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So I purchased my Corvette new December 2013. In august 2016 my car over heated in stop and go traffic.Car only had 22000 million it. I took it to a Local Chevrolet Dealer, they could not find a problem. They said there were no codes, and suggested i have them purge the coolant system and check for leaks. Well the car pegged out the temp gauge at 260, and blew out a Gallon of coolant and fried the oil, thats the only code I got was 0 oil life and it had only been changed 2 weeks earlier and about 500 miles. Well it did it again in October 2016, so I took it to a different Chevy dealership, once again, they could not find a problem with it? so the last time I took it in it was 2 months away from the bumper to Bumper warranty being expired. They told me at that time if it does it again that it would still be covered because it was a pre existing issue. So yesterday the car did the same thing, I took it to the Chevy Dealership that checked it out last year. So now they want to charge me $135 to Diagnose the problem, I asked why am I having to pay to Diagnose a pre existing issue that you were unable to find the problem. They told me last time if it did it again it would be covered, but they want to me to pay to Diagnose. I did notice last time as I sat waiting for the car to cool down that the electric fan was not on, with the car running or off and coolant was spraying out or the system. Any words oF advice ?
So I purchased my Corvette new December 2013. In august 2016 my car over heated in stop and go traffic.Car only had 22000 million it. I took it to a Local Chevrolet Dealer, they could not find a problem. They said there were no codes, and suggested i have them purge the coolant system and check for leaks. Well the car pegged out the temp gauge at 260, and blew out a Gallon of coolant and fried the oil, thats the only code I got was 0 oil life and it had only been changed 2 weeks earlier and about 500 miles. Well it did it again in October 2016, so I took it to a different Chevy dealership, once again, they could not find a problem with it? so the last time I took it in it was 2 months away from the bumper to Bumper warranty being expired. They told me at that time if it does it again that it would still be covered because it was a pre existing issue. So yesterday the car did the same thing, I took it to the Chevy Dealership that checked it out last year. So now they want to charge me $135 to Diagnose the problem, I asked why am I having to pay to Diagnose a pre existing issue that you were unable to find the problem. They told me last time if it did it again it would be covered, but they want to me to pay to Diagnose. I did notice last time as I sat waiting for the car to cool down that the electric fan was not on, with the car running or off and coolant was spraying out or the system. Any words oF advice ?
First.... thats alot of miles (22000 million)... second, try posting in the C7 forum.
quick update-took the car to the welder today, he wasn't comfortable doing the job without taking the plenum, runners, fuel rail, injectors, etc. off the car. He offered to come to my place and do the job if I have it stripped down before he comes and not charge me for the house call (nice guy!), he's just worried about screwing something up with the car still together and that much teardown wasn't really practical in his shop (I was planning on just taking the TB and plenum off).
Not a big deal, I was planning on stripping it down that much anyway, cleaning everything, and putting the newly refurbished injectors from my old car on (she's got a misfire at high RPM/load and I'm almost certain the injectors aren't giving enough fuel). I've also got an adjustable fuel pressure regulator I can put on there while I'm at it to give her a little extra
I've done that job before but that was on my old car. Here's hoping I don't run into more issues with stubborn bolts...
Started the tear down today. Got the plenum off, throttle body, passenger side intake runners, and got stuck on the drivers side runner. I can’t get the rearmost bolt off-can’t get a wrench in there. I think I’ll take the smog pump off, so I can take the valve cover off, so I can take the wiper motor off, so I can reach the bolt. Gotta love this stuff
havent run into any more difficult bolts. I’ve been taking my time and using the acetone/atf mix to break them free.
Taking the smog smog pump off is proving difficult-you have to take the wheel off the front to reach the bolts, and two of the bolts holding the wheel on are stuck tight. I’ll soak them overnight and try again later.
Thanks for for all the help guys! I’ll keep you posted.
You have been given a lot of options on how to remove a broken bolt!
One common factor mentioned here is the "heating up" of the aluminum around the broken bolt. Heat is our friend in this type of job (up to a point). When I am dealing with this type of situation I heat up the bolt and surrounding area several times, not just once, and not just when I am ready to remove the part. The more often you heat it up the more likely that you will break it free from the corrosion that is holding it in there in the first place. Patience is important here, let the penetrating oil do its job with heat helping speed it up.
The last bolt that was frozen was on the rear of the car and I heated it up and KROILed it several times before any further attempts were made at removal. Letting it heat up and cool off is useful and helps the bolt get freed up.
Using an product designed to penetrate and using it liberally on the part several times before you try to remove it actually helps.
It took me over forty-five years to learn (slow learner) to stop before I break off the bolt, that was the hard part. Now whenever I run into a tight bolt that seems like a good candidate for breaking off I go right to my Kroil/Heat system. I have had far fewer broken bolts with this new way of handling them.
This is where experience has helped me identify a stuck bolt or nut before I break something.
I try not to use any power tool in removing bolts of less than 1/2" as they can make the problem worse in a hurry. On bolts with enough room I would double nut them and try it that way. Otherwise I would prepare to flatten the top, drill and remove using LOTS of penetrating oil and heat before I break anything else.
By the way, what kind of welder do others use to install the nut on the bolt to help remove it? I personally have hesitated to use any kind of arc or electric welder on a car with a electronic controls system. Welding a steel nut on a steel bolt broken off at or below the aluminum surface seems like a good way to potentially damage the aluminum as it has a much lower melting point. Then you need a "Heli-Coil" for sure.
This has been a great post to learn from, I just hope that you got the knowledge you need to go from here. I certainly learned lots and I appreciate that!
Have a great day and good luck with the minor challenge placed before you!
By the way, what kind of welder do others use to install the nut on the bolt to help remove it?
Whatever I have handy. At home, it's a basic 110v, Lincoln MIG welder. At work, I use a much better, Miller Series 70 MIG.
Originally Posted by ctmccloskey
I personally have hesitated to use any kind of arc or electric welder on a car with a electronic controls system.
I've been told that since I started in this field 20 years ago...but never seen it damage anything. I try to be cognizant of that and attach my ground near the weld area...in my mind the current would go from point A to point B w/o affecting anything else. The proper way to address this is to disconnect the ECM. I do this sometimes....sometimes I don't. Welding is not likely to hurt any of the sensors.
Originally Posted by ctmccloskey
Welding a steel nut on a steel bolt broken off at or below the aluminum surface seems like a good way to potentially damage the aluminum as it has a much lower melting point. Then you need a "Heli-Coil" for sure.
Nope. The weld doesn't affect the aluminum in a meaningful way. You're not focusing the heat ON the aluminum...you're focusing it on the steel. Also, you're welding with a different medium than aluminum so it won't stick/adhere with the aluminum. Anyway, the peripheral heat going into the aluminum gets transferred away very quickly, and doesn't damage the threads. At least not for me. I never even need to chase the threads. I simply fill the hole in short "hits", so my pile doesn't sag to one side, then stick the nut on my pile and weld it on. Back out the stud and the hole is ready for a new bolt. I haven't had to use a Heli-coil yet.
Just thought I'd share another progress pic-almost have it down to the manifold. So far I've still been able to get most of the bolts out without too much fuss.
Whatever I have handy. At home, it's a basic 110v, Lincoln MIG welder. At work, I use a much better, Miller Series 70 MIG.
I've been told that since I started in this field 20 years ago...but never seen it damage anything. I try to be cognizant of that and attach my ground near the weld area...in my mind the current would go from point A to point B w/o affecting anything else. The proper way to address this is to disconnect the ECM. I do this sometimes....sometimes I don't. Welding is not likely to hurt any of the sensors.
Nope. The weld doesn't affect the aluminum in a meaningful way. You're not focusing the heat ON the aluminum...you're focusing it on the steel. Also, you're welding with a different medium than aluminum so it won't stick/adhere with the aluminum. Anyway, the peripheral heat going into the aluminum gets transferred away very quickly, and doesn't damage the threads. At least not for me. I never even need to chase the threads. I simply fill the hole in short "hits", so my pile doesn't sag to one side, then stick the nut on my pile and weld it on. Back out the stud and the hole is ready for a new bolt. I haven't had to use a Heli-coil yet.
i wanted to chime in and say my experience echos toms.
im surprised that welder didnt get the job done. im guessing he didnt have the experience he first relayed.
perhaps he only had flux and that causes more splatter. even still, draping fireproof coveralls around the wels protects from splatter.
i always unplug battery.
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; Oct 10, 2017 at 10:14 AM.
Just thought I'd share another progress pic-almost have it down to the manifold. So far I've still been able to get most of the bolts out without too much fuss.
Looking' good so far.
That engine needs more frequent oil changes. You see all the sludge/carbon casting the top of your heads (inside the rocker area)? That shouldn't be there. It's not alarming...just an FYI.
Thanks for the advice Tom-I just bought her so no clue what maintenance was like before. I’ll be sure to keep oil changed though. Soon on my list is transmission and rear differential fluid changes, too. Want to start fresh and know it’s done.
I think the welder was mostly worried about getting his vice grips on and breaking it free. I’m happy he’s willing to admit when he’s not comfortable with something rather than diving in and screwing it up. Since I was planning a tear down like this anyway, it’s not really even much of an inconvenience honestly. I’m happy to be pulling things apart and seeing the condition of parts this way. Just taking a while. Wanted to get an early start. He’s coming Saturday but didn’t want to get stuck on something without the time to work through it.
Thanks for the advice Tom-I just bought her so no clue what maintenance was like before. I’ll be sure to keep oil changed though. Soon on my list is transmission and rear differential fluid changes, too. Want to start fresh and know it’s done.
Copy that. You may have seen my post many times before, but oil has detergent in it, and changing it per proper interval, over time will clean your engine. Evidence? Here is a pic of the valve train area (through the oil-fill hole) of a poorly maintained '89 I bought last spring for a 'Vette Kart project. It looks pretty much just like yours does and needs good PM going forward.
In contrast, have a look at the same spot in my '92, which has had nothing more complicated than proper M1 oil changes when the indicator says to:
Copy that. You may have seen my post many times before, but oil has detergent in it, and changing it per proper interval, over time will clean your engine. Evidence? Here is a pic of the valve train area (through the oil-fill hole) of a poorly maintained '89 I bought last spring for a 'Vette Kart project. It looks pretty much just like yours does and needs good PM going forward.
Nice guys! Yup I use M1 synthetic in all my vehicles-I buy it in bulk, literally, and just have a shelf of the stuff in my garage. Glad to know that it's a good choice
Kenmohr, that is a nice looking engine! Tom, I'm sure yours is nice looking too I just can't see much of it
Got the bolt out! Welder broke it off three times while getting it out but just welded another but on and kept going. He was impressed with how difficult it was lol.
One friendly piece of advice... Based on how the rocker arms look - it's a pretty safe bet to say that the car was not very well maintained. I'm betting that applies to the cooling system as well. Since you are going to be installing fresh coolant after pulling the intake - go the extra mile, and after you reinstall the intake - pull the two block drains and let everything drain out. You'd be surprised how much crud some of us have gotten out of our C4 motors when the block drains were pulled....
If you really want to go nuts - pull the two heater hoses, and do a quick flush of the heater core as well.
One last thing - you're certainly on the right track with changing out tranny and diff fluid - but I'd strongly recommend Adding Brake Fluid to the list of fluids to be flushed !!! It's arguably the most important fluid I the car !!!
Thanks for all the advice Purple-I'm working through everything on this car slowly.
On that note, mom and baby were away all day so I got a chance to get a lot of work done. I sand blasted the intake, runners, and valve covers. Painted the valve covers to match the intake, and got everything back together and looking nice. I'm pretty darned proud of how this thing is coming together.
2014 Corvette
