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im looking for one I was thinking about just going for a 85 since I know they don’t have the vats system but I just found a 87 that’s just what I’m looking for
I wouldn't bother with VATS. It gets people riled up and looking at it for a problem when there usually isn't one. Wait till you have a problem and we can start a bypass but for whatever reason, first sign of a problem, VATS is assumed to be the guilty party. That is why I asked if you have a problem or are trying to make VATS an issue.
Don't let the vats influence your decision. It's like a dollar for a resistor and $5 for every resistor. Just unplug the connector under the steering wheel and splice in the appropriate resistor (measured across the key pellet). It winds up costing almost no money and almost no time.
Don't let the vats influence your decision. It's like a dollar for a resistor and $5 for every resistor. Just unplug the connector under the steering wheel and splice in the appropriate resistor (measured across the key pellet). It winds up costing almost no money and almost no time.
You can also get a 'dongle' with the correct resistor in it, unplug the connector noted at the bottom of the steering column noted and plug it in to bypass the key resistor. It does not take out the VATS system, only the need for the system to read the resistor on the key.
To take it out completely, newer C4's can have it programmed out of the computer while older ones it's not as easy.
I have a dongle on mine, mainly because when I got the car I was having a number of issues I was trying to sort out and wanted to remove possible causes one-at-a-time till it was stabile. I think I had a key with bad resistor contacts in it, at least this way it can be put on or off without cutting any wiring.
I agree though why worry about something till it causes issues. More times than not most reports I've seen say cleaning up the contacts in the ignition or on the key fix a majority of VATs claimed issues.
You can also get a 'dongle' with the correct resistor in it, unplug the connector noted at the bottom of the steering column noted and plug it in to bypass the key resistor. It does not take out the VATS system, only the need for the system to read the resistor on the key.
To take it out completely, newer C4's can have it programmed out of the computer while older ones it's not as easy.
I have a dongle on mine, mainly because when I got the car I was having a number of issues I was trying to sort out and wanted to remove possible causes one-at-a-time till it was stabile. I think I had a key with bad resistor contacts in it, at least this way it can be put on or off without cutting any wiring.
I agree though why worry about something till it causes issues. More times than not most reports I've seen say cleaning up the contacts in the ignition or on the key fix a majority of VATs claimed issues.
How does your "dongle" vary from the previous poster's method other than costing more?
is vats a common and annoying problem on the c4 and how do you bypass it ?
don't let the vats influence buying decision. Just do the normal used car checks and get what you want. You wouldn't buy it if it didn't start and run well (I'm assuming......unless you're like me and find fixing basket cases stupidly satisfying). Once you have the car measure your vats resistance on the working key. There's like 15 different possibilities. Write that number down, buy a new matching vats blank key(s) off the bay, have it cut, keep it in your wallet while driving the vette.
Reading this thread, it occurs to me that wiring in a resistor will make the VATS system think that the key is in the ignition all the time. Some of these cars have programming procedures that require the key in the ignition. Any possibility of issues here? Such as, the alarm won't arm if the system thinks the key is in the ignition? Or, changing one of the PKE door lock/unlock settings requires the key in the ignition while turning the PKE system on/off requires the key be out of the ignition?
My VATS system is working fine just wanted to ask about permanently wiring in a resistor to bypass, and possible issues resulting. Thanks
How does your "dongle" vary from the previous poster's method other than costing more?
It's all prewired including the correct connector on it. Unplug the wires going into the steering column and plug this into the wiring going up under the dash - done. No cutting, no splicing only unplug and plug - quick and easy and you don't have to crawl under the dash and try and solder something into the wiring.
This is from someone who was bashed by a truck and still has residual back issues - quick and easy to accomplish.
Originally Posted by DGXR
Reading this thread, it occurs to me that wiring in a resistor will make the VATS system think that the key is in the ignition all the time. Some of these cars have programming procedures that require the key in the ignition. Any possibility of issues here? Such as, the alarm won't arm if the system thinks the key is in the ignition? Or, changing one of the PKE door lock/unlock settings requires the key in the ignition while turning the PKE system on/off requires the key be out of the ignition?
My VATS system is working fine just wanted to ask about permanently wiring in a resistor to bypass, and possible issues resulting. Thanks
Hasn't been an issue with my 86 though the only alarm functions I have a the door locks. I've had the dongle on mine more than a couple of years just because I hate trying to crawl under the dash and no issues relating to it being there, at least none so far.
It's all prewired including the correct connector on it. Unplug the wires going into the steering column and plug this into the wiring going up under the dash - done. No cutting, no splicing only unplug and plug - quick and easy and you don't have to crawl under the dash and try and solder something into the wiring.
I "did the dongle" for my 89 as PM. For about 30 bucks it was worth it for removing "future hassle."
I haven't done my 91 yet. I heard they they "fixed" the issue for 91?
Last edited by billschroeder5842; Nov 30, 2017 at 07:52 PM.
Did they stop producing the lock cylinders or something ? Why bypass it at all, its easy to diagnose and easy to repair. I can steal any gm car (with the pre-97 steering column) through the tilt in like 20 seconds.
Did they stop producing the lock cylinders or something ? Why bypass it at all, its easy to diagnose and easy to repair. I can steal any gm car (with the pre-97 steering column) through the tilt in like 20 seconds.
Vats was a PITA from the start, and only got worse as the cars got older. I was happy as hell to eliminate it from my 89..But it's more complicated them just putting in a resister to bypass the signal.. There are 3 parts to eliminating Vats completely.. One is the resistor bypass at the base of the steering column, two is the "starter enable relay" behind the center dash that has to be bypassed , and the third is the "Cranking Fuel Enable" signal has to be eliminated from your chip.. If you don't do all three, any one of them can cause a no start situation later on...WW
Vats was a PITA from the start, and only got worse as the cars got older. I was happy as hell to eliminate it from my 89..But it's more complicated them just putting in a resister to bypass the signal.. There are 3 parts to eliminating Vats completely.. One is the resistor bypass at the base of the steering column, two is the "starter enable relay" behind the center dash that has to be bypassed , and the third is the "Cranking Fuel Enable" signal has to be eliminated from your chip.. If you don't do all three, any one of them can cause a no start situation later on...WW
Sounds like a hassle to bypass everything, particularly the fuel enable signal issue. More reason to keep the system operational in my opinion.
Vats was a PITA from the start, and only got worse as the cars got older. I was happy as hell to eliminate it from my 89..But it's more complicated them just putting in a resister to bypass the signal.. There are 3 parts to eliminating Vats completely.. One is the resistor bypass at the base of the steering column, two is the "starter enable relay" behind the center dash that has to be bypassed , and the third is the "Cranking Fuel Enable" signal has to be eliminated from your chip.. If you don't do all three, any one of them can cause a no start situation later on...WW
Was it a real problem? From what I see here, anytime that the car doesn't start, first suspect is the VATS. If it won't start, VATS. Never mind that the car is cranking but won't catch, we blame VATS and try to bypass it. Somehow along the way, we find the issue but I think that is what gets people more and more afraid of VATS. I don't say that VATS is perfect by a long shot. Sure, some of them are really VATS issues but there are many other causes for the non starting car beside VATS.
Last year my car developed a starting issue. I’d drive somewhere and then go to leave.... turn the key and nothing. Dash lights, no crank. Wait 10 minutes and it would fire up. It did it rarely. Then the frequency increased. I cleaned the lock cylinder, got a new key and the issue continued. Then I finally bypassed it. My problem was in the steering column. The vats wires that go up the steering column are very thin gauge and 30 years took their toll I think. Bypassing a key read issue is super simple. There I s a two wire connector at the base of the column. Simply solder in the correct resistor(s) and vats will always be happy.