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An odd issue developed today-the steering wheel has developed a dead zone. The first 5 degrees I turn it (in either direction) does nothing, then it catches and turns like normal. It almost feels like something isn't tightened down properly, although I thought the wheel was splined so it couldn't slip?
To describe better what is happening:
I'm driving down the road, and need to make a right turn. I turn the wheel to the right. The first 5 degrees or so that I turn the wheel, the car does nothing, then the wheel 'catches' and continues to turn to the right like normal. As I come out of the turn, I begin to turn the wheel to the left (to straighten the front wheels). The first 5 degrees or so I turn the steering wheel, it slips, then catches and continues to work. There's a feeling like the steering wheel itself is loose, and once it hits a certain amount of pressure it will slip slightly within the same 5 degrees. I don't think it will slip more than that, but it still concerns me that the wheel feels loose. I don't want it to work itself loose while I'm driving. I hope this makes sense?
An odd issue developed today-the steering wheel has developed a dead zone. The first 5 degrees I turn it (in either direction) does nothing, then it catches and turns like normal. It almost feels like something isn't tightened down properly, although I thought the wheel was splined so it couldn't slip?
To describe better what is happening:
I'm driving down the road, and need to make a right turn. I turn the wheel to the right. The first 5 degrees or so that I turn the wheel, the car does nothing, then the wheel 'catches' and continues to turn to the right like normal. As I come out of the turn, I begin to turn the wheel to the left (to straighten the front wheels). The first 5 degrees or so I turn the steering wheel, it slips, then catches and continues to work. There's a feeling like the steering wheel itself is loose, and once it hits a certain amount of pressure it will slip slightly within the same 5 degrees. I don't think it will slip more than that, but it still concerns me that the wheel feels loose. I don't want it to work itself loose while I'm driving. I hope this makes sense?
What year is this thing!! YEAR MATTERS !!! It could be very easily explained if you mention YEAR!!!!!!
My bad-1985. Manual transmission, if that matters.
Intermediate shaft without doubt. There's many threads regard it. HRR has posted image showing a quick visual confirmation maybe and I generally mention "FEEL" !!
Intermediate shaft without doubt. There's many threads regard it. HRR has posted image showing a quick visual confirmation maybe and I generally mention "FEEL" !!
After doing a quick google on the subject, it sounds like you're right. Also sounds like a beast of a job with expensive parts, ugh.
My next question is, for now, do I need to be worried my steering is going to suddenly go out on me? Do I need to immediately garage the thing until this is fixed, or can I just deal with it for now?
There are safety "stops" so no need to worry. Had the same problem with my 1980 and it was like that for about a year before I had the whole column rebuilt. It was not that crazy of a price.
There are safety "stops" so no need to worry. Had the same problem with my 1980 and it was like that for about a year before I had the whole column rebuilt. It was not that crazy of a price.
Thanks for the help. I definitely want to fix it but it's friggin cold out there right now lol.
If the OE shields are still in place I believe it next to impossible to do the visual and maybe also the 'feel' but it's been many years since I've been there. I helped a friend a very long time ago and I'm quite sure he did an '86 column with the intermediate shaft replacement at the same time.
It seems there's a spline/pinch-bolt difference '84/'85 to the '86 - '89 column. There's I'm sure a couple choices for a repair. If I had the intermediate shaft on the bench to check there's maybe a way I'd consider BUT I don't so ...................
If someone says they've been there and 'done that' then I'd have to evaluate what they did, how many miles ago and if they would maybe consider a different approach again.
One thought-I do have a complete donor car sitting right next to this one-might it be a good idea to just lift the column from the donor and drop it in here? I've never done any steering column work before (on ANY car), so guidance on that job would be appreciated.
If the OE shields are still in place I believe it next to impossible to do the visual.
If someone says they've been there and 'done that' then I'd have to evaluate what they did, how many miles ago and if they would maybe consider a different approach again.
This is very easy to check. There are no "shields" in place to see this problem. It's directly below your alternator. This intermediate shaft design is '84-'85 only. The '86 is different.
It's also an easy repair. There is a shield at the top of the intermediate shaft, but it's easy to remove. The two bolts at the top and bottom of the shaft need to be completely removed, then the slip joint allows you to pull the shaft off of the splines, and it's out!
This pin should stay centered in the hole at all times:
This is very easy to check. There are no "shields" in place to see this problem. It's directly below your alternator. This intermediate shaft design is '84-'85 only. The '86 is different.
It's also an easy repair. There is a shield at the top of the intermediate shaft, but it's easy to remove. The two bolts at the top and bottom of the shaft need to be completely removed, then the slip joint allows you to pull the shaft off of the splines, and it's out!
This pin should stay centered in the hole at all times:
You bought your '84 new? This is how I believe (from many, many years ago) my friend's was maybe assembled. Perhaps IHBD who bought new might clarify. I ain't arguing - maybe the OP can see what's on his, or RandyM and Joe C. I ain't got one to even sneak a peek at.
There's a 7843500 on eBay that resembles what I recall completely with the GM 'Saginaw' crimps that secured the slip-yoke section to the splined shaft. There's of course an adhesive used along with the crimps. I really believe it's easier to 'feel' the failure than visually see the pin alignment. The collapsible section that creates the slop I thought was above the yoke/spline. The crimp I thought for Saginaw to determine effective length while assembly then lock it. The pin centering actually I thought was for Saginaw assembly also.
The donor car I have was in a front-end collision, would that mean I shouldn't use this part?
That's exactly why there's a slip joint in that intermediate shaft! Look carefully at the rubber vibration isolator at that pin location shown in my photo to be sure the pin is centered in the hole. It would all depend upon how much damage the car sustained.
If there's any possibility it's good, I'd try using it. If it doesn't work out, you will have learned how easy it is to do the job again! It's not un-safe to have this problem, as you have already learned.
Yep, it looks like I'm missing that bottom shield. It makes sense there should be a shield at that spot. My car isn't an NCRS primo. At thirty four years old, and 240,000 miles, and who knows how many previous owners, that's no surprise!
Originally Posted by WVZR-1
The collapsible section that creates the slop I thought was above the yoke/spline.
The collapsible section is in the center of the shaft, and is separate from the vibration isolation section. It's the vibration isolation section that has the rubber insert that fails, causing the off-center problem.
The collapsible section is like a "double D" configuration.
Boy am I glad at least one of my Corvettes has the old style "Rag Joint" in the steering column!
It looks like we in the Southeastern part of the United States is getting a bit of a reprieve on the weather front. It is finally back in the 30's around here.
Enjoy the warm spell out there guys.... Spring will be back in roughly 3 months and then we can "Enjoy" our Corvettes on the road again!