C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Cooling Down a L98, Is it Possible?

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Old Oct 19, 2017 | 10:29 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by vader86
I have done it all, and the DeWitts makes the real difference.

I agree!! My L-98 runs 190 in the summer with the A/C on. I also installed the Dewitts fan assembly. Expensive but; works perfectly.
Good Luck
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Old Oct 20, 2017 | 11:40 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by TBSS/85vette
The best improvement I've had was removing the stamped steel rockers and going with full stainless steel roller rockers. Everything that I had read about reducing friction which reduces heat turned out to be true.
Wow! I am sure the roller rockers are an improvement, but seriously, how much heat and friction is generated by the stock stamped rockers? Seems there may have been another issue going on...
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Old Oct 20, 2017 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DGXR
the radiator outflow temperature will represent the temperature of the engine? My understanding is that the temperature of the radiator outflow and the temperature of the engine will nearly always be different
My local cooling expert says radiator output is around 10* cooler than input.

Drill 3-4 small holes (~1/8") in the thermostat for more flow, or use a Robt Shaw; my final WORKING solution, w/ a stock fan activated at 190.
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Old Oct 20, 2017 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DGXR
Wow! I am sure the roller rockers are an improvement, but seriously, how much heat and friction is generated by the stock stamped rockers? Seems there may have been another issue going on...
More than you think. My oil temps are down anywhere from 10-15 degrees. I don't see high temps at all now. On the hottest day this summer the highest temp I had seen was 205 degrees and that was after coming off I90 and stopping at a red light at the end of the ramp.This is with the stock radiator and a 160" thermostat.
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Old Oct 21, 2017 | 09:25 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by WW7
My car runs at 178 to 182 degrees all year long as long as the car is moving at least 30 mph.( My engine has never seen 200 degrees) I have a Dewitts radiator, a Dewitt's high speed fan , a 180 degree stat , a Stewart high flow water pump, and have my fan programmed to come on at 196 degrees , and go off at 180 degrees...This combination is the best I have found and the only time my car goes above 182 degrees is when I have an extended stay at a stop light... Even when the temps go up at a light , they go down to 180 degrees again in less then a minute after I start moving...Like mentioned above, the Dewitt's radiator is what makes the big difference, I'm also running a 383 stroker in my 89 which runs a little hotter then a stock 350.. The larger and more efficent Dewitt's radiator also stops the temps from rising as quickly when the car is stopped...
I tried using a 160 degree stat, and my car would run at 160 degrees in cold/cool weather with the Dewitt's radiator, this is way to cold for a engine to run. The 180 is perfect with this combination.. ..WW
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Agree with the above. Changing your thermostat to a lower temp won’t help in traffic unless you change the fan on temperature in the program. I’m running a three row radiator, 180 t-stat and fans set to come on at 205 and go off at 180. My temp stays at 180 on the highway all day long in 100+ temps. I don’t recommend lowering the temps any further, you need to reach above 200 occasionally to burn off oil contaminants.
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Old Jan 20, 2019 | 12:43 PM
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removed, wrong thread

Last edited by chevymans 77; Jan 20, 2019 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2019 | 05:20 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Ahnenerbe
I know this has been hashed and rehashed many times, but I could not find a definitive answer. I, like many of you, think the L98 runs too hot for comfort. Is there any way to actually bring this engine to 180f max? I am thinking a bigger, 3 row radiator, and lower tstat should be enough to keep the operating temps lower. Is this logical, or am I missing something?

As a side note, I want to express how important it is for C4 owners to make sure you clean your radiator are of debris. I ignored this instruction for awhile, did it this weekend and was blown away by the amount or garbage and debris in there. Car still climbed to 230 easy in traffic, then fan brings temp to around 210. I would like it to never get to 230, if possible.
I replaced my radiator with a stock new unit and I have a 160 oF T-stat and a Hypertech thermomaster calpak. My temps range from 170-190 oF. I'm not recommending the Hypertech but just letting you know you can program the temperature the fan comes on. I had to get a Hypertech because I absolutely could not find a stock Calpack for my 1986. So you can get lower temps with a stock radiator and a programmed Prom.
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 05:09 PM
  #28  
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in post 21 with the engine pic, you must get rid of the rubber gas hose and glass filter
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 05:50 AM
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I remember a Hot Rod magazine article. They rebuilt a late model Camaro and it was running over 210. After trying a bunch of stuff they finally called someone that said the late model head is designed to run hot. I used a low temperature switch and 180 thermostat and my car ran between 190 and 215. Remember we don't like seeing 238 degrees but chevy will tell you the car is not over heating until 250.
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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 03:52 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jseremba
I remember a Hot Rod magazine article. They rebuilt a late model Camaro and it was running over 210. After trying a bunch of stuff they finally called someone that said the late model head is designed to run hot. I used a low temperature switch and 180 thermostat and my car ran between 190 and 215. Remember we don't like seeing 238 degrees but chevy will tell you the car is not over heating until 250.
If your system is clean, that's what it runs without your add ons
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Old Jan 24, 2019 | 08:01 PM
  #31  
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Ol zombie thread again lol
Low temp fan switch will help.
if I had to do it over I wouldnt bother with the spal fan unless it was a nice dual unit
Id grab the biggest late model electric GM fan I could find...say off a V8 luxury car or truck. They move tons of air and last practically forever.

Some guys pull them off of 4 and 6 cyl production cars and rave..get one that cools a larger V8 and wire them accordingly.
2200 cfm spal is Ok but would hate to get stuck in gridlock traffic in the summer think eventually it would struggle to keep temps in line.
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Old Jan 29, 2019 | 01:24 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Cruisinfanatic
If your system is clean, that's what it runs without your add ons
I think I've said this before, but...

HAVING THE SYSTEM CLEAN IS ALL YOU NEED TO KEEP THE CAR COOL UNLESS YOU HAVE SIGNIFICANT MODS.

I cleaned out my radiator and run a stock tstat and never run over 200 with A/C on and in summer heat. Stop and go traffic is different, of course, but the fan still kicks on at 225 and cools it right back down. Running a colder tstat won't change ANYTHING in traffic and you don't need it (and the car runs worse) at speed. I ran a 160 for a while and the car stayed at 180 in summer heat. In the winter it never reached more than 162, which is too cold for the engine to run. You increase wear and it doesn't run as well, at least not without other modifications.
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