mrodoc

1994 4A. I am going to stary installin my Dana 44 with new 4.11 The FSM calls for urethane sealet between the c beam and diff and c beam and trans tail housing. Is it necessary to use urethane or can another sealer work. Last night I stopped at a couple of auto parts stores and they didn't carry the urethane (I live in a small town). When I changed out my torque converter I just used RTV to reassemble. But I'm having second thoughts since this diff will be taking more of a beating. If you've done this What have you done? Thoughts?

WVZR-1

See a local windshield installer and see if they'll sell you a tube of their urethane window-weld sealant. 3M branded stuff is fairly expensive and maybe over-kill. From a mobile installer that doesn't pay for his supplies might be very inexpensive!!

Check maybe also a local auto body supply store or body shop. They'll understand.

Years ago I believe the most mentioned adhesive was "liquid nails" - I believe you need to be primarily concerned with sealing and NOT an adhesive. RTV maybe.

Used 3M Window-Weld previously maybe just because it was handy. Did you buy or fabricate 'beam plates' for the install? I would buy or fabricate if you're not rushed.

mrodoc

I got all parts, diveshaft, c-beam, from the guy I purchesed the diff from. He was parting out 1 1998.

Vic'89

What is the reason for the sealer ?

Vic

383vett

It's for anticorrosion effects. Don't need it unless you drive a lot on snowy, salty roads. Had mine off and on many, many times with no sealer. No problems.

Vic'89

Thanks, I have R&R'ed mine a few times and never installed the sealer.

Vic

mrodoc

Thanks. That sttles it. I live in South Florida.

Mr. Peabody

But the two beam plates that WVZR-1 is talking about are not a stock item. They are an aftermarket item that add significant stiffness to C-beam where it bolts to the trans and to the diff. Expensive little items to purchase but worth it. A number of folks have made their own.

C409

..... Or buy some grade 8 USS flat washers for the beam bolts and save yourself $200 ... I have never seen a C-beam fail that was not collision related .....

383vett

The stock setup worked for me. Open end 18mm wrench to hold the tranny bolt nuts from above. Use 18mm socket with an impact wrench and torque the two bolts to 55 ft/lbs. 21mm open end wrench and socket for the differential bolts. Impact and torque to 60 ft/lbs. Just push the open end wrenches out when done. Never a problem or concern.

WVZR-1

Regarding the 'beam plates' - a fellow local here doing a D44 swap purchased 3 C-beams before he got one that didn't have the bores elongated on one end or the other, the 3d actually had some elongation but not near as bad as first 2.

He asked about the 'beam plates' and with his set of circumstances and wanting to do a 'once and done' I mentioned using them might show some merit.

Barrier

Hi, Try a Marine Supply Store. They use Urethane Sealers and Glues.
Barrier

mtwoolford

on my 96 I used "Liquid Nails", contractor grade

PLRX

I've removed my axle on both C4s and never applied it. No problems never got loose and no shifter movements.

mtwoolford

that's a weak link; mine had elongated / egg shaped bolt holes in the C-beam; after I got a new C beam, I fabbed up my own beam plates; also instead of the stock metric bolts; I used the next size up US standard bolts (forget what size) which took up some of the potential slop between the C beam holes and mounting bolts; I also bolted the beam plates to the c beam and if there's any potential movement, the mounting bolts will hit the hard steel of the beam plate and not the soft aluminum of the C beam.

and as I said I used "Liquid Nails", contractor grade