Hey everyone,

I have been searching for a new engine wiring harness for my 1991 auto with c68.

I have only been able to find a harness with the same spec as mine from a 1990.

Does anyone know what the difference if any is between a 1990 and 1991?

Thank you!

 

By part# they're certainly different and if you intended a complete harness the C68 and the AT is important. Is there a particular reason you want a complete harness?

If your '91 were original then down near the C100 connector you might find a tape wrapped around it with an identifier of "0867" for a C68 car.

There's currently one on eBay from a responsible seller. I don't see the tag on his snapshot but maybe it would be worth asking.

Search 12080867 on eBay.

I did notice your location!

If that tag isn't on a harness you're shopping I'd be very reluctant with a buy. Would or could a '90 work? Maybe!

*** I've compared the C100 connector wiring '90/'91 "side by side" and by circuit number and wire colors they're identical.

 

Thank you so much for the info!
Yes, Hong Kong is a long way away!
We converted the car in the early 90's to Right Hand Drive.
The reason I am asking is because I have a feeling somewhere during the conversion there is a wiring mis hap. I have been for years chasing a .167A parasitic drain, which I have chased to the two fusible links on the ignition circuit. I know one of the wires in the crimp is for the ignition, and the other I am not sure of.

I was hoping a new harness would set me up to clean up the wiring in the engine bay.

Cheers!

 

I thought this was likely a RHD conversion. I doubt that a new harness would correct the issue.

Do you have the FSM?

Can you remove the fusible links one at a time from the 'jump block' and make it go away? How many do you have on it? 6 maybe? '91 was the first year for Delayed Accessory Bus. Does it function as you believe it should? Also there would have been 1 fusible link on the starter solenoid for blower control. I'd think that circuit very likely in a RHD conversion gets modded substantially and I'd be inclined to start maybe there.

You have a disconnect on the battery now?

Where did all of the stuff in the AUX FUSE BOX #1 and 2 end up? The relays that were under the right side dash originally?

If you actually suspect a problem in the engine wiring harness I'd think you could disconnect it from the C100 block and anything that could have been would now be gone.

*************After searching your posts because your user ID looked familiar!!

Back in '12 you you mentioned thinking that you had it isolated to a fusible link that had a splice to 2 circuits in it. The accepted method to approach that is cut the 2 wires beyond the link and do 2. I would think that you could buy fusible links in Hong Kong with the ring terminal already applied. Here in the USA it's not an issue. Cutting one beyond the link I'd think would allow you to determine 'which' circuit is creating the draw. DAB and RAP are acronyms for similar function with different GM I believe. In '12 I mentioned RAP because at the time I was more familiar with some fleet vehicles that were newer.

 

I think you're right I'm afraid.
Yes I do have the FSM, an original red one and also the pdf version which is very handy.

I do have a disconnect on the battery which I consistently use.

The main fuse box is on the drivers side now, its pretty much a mirror image.
Aux Fuse 1 and 2 are now under the left side passenger glove box, pretty much same as before but on the other side.

Yes you have a very good memory! Thank you!
Have not met a single person here who knows what a fusible link is. Bang my head against the wall, they just don't understand.

Here is a picture of the fusible links disconnected. You can see most are two wires into one ring terminal.

I have checked on Amazon, and found reels of fusible links, but figured it would be best if I could find them with a ring terminal and ready to crimp fitting on the other end.

Do you think its a good idea to change out all of the links on the car, or is that not really an issue if they aren't burned?

Thanks again for all your help!

 

Your links are all separate and only married in to single ring for ease of assembly on the assembly line. I believe you leave 'as is' for the time being. I have an '89 harness here and on this one there is a heavier 2mm² wire and a 0.5mm² wire with a single ring X 2. On my harness the fusible link is 5" long. How easy is it for you to get deeper into the conduit say maybe 2"? On the OE fusible link it's joined at the wire with a very heavy specialty ferrule. You should be able to see and feel I'd think. Let me give this some thought. If the car were here I believe I know what I'd do.

You can remove the draw by removing one ring terminal from the jump block. Correct?

Take a look at this Delphi spec fusible link wire and poke around the webpage using the links to the left. Not suggesting you buy here but just wanted to familiarize you with newer Delphi spec. LOOK @ the FAQS

http://www.whiteproducts.com/fusible-specs.shtml

Don't forget the Delphi specs sheet

http://www.whiteproducts.com/images/...le%20Link).pdf

 

Where the phk do you get off making a statement like that? It makes about as much sense as me saying "Haven't met a person from Hong Kong that is capable of driving a vehicle with the steering wheel on the proper side of the car."

 

Don't flip out arbee. He has been working on this for years and is no closer to finding the problem than when he started. Now he seems to be considering replacement of the entire harness; you know, like its the wires fault. Sounds like punishment enough.

 

I guess you are correct. In five years you could have dismantled the entire car down to the last nut and bolt and rebuilt it. I do however take exception to someone who can't find a simple current draw in five years saying "people here don't know what a fusible link is".

 

Yeah I understand. Just keep in mind that if your looking for offense you can find it in almost every thread.

 

Sorry, I didn't mean to offend you or anyone. However if you read what I said it was that I have yet to meet someone who knows what a fusible link is. And yes thats true, most of the cars here don't use them, and very very few American cars left in Hong Kong. I know plenty of mechanics and garages here. Perhaps I should have clarified, in that a fusible link in a wire form, rather than fuse form.

 

Thanks, I'll have a look at the site.

Yes the draw disappears once I disconnect the two wires, one of which is the ignition switch. I will split them up with a new terminal ring, and see if I can figure out where the other link goes to.

Another question, if you don't mind. Do you have to use a fusible link for the charging cable from the alternator to the junction block, and or battery?

I have just upgraded the charging wire, with one from the alternator to the junction block, from the alternator to the battery, and battery to junction block.

Thanks again

 

If that was your intent then I offer a thousand pardons.

 

You don't have to. The car will work fine without it, but you absolutely should. Without it there will probably be a fire if something causes that circuit to short.

 

Have you tried pulling out fuses one at a time to try to isolated the source of the draw ?

 

Where was the battery relocated to and also the 'jump block'? When the RHD was done would you think there were any extensions done in any of the primary leads after the fusible links.

Once you snip the fusible link near the ring terminal I'd think it will make the draw much easier to trace. The larger 2 wire is to the ignition switch it seems and the other when snipped I'd think would be very easy to determine with a check at the fuse block which circuits are effected.

I believe you want to duplicate the charging circuit as closely as possible with the FSM 8A-30-1. What gauge wire did you use for the newer cables you're fabricating?

Good luck!!