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I have an 88 and was in the process of replacing the diaphragm on my FPR when i noticed that the vacuum line going to the EGR solenoid from the EGR is kinked. I don't have any codes and other than a higher than normal idle the car seems to run fine. I planned on looking for bad vacuum lines while i had the plenum off that may have been causing the idle issue. I have a new EGR valve and was going to replace it also but am wondering what issues this kinked line may have caused. With no vacuum to the EGR does it stay open or closed?
I have an 88 and was in the process of replacing the diaphragm on my FPR when i noticed that the vacuum line going to the EGR solenoid from the EGR is kinked. I don't have any codes and other than a higher than normal idle the car seems to run fine. I planned on looking for bad vacuum lines while i had the plenum off that may have been causing the idle issue. I have a new EGR valve and was going to replace it also but am wondering what issues this kinked line may have caused. With no vacuum to the EGR does it stay open or closed?
If I remember correctly, with no vacuum to the EGR valve, this means it is in the closed position and no exhaust flows through. Vacuum applied to the top of the valve would open the port in the intake and allow exhaust into the intake.
It should Idle fine since exhaust gas isn't being recirculated. What you might see is higher head/combustion chamber temps and possible increased detonation, especially if you are running a stock L98 cam. Many delete the EGR function and don't experience issues, but it is a case by case basis it seems.
I have an 88 and was in the process of replacing the diaphragm on my FPR when i noticed that the vacuum line going to the EGR solenoid from the EGR is kinked. I don't have any codes and other than a higher than normal idle the car seems to run fine. I planned on looking for bad vacuum lines while i had the plenum off that may have been causing the idle issue. I have a new EGR valve and was going to replace it also but am wondering what issues this kinked line may have caused. With no vacuum to the EGR does it stay open or closed?
EGR is normally closed via spring tension, the ecm controls it via vacuum to raise the EGR. Allowing some exhaust back into the inlet manifold, there is a temperature sensor that will set an EGR code. (Usually after a while on a highway) if the EGR doesn't open hot exhaust gasses wont reach the sensor and the EGR error code results.
If the EGR valve sticks open, stalling rough or higher idle can result.
My 1988 Coupe failed the state emissions test one day and that was how I learned I had a bad EGR. The test showed the NOX was off the chart so I replaced my EGR. My idle had been a bit rough but I knew I had a bad injector and wrote it off as nothing unusual.
What I found was that the Vacuum Solenoid that controls the EGR was not getting any vacuum so the valve never opened up. After connecting the solenoid back up to vacuum then I found the solenoid was faulty as well.
When I disassembled the intake system I found the EGR passages were plugged with hard carbon. I have no idea how the carbon formed but it was a pain in the butt to clean out the EGR parts.
If your hose is kinked going to the solenoid then you might want to take a longer look at the entire EGR system. You might find plugged passages like I did from an EGR that was not working for a while. There are many who recommend removing the EGR system as opposed to fixing it. I find that keeping this engine close to stock and everything functional that it is a reliable car to use and own.
I found that not only was the vacuum line kinked but it had a hole in it between the kink and the vacuum port. I tested the old EGR and it was definitely bad. I replaced it fixed the hose and put it all back together. I still have a vacuum leak somewhere else that I have to track down but ran out of hours yesterday. I am hoping I don't have a leak between the plenum and runners when I put that back together.
I found that not only was the vacuum line kinked but it had a hole in it between the kink and the vacuum port. I tested the old EGR and it was definitely bad. I replaced it fixed the hose and put it all back together. I still have a vacuum leak somewhere else that I have to track down but ran out of hours yesterday. I am hoping I don't have a leak between the plenum and runners when I put that back together.
with your 88 coming up on 30 years old, all vacuum and emissions rubber hoses and tubing are subject to old age. just because it looks good doesn't necessarily mean it is good. you may want to consider replacing everything under the hood, especially the hoses located in the forward, left hand cavity, where a bunch of vacuum and emission lines are located.
i replaced everything on my 85 - engine vacuum, fuel vapor emissions and associated vacuum, and even windshield wiper fluid lines - everything! i swear, my idle is much smoother, low RPM throttle response improved, and in general, everything just seems better. some of my tubing was so cracked and dry rotted, it's a wonder it retained the properties of rubber.