Alternator #4 broke, great
I am getting a bit sick of CS-130 alts. In 2.5 years of ownership I have lost 4 of them. I did rebuild one and it is ready for installation but I have no trust in it. Oh why didn't I replace it with a better one!! #¤%!#¤!%!!!!
It is IMO totally unbelievable why GM have not fixed this problem early in CS-130 production. They must have had some knowledge that there will be problems. This almost feels intentional as the design is really bad compared to older models.
CS-130 usually dies because overheating but also a bad battery can overstress them. My battery seems to work just fine, my car starts perfectly after a week (when I come back from a business trip). Haven't tried longer pauses though.
Any opinions?
ToniH
Whatever the failure that can go wrong with these units,Ive had them.Overheating,bearing failures,case cracking,and the plastic blade inside grenaded on a alternator just a few months old.
Most of these were even a/c delco remanufactured units.
I really dont know what else to say except that these C4 units dont seem to be built to last and youre prety much stuck with them unless you upgrade to the newer style unit.
One of the forum members here,I forget who it was,I think BBA or somebody,upgraded his system to the alternator that came on the 96 models.Had to do a little work to make it come together.I may do this someday if I have ore problems.I think one or two of the wires need to be upgraded and the alternator itself needs a little filing to make it fit in the brackets.
Supposedly its a better unit and may be a worthwhile upgrade.Another claim was the alternator had better voltage output and was holding a charge with the battery alot better.
Good Luck and sorry If I didnt really answer your post more directly.Many of us forum members have gone through this alternator problems several times already.
:)
I have heard that the alt used in ZR-1's is very much trouble free and only reguires very minor filing to fit. Any confirmation to this?
Any other plug and play or almost so alternatives I have? CS-144?
Thanks,
Toni
It sure holds voltage better...especially when the car idles at 500 RPM and the AC/lights are on.
Lifetime warranty does not help with this as the problem is not with paying 130$ for one but more in peace of mind -section. Anyway, there is no lifetime warranty offered for CS130's in these parts - even the part shops know they are sh_t.
I'll have to take one with me and go shopping. Compare the alt with other models and see if I can use something else to replace it.
Thanks,
Toni
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things to try is to add a ground strap from the alt. body to the intake manifold or engine block.
another thing to do is to lower engine temps. the heat kills them too. make the fans come on earily, and get a lower thermostat.
lastly if that fails, you can upgrade the wiring to larger, but that seems to be a last resort.
Larry
I also continue searching a better alt which would install easily. My best bets seem to be CS130D which is much more ventilated model with external rectifier and then the bigger CS144. I just haven't yet been able to verify how they will or will not bolt on to stock brackets. Somebody said the the CS144 would bolt on with some minor filing though but that is all I know. Also somebody said that the alt used in ZR-1's is almost a direct bolt on. Can anybody confirm this? And what model is this alt?
Thanks.
Toni
LMK if you want pictures.
Can anybody confirm which cars have what?
Here is a link to a company which sells parts and alternators for Chevys: http://www.alternatorparts.com/
Toni
> LMK if you want pictures.
Hey, thanks! this is good news and I would be very happy to see pictures!! :yesnod:
Please e-mail them to me or show them in the Forum.
I could do this swap and sell all my old CS130's (after rebuild) to my friends, surprisingly they need spares too - just to maintain peace of mind. ;)
Thank you!
Toni
Don't know why those alternators :U all the time. I had various problems too, not just one recurring problem. Some stopped charging, one developed bad bearings and the shaft got loose, and one started to seize.
Anyway, either go with an aftermarket alternator, or a ZR1 alternator. Even with a good lifetime warranty like autozones, you still get stuck changing it. Twice I was stranded in the middle of nowhere changing and alternator while someone ehld the flashlight for me because I couldnt drive the car (the one that seized and the one with bad bearings).
Good luck whichever way you go!
:smash:
As I recall. Its GM's bad design. It seem on mine the bearings have gone out a few times. . :rolleyes:

In about 85, the C4 alternators were called CS for Charging System- followed by a number. The number should be the rated amps for the specific alternator. Naturally, they have continued to increase output, ie, from say 105, 130, 140 etc .
Head for idavette.net and read Hib Halversons article on rebuilt alternators. Sorry I can't tell you exactly where it's located.
Generally speaking , rebuilt alternators can be a real crap shoot. If the rebuilder installs new diodes, new bearings, good tolerances on rotating components, maybe they'll last depending on heat conditions, installation, belt tension, vibrations, etc. But that is the trouble, really hard to determine what new components were installed during "rebuild" and what components were checked, found OK, and reinstalled. You can expect cheaper units with more check and found OK components.
If I have a factory alternator/starter, I usually take it to my local rebuilder, family business for over 40 years, Fred's Auto Electric, I'm not making this up. You may be able to find a similar shop by checking yellow pages, Automotive-Electrical, and checking out the shop. Usually rebuilds an alternator for around $35. The lifetime warranty offered by many stores is very appealing. You just accept the risk associated with not knowing what all was done. As usual, decisions decisions.
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[Modified by dlmeyers, 9:46 AM 10/14/2002]




















