Need Help Removing a C4 Differential
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Need Help Removing a C4 Differential
Fellow Vetters:
I have an oil seal leak on my 91's differential and need to remove it to replace the seals and put a new set of gears in. I can see several ways to do it, but they all have a degree of danger involved. Is there a relatively safe way for one person to remove it without risking life and limb? FYI, I've already removed everything under the car so clearance is not an issue. Thanks in advance to all who respond.
SnorT91Man
I have an oil seal leak on my 91's differential and need to remove it to replace the seals and put a new set of gears in. I can see several ways to do it, but they all have a degree of danger involved. Is there a relatively safe way for one person to remove it without risking life and limb? FYI, I've already removed everything under the car so clearance is not an issue. Thanks in advance to all who respond.
SnorT91Man
#2
Melting Slicks
Fellow Vetters:
I have an oil seal leak on my 91's differential and need to remove it to replace the seals and put a new set of gears in. I can see several ways to do it, but they all have a degree of danger involved. Is there a relatively safe way for one person to remove it without risking life and limb? FYI, I've already removed everything under the car so clearance is not an issue. Thanks in advance to all who respond.
SnorT91Man
I have an oil seal leak on my 91's differential and need to remove it to replace the seals and put a new set of gears in. I can see several ways to do it, but they all have a degree of danger involved. Is there a relatively safe way for one person to remove it without risking life and limb? FYI, I've already removed everything under the car so clearance is not an issue. Thanks in advance to all who respond.
SnorT91Man
One after note CAR MUST BE SUPPORTED BY FRAME/BODY NOT SUSPENSION
Last edited by s carter; 10-14-2017 at 10:32 PM.
#3
Melting Slicks
Once you have the Leaf Spring un-tensioned, by taking a floor jack and grab as much of the end of the spring as you can, Jack the Spring up just enough to take pressure off the Spring bolt. Remove the bolt (keeping yourself from under spring) once bolt is out stand back and slowly lower spring end. repeat on other side. with spring released you now remove the Spring and gain access to the Camber arm bolts, so can get them out of the way then it's just a matter Popping the Tie rods Disconnecting Drive shaft, "C" channel break loosen the Wing bolts place a floor jack under rear support remove the two wing bolts and you can have probably the most Inept help you by lowering the Floor jack while you guide it to the ground.
One after note CAR MUST BE SUPPORTED BY FRAME/BODY NOT SUSPENSION
One after note CAR MUST BE SUPPORTED BY FRAME/BODY NOT SUSPENSION
I removed the whole rear diff suspension assembly in one go, remove exhaust / mufflers and release the spring tension. Unbolt the sway bar links to hub, then unbolt the gearbox to diff beam. Unbolt the brake hose (or leave brake calipers supported coat hanger wire works good) and detach the hand brake cables. Unbolt the bracket that the dog bones (trailing arms) are attached to the body, then the final two bat wing bolts with preferably a trolley jack under diff and lower it down.
Is quite easy to remove and refit the diff by yourself, bring it to a car wash that has a high pressure cleaning hose and it will clean the years of gunk of in no time. If its greasy use some degreaser.
I recommend you check the bushings on the lower spindle rods, they wear badly. Replace all universal joints while you have access to them, they are a heavy wear item especially the half shaft uni joints.
Good Luck
#5
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
I removed the whole rear diff suspension assembly in one go, remove exhaust / mufflers and release the spring tension. Unbolt the sway bar links to hub, then unbolt the gearbox to diff beam... leave brake calipers supported coat hanger wire works good) Unbolt the bracket that the dog bones (trailing arms) are attached to the body, then the final two bat wing bolts with preferably a trolley jack under diff and lower it down.
Is quite easy to remove and refit the diff by yourself, bring it to a car wash that has a high pressure cleaning hose and it will clean the years of gunk of in no time. If its greasy use some degreaser.
I pull the whole assy too. Change the U-joints, diff oil and washers...clean everything.
Notes adding to what gerardvg said:
*if you pull/hang the calipers (on a later car) you don't need to remove the park brake cables.
*I pull the "dog bones" by zipping out the three bolts holding the dog bone mounting braket to the car body/frame. No nuts to hold, easy and fast.
*You don't need to release spring pressure. Support the knuckle w/a jack, unbolt that side shock, lower. Do the other side the same. After you pull the assy out, there will be so little spring tension left, you can simply unbolt the outer spring bolts w/no issues.