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I just ordered my new long tubes but need ot get locking bolts and gaskets anyone have any opinions. I want to put them on then forget about them and sure as hell dont want to keep having to retighten them.
I used ARP header bolts, installed with ARP assembly lube and copper header gaskets. So far I haven't had them so much as loosen. Previously I had ARP stainless header bolts and installed them dry. Every one of them backed out.
I think the key is to get them VERY tight the first time, the copper gasket I believe acts somewhat like a lock washer, as it will always be trying to apply some pressure to the header, and thus the bolts. Those locking header bolts are supposed to be great, but I would be very leary of them because I know I might have to take mine apart again sometime and wouldn't want to fight that battle. Whatever you do, don't get 12 point bolts! You can't get them tight enough and they will dissappear.
Hehe, yeah I guess that's true. I have all ARP 6 points but one, the passenger rear on mine is a modified allen head bolt. It hasn't backed out either once I figured it out.
Get the Stage 8 locking bolts. The clips are a little bit of a pain to put on, but you never have to fool with them again. They're stainless steel too. Cost is around $40. Go to http://www.stage8.com, or: http://www.stage8.com/groovelok.htm for the exact part number.
I just use the bolts that came with the headers. Never had one back out on me and I am using the Mr Gasket copper header gasket with high temp Copper RTV. I did use some allen head header bolts, but find the ones that came with the headers easier to get a socket on.
From: Phx/but its a dry blast furnace kinda heat AZ
Re: Header bolts (FSTRNU)
I used the Stage8's on mine and they seem to be holding great. The locks will take some tricks to get them on in the tight clearance spaces but they aren't too bad. You may find that you will need to mix 6 and 12 point heads or just order all 12 point heads like I did. To tighten the rear most bolts on each side I had to take a box wrench and grind down the ring until it was very thin to clear the header tubes.