Dexcool vs Regular Anitfreeze
A month or so ago I discovered that my truck's coolent had jelled! :eek: I did a thorough flush and replaced with the old green stuff. The vette is fine, no sign of any problems, so I left it alone. Not sure why it jelled. It did not seem to overheat at all.
A month or so ago I discovered that my truck's coolent had jelled! :eek: I did a thorough flush and replaced with the old green stuff. The vette is fine, no sign of any problems, so I left it alone. Not sure why it jelled. It did not seem to overheat at all.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
FYI: Green or Orange stuff is there to prevent boil-over as well as stop corrosion. May people forget the last part,...... Use the correct amount, regardless of your climate zone.




The short of it is that it does not do as good of a job as does the old green stuff in terms of either lubrication or cooling.
Jelled orange stuff is caused by not getting all the green stuff out. (Flush not good enough.)
The "gelling" seems to be caused by a series of events with DexCool. First it seems there must be air in the system and heat. Speculation is rampant on what occurs next, but best guess is cavitation at hot spots combined with sealing tablets and perhaps some rust picked up in the system. Anyway, state change occurs and DexCool becomes what some folks have coined "DeathCool". It can be nearly impossible to clean once this happens.
Always run DexCool full with a new pressure cap and no leaks in the system. GM recommends the overflow level should be at "full hot" when cold.
I have heard that the jell phenomenon results from orange and green mixing.
I have an article on "Red" vs "Green". Can e-mail if you like?
When he say's abrasive, I guess he refers to water pump failure. An element of the green stuff is being blamed for water pump failure. I think it was the phosphorus.
FYI: Green or Orange stuff is there to prevent boil-over as well as stop corrosion. May people forget the last part,...... Use the correct amount, regardless of your climate zone.
GM/Texaco recommend to never run DexCool below 50/50 concentration Not sure why, but would not take any chances.
Couple other notes:
GM does not recommend using DexCool in pre 94 cars. Personally I agree with the post above that recommend not using DexCool in a car that did not come with it.
Texaco informed me that if the pH falls below 7.0, the DexCool should be flushed.
A positive spring pressure vacuum valve pressure cap should always be used with DexCool, these are not common and may not have come with the car. Stant makes a couple versions, and GM makes them now as well.
If DexCool is used in an engine that came with ‘green’ the life expectancy is reduced to two years.
If DexCool is mixed with green, the life expectancy is reduced to two years.
DexCool must be in contact with a surface to protect it from corrosion.
‘Green’ silicates "plate out’ on to the surfaces of the water jacket, radiator, heater core, etc., and will provide protection from corrosion even if the coolant is not contacting the surface.
The useful life of ‘green’ is two years.
I run 60% distilled / deionized water and 40% green in my 89. And it is flushed every two years, if I let it go that long.
I run 50% DexCool to 50% water in my 99 truck. It has been flushed 3 times so far; once the dealer said it "failed" the test (when I started trying to find out about DexCool), once it failed my pH test, and once during warranty engine maintenance. GM has a neat machine for this flushing, which is quite impressive and quite costly for the person paying for the flush.

My 95 came from the factory with Dexcool... it had a supplement added to the owners manual stating the change half way through the production year and specificed not to use the green stuff.
















