Bfenty

ZEN357

Depending on what fluid you are using it should either be clear or red not dark. Something is definitely wrong with your setup.

Bfenty

welp. Got the hydraulic line looked at-it doesn't appear to have any leaks. I bled the clutch tonight, ended up pumping it for about 10 minutes straight and got it nice and firm. There were some bubbles coming out in the reservoir and it seemed to be pretty well bled. I let it sit for about 10 minutes, tested again, and the pedal was still nice and stiff.

Decided to take it for a drive. I got about a half mile and three shifts away from home, and the pedal was completely gone again-I could push it to the floor with no resistance. I didn't have to stop again on the way home, so I just kept it in first the whole way.

WTF is wrong with this thing?

9T3VETTE

Again, sounds like air in the system. Taking the line out probably introduced more air.

What is the process you have been using for filling the slave, master and then bleeding?

Bfenty

So I didn't empty the slave or the master in this circumstance-I had just detached the hose (which certainly introduced air). I reattached the hose to the master cylinder first, then pressed the pedal to fill the line with fluid, then attached to the slave cylinder. I then bled it by pressing the clutch pedal down, holding it in place with a board, opening and closing the bleeder valve (allowing some air and fluid to escape), and then removing and replacing the board. Sometimes I pumped it up a little bit in between.

I've never bled...anything before, so I got that procedure from reading online. Did I do it wrong? How would I troubleshoot this system to know if it is just air, or if a component is bad?

Thanks for the help.

lt4obsesses

It sounds like you still have air trapped in the slave. When I replaced my clutch years ago, the first thing I did was fill the slave prior to install. The next thing I did was get a one man bleeder kit from the parts store. There are also reverse bleeder kits that fill the system from the bottom, but I couldn't find one at the time.

The kit has a small bottle that holds fluid and tube that goes from the bleeder screw into the bottle. This way when you are pumping, you will not be introducing air from the bottom. Then you just have ensure that there is always fluid in the master as you fill and pump.

Also check that c clip on the clutch pedal rod under the dash. If I recall, it was a bit of PIA.

Bfenty

Yeah the clip was a PITA, but I got it ok. I'm absolutely sure it's connected correctly.

I'll look into the one-man bleeder kit, I might have to do something like that. I would hate to have to take this thing somewhere to have it done as that is expensive, but I might have to.

9T3VETTE

I've had success using the below method which was outlined to me by a reputable re-builder of OEM Salve and Master cylinders (he is retired now). This method assumes the clutch master line is full and has no air trapped in it.

1) fill new slave with a syringe on the bench until it is FULL (this will displace all the internal air)
2) Remove old slave from vehicle and detach clutch line (make sure the cap is still on the master as this prevents fluid from leaking out of the slave end line connection)
3) Install clutch line end to new slave making sure slave is full and bled from step 1. Tighten connection and install slave to vehicle.
4) Suck fluid out of the clutch master and remove the line from master
5) Remove old master, install new one, install clutch line, fill with fluid
6) At this point you should have some resistance at the bottom of the clutch pedal travel. Start pumping the pedal and you should have a solid pedal after 50 or so pumps. Make sure to keep the master full during this.

Others (including myself) have also had success using a reverse bleeder such as the Phoenix reverse bleeder system. As we all know air wants to rise, so filling from the slave port at the bottom up through the master generally works.

Bfenty

Lots of good details here, thank you.

Bfenty