Driver side power terminal/block quick question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 343
Likes: 18
From: Newport News VA
Driver side power terminal/block quick question
Hey all,
Was doing a little electrical clean up today on the driver side power block by the battery and noticed one of the red wires was hanging by a thread at what I think is a capacitor. The rest of the wire on both sides looks to be in decent shape, so I can just reconnect and move on. But my question is, each of these wires has a black rubber/plastic piece on it, two marked with a "20" and the others are marked "751" and "757". I'm assuming these are capacitors, but I fully admit my electrical ignorance and wanted some guidance from the group? Electrical learning is my new project so don't judge too hard if this is a super simple question... All of the wires that connect into the block post these pieces are all marked on the wires as fusible links. Any input would be appreciated
Side thought. I'm curious if this was one of the contributors to a break down I had. Car was running fine and then on the highway just slowly started to drop revs until it shut down. Car would crank but no start after. Since then have replaced rotor, wires, MAF, Fuel pump, FPR, injectors (due to poor ohm) all for various reasons. Pretty sure O2 sensor wire needs replacing, some of the casing is pulled off.
Was doing a little electrical clean up today on the driver side power block by the battery and noticed one of the red wires was hanging by a thread at what I think is a capacitor. The rest of the wire on both sides looks to be in decent shape, so I can just reconnect and move on. But my question is, each of these wires has a black rubber/plastic piece on it, two marked with a "20" and the others are marked "751" and "757". I'm assuming these are capacitors, but I fully admit my electrical ignorance and wanted some guidance from the group? Electrical learning is my new project so don't judge too hard if this is a super simple question... All of the wires that connect into the block post these pieces are all marked on the wires as fusible links. Any input would be appreciated
Side thought. I'm curious if this was one of the contributors to a break down I had. Car was running fine and then on the highway just slowly started to drop revs until it shut down. Car would crank but no start after. Since then have replaced rotor, wires, MAF, Fuel pump, FPR, injectors (due to poor ohm) all for various reasons. Pretty sure O2 sensor wire needs replacing, some of the casing is pulled off.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 343
Likes: 18
From: Newport News VA
Ok, had a nube moment. It is one of the 0.5 fusible links coming from the junction block. Dug through an old electrical diagnosis service manual I forgot I had... The link broke on the .5 terminal side, leaving the blunt end of the link and the 2.0 wire. So my next dumb question is: with it being a .5 (20 gauge) coming off of the terminal block that looks like it converts to a 2.0 (14 gauge) according to the manual, what fusible link should I use? All the ones I am searching have the same gauge wire on both sides. So I assume use the larger 2.0 (14 gauge)?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 343
Likes: 18
From: Newport News VA
Standard practice for selecting fuse links is to use 2 gauges smaller for the link than the wire being protected. Ie, a 12ga wire is protected by a 16ga link, and a 16ga wire by a 20ga link.
The plastic "barrel" thing is the splice between the wire and the link. Not the link itself. Insulation on the factory links is usually a dark red or orangish color, and the links are about 3"-4" long.
The plastic "barrel" thing is the splice between the wire and the link. Not the link itself. Insulation on the factory links is usually a dark red or orangish color, and the links are about 3"-4" long.
Awesome, thank you for the clarification. So just to be sure I understand correctly: in a case of an overload, the actual fusible link wire will melt, thus protecting the rest of the circuit? So the portion that melts away is not in the splice?
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 761
Likes: 68
All fuses whether a 'link' or a 'fuse' are designed to prevent fire(s) !!!
Links are used to lower voltage drops - typically in circuits that will never 'blow' a fuse: like the starter solenoid etc. So say you add an MSD. To fuse or to use fusible link - what say you and then I will answer .............
Links are used to lower voltage drops - typically in circuits that will never 'blow' a fuse: like the starter solenoid etc. So say you add an MSD. To fuse or to use fusible link - what say you and then I will answer .............
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 343
Likes: 18
From: Newport News VA
Thank you all for the information. I bought the car to learn and learn how to do things right, wiring is definitely new to me. I believe the link that broke was one of the links to the cooling fans (since the FSM only shows 0.5 links leading to the cooling fans). Will post more when I replace everything this weekend.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
Thank you all for the information. I bought the car to learn and learn how to do things right, wiring is definitely new to me. I believe the link that broke was one of the links to the cooling fans (since the FSM only shows 0.5 links leading to the cooling fans). Will post more when I replace everything this weekend.
and don't be afraid to post some photos. please.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 343
Likes: 18
From: Newport News VA
Just wanted to throw out a quick follow up. Had a hard time finding new fusible link. So I just cut and stripped the the existing wires since they were still in good shape and just used a butt connector. It was a 14 to 18 gauge splice and just used the larger 16-18 waterproof connector. Crushed and heated everything until the shrink had a tight hold of the wire. Car is up and running well. Wire brushed all the terminal ends and post to make sure there was a good ground. Added some new wire wrap in for good protection. I'd throw some pics in, but it literally looks like a butt connector on a wire, nothing really special to see.
In the process of taking out the battery box, found some surface rust on the frame, sanded it down and hit it with some Rustoleum. Kinda makes me want to go ahead and take out the wheel well protectors and clean up the rest of the frame!
Out of curiosity, has anyone relocated the battery to the rear hatch area? Having that battery out really frees up some space under the hood. Seems like it would make a nice area to relocate some of the relays and other wiring to get them away from the heat more.
In the process of taking out the battery box, found some surface rust on the frame, sanded it down and hit it with some Rustoleum. Kinda makes me want to go ahead and take out the wheel well protectors and clean up the rest of the frame!
Out of curiosity, has anyone relocated the battery to the rear hatch area? Having that battery out really frees up some space under the hood. Seems like it would make a nice area to relocate some of the relays and other wiring to get them away from the heat more.
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Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,747
Likes: 1,642
From: Fairfax Virginia
Relocating the battery
I had issues with the stud where the fusible links are getting their power. The stud on my car was very dirty and had corrosion on it. I simply removed each wire and cleaned the terminals to look nice and new. I uses a wire brush and cleaned the stud then re-assembled the wires on it and secured it with the nut and coated the whole stud and connections with die-electric grease to prevent further corrosion.
As to re-locating the battery to the back of the car. To do this properly you need long heavy gauge wires to run the power to the starter. I have a 1968 427 Convertible Corvette which has the battery behind the driver. When I replaced the battery cables a few years ago I was amazed at the size of the wire going from the battery Positive to the Starter post. The wire looks like a welding cable as opposed to the tiny cables in my 1988 with it's L98.
In the interest of simplicity I would probably stick with the original design unless you are racing and need to balance the car a bit better.
As to re-locating the battery to the back of the car. To do this properly you need long heavy gauge wires to run the power to the starter. I have a 1968 427 Convertible Corvette which has the battery behind the driver. When I replaced the battery cables a few years ago I was amazed at the size of the wire going from the battery Positive to the Starter post. The wire looks like a welding cable as opposed to the tiny cables in my 1988 with it's L98.
In the interest of simplicity I would probably stick with the original design unless you are racing and need to balance the car a bit better.
