Recently Ive gone mad trying to fix a code 43 trying new parts and every diagnostic test imaginable and nothing worked. Somebody on here told me to head to F-Body ECM Programming on facebook. He will burn you a chip for $70 and even do a stage 2 performance chip for $76. I only needed the normal chip to have the knock sensors ignored but for only $6 more I said what the heck and got the stage 2 chip. This truly works. I put it in today and ive never had a c4 drive as good as it does now. I can assure anybody who wants to say this is a scam that its not and he will get you exactly what you want. I had to pay through a western union transfer which I was a little nervous about at first but took the chance and the only regret I have is that I didnt find him sooner. If youre having the same problem I had or just want to give you your vette more pep he is the guy to see. Check him out for sure.

 

a link would have been good

 

https://m.facebook.com/F-body-ECM-Pr...9489875293854/

Thats the best way to contact him.

 

If you just want more pep, advance the timing. Not a good way to do things and I wouldn't do it on my car but that "works" in a manner of speaking. That said, I don't care for removing the Knock Sensor. That is what keeps knock from occuring. So you will hear knock BUT when it is really bad. Not the safest idea. If you do hear the knocking and feel it is retarding your timing, instead of masking it out, my suggestion would be to find out what is causing it. Kinda like taking morphine for a broken leg. Sure, you won't feel the pain BUT the leg might heal funny.

I'm kinda skeptical when it comes to people who have no facility and just a facebook page. My guess is it is another "Guess a Tune" unless he is doing data logging.

 

In my other posts regarding the code 43 I had no actual knock and blindly advancing the timing on a computer controlled engine will do more harm than good. The knock sensor does nothing more than act as an aid for those who dont know cars. Most knock will occur at high rpms unless you have major problems to cause it to knock lower. For decades hot rodders drove without them and did just fine. If you look on his page he shows tuning maps used. Obviously you cant get a true personalized tune from a mail order chip since it cant be dyno tuned. Regardless it added a definite pep to the car and fixed my problem that was caused in the original computer. I would never recommend doing this if you have actual knock occuring but in my case and many others the computer was creating a problem from something that wasnt there. Im sharing my experience from him and will highly reccomend him. Alot of people can have the experience to do the tuning but not have the means to dyno every car and dont want to deal with the different tax codes that creating an official business would entail but i stand by my decision to reccomend him.

 

You sure about that? I have a few professional shops and tuners who did use it so they can push the edge. I am assuming they do know the motors. OTOH, if you don't know how to use it to push an edge safely, I can see why that would be all it looks like it is worth. Your gas quality might not always be perfect either.

Sounds good to me then. I mean, if they can get by without it using the same motor, same fuel quality, getting the same results, same longevity and mpg, to name a few, I suppose we should be fine with "just fine", whatever it means in that sense.

I did. If I dig through my stuff, I might find a few maps of "my own" too.

I don't follow. I had issues with my Powerstroke after mods and we didn't put it on a dyno either. We datalogged the ECM to see what it was doing. Take the datalog, make changes, try again, etc. Same as dyno tuning except you can't see what it is doing power wise and there is some tweaking required. If he isn't doing that, he is really guessing what is happening.

I did some changes on my HD with SEPST. Doesn't make me more than a hack who knows how to push a button. There might be a few that actually have a lot of experience tuning like you said. Unfortunately, there are more hacks out there than there are such. In fact, IIRC, we had someone here like that with someone shilling for him too. He too was probably not wanting to create a business entity or want the expense of a dyno or even an office. All he had were a few shills and no real references, PROFESSIONAL ones, that is. Call me a jaded cynic but so far, I haven't seen a thing yet that says he is a professional that knows more than a few buttons to push.

 

Interesting. Pretty much all new cars, some pushing 600 hp, 700 hp and more all utilize knock sensors to optimize timing and horsepower.

 

Maybe the engineers who designed the cars needed an aid because they too don't know cars?

 

yoy can make just as much if not more power without a knock sensor. Knock sensors are there in all new cars because the average person doesnt know what to listen for when it comes to that. Knock sensors only retard the timing and only do it when it detects knock. Its the same as backing off the throttle. Yes knock sensors can tell tuners where to make their final little tweaks to make it safe for everyday use but i can tell you that a professional tuner will hear the knock and know what to do. Look at a new gm crate engine. The 502 puts out 500hp on just a carb alone. No knock sensor and its just as reliable as anything else out there. You can put a holley efi system on it and push the limits even further without a knock sensor. They are there for the average person that only knows the order of the pedals and has never turned a wrench in their life. Everybody wants to act like a knock sensor delete is the end of the world and that the sensor is gods gift to cars well its not. Theyre simply a safety sensor so idiots dont blow their engine up. If youre having your car tuned and pushed to the very edge where it needs to rely on a knock sensor to keep it in check then you can throw reliability out the window.

 

Absolutely. I can crank the timing to dangerous levels and it will make more power than safely. I can also buy a new motor every so month. Drag racers do that all day long, why not us?

Lets see. You are 5 feet away from the motor in a cabin designed to minimize sound and yet your ear is as sensitive as the KS in the block? I call BS.

Again, I agree they know knock when they hear it. So which ones would swear that they are as accurate with light knock as a KS? Which one of them rides with you every mile?

Again, you can. "Can" is a very deceptive word. Implies everything and guarantees absolutely nothing. THIS is at 8.75 compression.

Again, if your ear is good enough to hear any and all knock through the firewall, you are right. I admit my ear isn't sensitive enough to hear any and all. Maybe if it is moderate and definitely severe but in my defense, I don't have the engine sitting next to me. Is your ear that sensitive that you are willing to bet money on it? Because you are if you blow an engine or even shorten its life.

Really? Those are my choices? Race engine where it only needs to hit the finish line before rebuild or total safety? I think there might be another compromise somewhere where you are not replacing your engine but not leaving that much on the table.

PS. Any idiot can turn a wrench. Not everyone who does turn said wrench can diagnose. If your car were detonating like you mentioned and all you did was mask the issue by removing the KS without diagnosis, what you have is simply hiding the issue by fooling the ECM. You can turn wrenches all you want and you can know what knock sounds like but you obviously have no clue as to what is causing the problem when your only cure is to hide the issue. THAT is where a professional comes in. To find out what is causing that problem which shouldn't be. What you have advertised for is a hack to hide the issue. What next? fix a broken leg by morphine and bandages? No see, no pain, problem solved?

 

If you read what I said above I said that there was no knock. Do some looking around the code 43 problem and youll find alot of people have the same problem. The light comes on upon startup and stays on permanantly. I ran the engine and took readings from the sensors themselves and compared to what range the computer looks for and there was no abnormalities. The computer was thinking something was there that wasnt. These cars are 20+ years old and theyre at the beginning of the ecm era. Computers can and do fail. I never told somebody to ignore a problem. I didnt see the light and instantly jump to just turn it off with a chip. I tested every possible thing imaginable before coming to the conclusion to put in a chip. Engines are not these fragile things that people claim. They can take quite a bit of abuse so the knock that you cant hear is minute and realistically doing next to no harm. Its when you can hear the knock that you have a problem.

 

IDK about LT1 motors but it's hard to believe that so many have that issue without some underlying issue. IDK why the ECM would think there is a knock unless it is defective in some way, assuming the sensor and connection is good. There are a ton of LT1 cars out there without the issue, that I can say. It was used in F-body cars and B-body cars. I have heard of code 43 but most often heard (and more possibly over-hyped) is the Opti since it is hard to get one with the Mitsubishi Opti and you have to pull the water pump.

You tested everything imaginable TO YOU which might be different from everything imaginable. As to computer failure, while it is definitely possible, somehow, I think human failure is definitely more probable.

Well, how much before it becomes harmful and how did we determine it? Like I said, I have no idea how much I can hear from inside the cabin with the car insulation and the exhaust roaring in the back and engine noise in the front, not to mention my attention on the road. Sorry but if the choice is pay attention to the road or the motor dying, the motor is dying every time. In theory, I agree with you. From a reality standpoint, I have my doubts I will notice the knocking until it is too late, by which time, harm is done. It might not break immediately at the time but cumulatively, it can become an issue. So no thanks. If it is my motor, I want the KS pulling timing instead of trusting that I can hear it in time and back off the throttle each and every time it happens.