cheers:

 

I would greatly appreciate some pics. Thanks man! :cheers: