Help!
Guys (or gals) I am trying to remove my manual Trans ZF 6-40 and the engine/trans won't rotate down more than a couple of inches.

I posted on here earlier and I have done everything suggested and the only conclusion I have come to is that my engine mounts are not stock (I did not build this 383 Supercharged beast) and I believe that the builder installed aftermarket stiffer or solid mounts.

If someone could help me identify these from the pictures I would be greatly appreciative...and help me figure out how to get this engine/trans to rotate down.

Thank you

Oscar

 

Assuming its an LT-1, they look like OEM mounts to me. I had that insulation on mine (93 LT-1 coupe) when the mounts were stock.

 

Have you removed the right and left cross members under the motor mounts? The trans and Engine must be supported before removing. If a coupe, remove top before removing cross members. Once removed the trans and engine can be lowered by jacks to get the appropriate angle. Im also assuming your doing this on jack stands and the front is higher than the rear of the car. The car must be high enough to slide the trans out from under the car while on a jack if used.

 

I doubt these are the problem, but just to make sure the basics are covered:

• You've fully removed the C-beam and driveshaft, right?
• You've disconnected the intake tubing somewhere between the air filter and throttle body, right?
• You've removed the shifter boots, both of them?
• Make sure the shifter is in third gear.
• Make sure the oil pressure sender fittings aren't hitting the firewall.
• Make sure you've disconnect the VSS signal wire from the VSS in the tailshaft, and the CAGS wire as well.

Not trying to be a smart-*** by suggesting the obvious - these are the kinds of mistakes I make!

 

ArmySnipe: Thanks for the info and reply!!
Okay, yes they are OEM engine mounts based on your information and looking at online google images.

I will answer some of your answers with a question if you don't mind.

1. Yes, I removed the cross members. I can only get it to drop down about 6 inches (far enough to clear the C channel). I tried pulling it down and it is stuck and I can't see any reason that it will not come back (I removed the Oil Pressure sender, headers, etc.).

2. It IS a coupe but why do I have to remove the top?? (to protect the top from cracking/torquing?).

3. I do have it on Jack Stands about 20-23" I would think that I would want the back higher to facilitate clearance as I slide it back off the 6.53" ZF Input shaft

Do I need to remove the middle bolt of the Engine motor mount to get it to rotate back??? I will send a couple of pictures of how far down it drops later today.

 

There is absolutely no reason to remove the left and right braces when extracting the engine. You are just adding more hassles.

 

This is my guess as well. Or the wiring harness has gotten on the way of the engine rocking back.

 

Thank you Matt:
Answers below:

A1. C-Beam slid to the rear fully clear of rear of transmission, driveshaft is fully removed.
A2. Intake tubing is not stock, I have Supercharger with fresh air intake in front right wheel well that free floats (it is definitely not impeding the engine/trans assembly from rocking backwards)
A3. I will check today to see if that is not still connected. I did remove the corn nuts.
A4. Yes
A5. Already removed and nothing on the top is impeding, I will check again though.
A6. All electrical connectors are disconnected. First to fourth gear connector is already bypassed.

Do I need to remove the middle transverse (forward to back) (rubber encased tube) bolts on both the Engine motor mounts to get it to rotate back or is the rubber pliable enough to let the whole assembly rock back??

 

When I pulled my ZF6, I didn't have to touch the motor mounts or any braces to get it to rock back. If you got it to drop 6" before you slid the tranny back at all, that may be enough. I remember thinking my shifter wouldn't clear the tunnel, but it did. The further I slid the tranny back from the bellhousing, the more it dropped, and the shift level was no problem at all.

 

not extracting ENGINE just trying to remove ZF manual trans from underneath rearward to shim and check clutch wear

 

Get the C-beam out of there entirely. It just gets in the way.

You don’t. Ignore that comment

That is more than enough clearance

If you are asking about the lower nut that holds the bottom of the mount, it helps to allow the motor to rock back. But is not require to get the trans out.

