I was down at the local hang out , talking with another vette owner whom i told about this site, and he said he would be on. There was also a Z28 1998 Owner there that used to own a L98 Vette like my 85. He heard me try and start my car the 2nd time is the charm he says...He says my Fuel Pump is going, he said he replaced his and it started up no problems. Said something about im prob loosing Fuel Pressure when i shut it off or something like that, i was in to much of shock to listen..He said its an easy job and cheap. Anyone else think hes right...Car cranks and cranks, on the 2nd try turning the key cause u dont wanna sit ther and crank it over and hold it, it starts...RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR ------ RRRRRRRRRRBBBRRRUUMMM see what i mean..
C4Dreams

 

I would check the fuel pressure with a gauge to see what you have. A clogged fuel filter may be the problem too. Anytime after 75k the pump can go south on you. It's been my experience on several different vehicles when the pump went it just went nothing gradual about it. I would suggest you go with an OEM pump if you have to replace it. I've had too much trouble with the knock offs. Sure they give you another one when you bring it back, but that doe's not cover towing or labor to reinstall. If all of the above is good than start looking at injectors. Hope this helps 84 CF 91 ZR-1.

 

How do you tell if a pump is going bad?????? :confused:

 

Thanks, ill replace the fuel filter tues *day off* :D and see if that works, if not o what a shame i have to get better injectors o NO! :reddevil Hehe when it breaks always replace with better equipment. This is how i got my Buick WE-4 *GN* 12.1 just bye breaking misc stuff. Ohh no injector leak, o well i guess i need some ford blue tops. O exhaust is rusty, time for new bigger and better one. Granted it sux to have to replace it but if you do, replace with better faster *more HP* products i always say, but thats my .02
C4Dreams

 

Last time I checked, hard starting is related usually to leaky fuel injectors.
Mine does it, and I had the fuel pump fail on my about 3 months ago, and I replaced it, so it ain't that. My 9th injector was leaking down, so I eliminated it a while back. It still cranks for a few times, but thats the other 8 17yr old injectors. :D ... Ohms checked out perfect, and I don't feel like ripping my intake off to replace them now.. :cheers:

 

i just went through this same mess :mad , i replaced the feul pump, fifter, all hoses, relay, rebuilt my pressure regulator and blew the entire system out all to put off the inevitable. A BAD INJECTOR. I guess my name says it all :D change your injectors, there is no way around it, and you won't believe the difference once you do :cheers:

 

Could be leaking fuel injectors. Could be bad check valve in fuel pump. Attach a fuel pressure gage to the shrader valve on the fuel rail. Turn the ignition on, but don't start the car. Should see about 38 psi. Shut the ignition off. Watch the pressure. Should hold for a long time (better than an hour). If not then repeat the process but have someone pinch the fuel supply line (the rubber section just before it leaves the tank) immediately after turning off the ignition. You'll have to take the gas door and rubber splash shield off to do this. If pressure holds, with the line pinched, it's the fuel pump check valve. If it doesn't it's most likely leaking injectors. I've had both conditions. Replaced injectors and a few weeks later problem was back. Replaced the pump and all is well. On my car the failed fuel pump check valve caused the pressure to leak down vey fast (three - four minutes). When I had bad injectors the leak down took about 20 minutes. Symtoms may vary. Hope this helps some

 

If you floor it from idle, do you notice any hesitation?

 

NOpe, no hesitation, i wish...It just burns the tires over if you floor it untill you either 1 let off, or 2 you get up to speed :D what does this mean?
C4Dreams

 

Well, then your pump is probably working fine... maybe a problem with the check valve, if it's not holding pressure.

You're on your own from here... I haven't checked on my fuel pump yet.... I don't want to mislead you on anything.

 

You can test your fuel system to see if it is keeping pressure by pinching off the return line to the tank AFTER the system has been primed and the power shut off. If the injectors are leaking down or the pump's checkvalve is not holding you will see the pressure drop off.

If your car has the original injectors it would be a good idea to send them out and have them cleaned and flowed. The other option is to replace them as most RP injectors of that era where not that good. The injectors can become contaminated which can cause many problems. If they have many miles on them the springs can become weak as well.

Racetronix has a promo on now where we will clean and flow your injectors for $10.00 each. We will replace the screens and o-rings if required.


We also have Delphi injectors on sale if you decide you would like to replace them.

We also have fuel pump systems on sale for your C4.



contact sales@racetronix.com for more information.

Jack :cool:
Racetronix http://www.racetronix.com

[Modified by Racetronix, 6:13 AM 10/9/2002]


[Modified by Racetronix, 6:17 AM 10/9/2002]

 

I bought one of your KITS for my 87 Buick WE-4 *aka GRAND NATIONAL* and found a big diffrence in power. But this was for a turbo car so. This car i think i just need to replace the pump wit an OEM replacement or something. Havint the injectors tested and flowed isnt an option for me im not sure about any of the other guys, because my vette is my daily driver. Not like i can pop them out and send em off. But i liked the fuel pump that i bought for my Buick Grand National thanks
C4Dreams

 

Ok at some point I am going to post this in the tech tips section... Here are the sure fail tests for the fuel system to save you time and money.. Take a fuel pressure gauge attach it to the schraeder valve.. turn the key on and off a few time to build up the pressure in the system... If you are having starting trouble the pressure will probably drop as soon as it hits 38 or 40 and the pump turns off it will probably leak back to zero within a few minutes. Ok now right after you prime the system pinch off the return line near the tank if the pressure drop stops it is a bad fuel pressure regulator.... Next pinch off the feed line if the pressure holds then the leak is before the point where you pinched the line IE fuel pump check valve..hole in the metal line on the sending unit caused by it rubbing on the inside of the tank you should visibly be able to see this if you pull the pump and the sending unit...(this was my problem) or the pulse dampener which is the piece between the pump and metal line on the sending unit.. the diphragm tears.. and last if you pinch both the feed and return line near the tank and the leak down of the pressure continues then a fuel injector is your problem.. This is the GM test.. saves time and money..

 

In my 88', the fuel pressure spikes up to 38-40, then you hear the relay click for the fuel pump, it drops down to about 20, but holds it there and never goes to zero. Is this what it's supposed to drop to?