 

I have the lower vertical stud NUT removed (I removed it to take the support brackets off). I am asking about the transverse (front-to-back) Bolt visible in the 4th (view from front just behind the radiator and 5th (next to my left eye) picture.


If you are asking about the lower nut that holds the bottom of the mount, it helps to allow the motor to rock back. But is not require to get the trans out.[/QUOTE]

 

oscarm98,

I looked over this thread and the previous one you started. I did see where you stated you did not want to remove the bell housing from the trans. I did not see where you stated later if you had attempted this. You must remove the trans from the bell housing. It is 5 bolts. The trans however must be removed, from my experience, from the bell housing in order to remove it. We have LT's on 2 of our C4's and never had to remove them to remove the trans.

Being you are not using a lift go purchase 2 extra long bolts that match the ones you remove from the trans and bellhousing. Cut the heads off these bolts and use them when you re-install the trans. It makes things much easier to line up going back together.

-Daniel

 

I knew I forgot a bullet point! Although I did allude to this in my second post. Yeah, you do need to pull the trans without the bellhousing.

 

So, I was able to find 100mm (3.93") long bolts in your opinion is that long enough?

I assume that one must be very careful in the last inch or so to pull straight back and keep everything aligned.

Thank you.

Oscar

 

Update:
Matthew was right and ChumpVette nailed it with the engine harness! I discounted the obvious, everything was stacking up on me. I assumed that the intake boot(s) would "give" enough to allow everything to rock back The combination of Supercharger IC hoses and intake and wire harness on the RHS Passenger side of the back of the engine kept everything from coming back. I took my time and inspected everything to figure out what could be keeping it from rocking back and lo and behold those four things being moved/disconnected allowed it to rock back. See photos. This looks much better.

Does shifter look far enough down to clear?

Must I also have a jack under the oil pan during the removal?


Thank you again.

Oscar

 

From the photo it appears that the lower shifter boot is still in place;
and, yes leave the jack under the oil pan

 

Why remove the lower boot? It's flexible and not in the way. Just need to make sure the shifter goes into the boot hole when pushing it back up.

 

Glad you solved the mystery! Like I said in the other thread, I've learned these lessons by making some of the same mistakes.
Going from memory and your pic, I think it's far enough to start moving the transmission away from the bellhousing. It should be able to keep going lower as you slide it away. You can keep lowering the jack as you go.
You mean the oil pan of the engine, right? I think mtwoolford thought you meant the jack you already have under the trans. You don't need any support under the engine. It will sit in good balance on the two motor mounts.

Definitely keep the jack under the transmission - this is a really heavy manual trans (I think 150lbs or thereabouts). I strongly recommend you have someone with a fine touch on the jack handle, to gradually lower it at your direction, while you balance the transmission on the jack. In fact, if you have a second helper to help balance the transmission on the jack (one on each side), it's even better.

After you have it all the way off the crank and clutch and the jack is lowered all the way down, you may find that the car is isn't high enough to wheel it out on the jack. In that case, you also may need help lifting the trans off the jack a bit, then having your other help pull the jack out from under it. With the trans on the floor of the garage, you should be able to remove it.

I agree with this - you already have the shifter all the way out of the boot right now, so you won't tear it. And have someone help guide the lever back into the boot when you reinstall the trans. The reason is that this second rubber boot is really, really hard to get back onto the tunnel if you remove it.

 

I have purchased 3" bolts and cut the bolt heads off and tapered for guidance as suggested earlier. I was actually going to lay under the trans head towards the engine and guide it out onto my chest. I am fairly fit and can still bench press 250#ish. (my wife is not too far from 140# SHHHH and ahem ) This way I can ensure that the shaft gets guided out without shear load. I will have a helper to get it to the floor.

Update: Okay that worked fine, I just put a 2x4 on my chest and abdomen (to distribute the load), I lifted and slid and it popped right out then I carefully lowered it to the floor with the help of a buddy. No problem, probably going to be a little more tricky getting it back in (to the gym).

Does this clutch slave look serviceable? not sure if it will start leaking. Where would I find a good replacement?

Thank you for all your help, I love this forum, you guys are the best!

Oscar