C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1996 charging, alternator, battery etc. problems...

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Old 03-20-2018, 11:26 PM
  #21  
racerseks
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
I was curious about the head of the bolt. The question 'Is that your car?' was intended for bac22.

The nut you've got there now looks to be a 'ny-lok' and if it actually fits I don't believe it's a problem. It should seat against the spacer. I'd buy a new M10x1.5 nut to try on the bolt to confirm the threads. You should be able to buy an M10x1.5 HFH nut at most any local hardware, the 'ny-lok' feature isn't required. If the M10 doesn't fit properly then I'd think someone used a 3/8-16 bolt. Buy 1 of each to try maybe.

An M10 can be threaded onto a 3/8-16 but I don't believe a 3/8-16 can be threaded onto an M10. does the nut feel loose maybe?

I'd concern myself first with just the charging!!
Okay, so the nut isn't supposed to be flush with the back of the alternator/ac compressor then? Looks like it has room to move that way, but admittedly, that's what it looks like in the pic that was posted...from what I can see.

Is the Ny-lok nut okay then? It's just one I found in my parts bin. No idea where it came from. What's it's purpose? Thanks for posting the size...I'll try that.

Oh yea, definitely. I just noticed the head of the bolt was hitting the belt, and figured it could be a contributing factor. Like to get it running and see that battery light symbol disappear. I guess we'll see what happens. Better change that belt soon too, I guess. Got a little cleaning to do before the battery goes back in. Might as well, while it's out...

Thanks!

Last edited by racerseks; 03-20-2018 at 11:30 PM.
Old 03-21-2018, 12:37 PM
  #22  
mickey5
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Alternator should be putting out about 14 volts with engine running. If your only getting around 11 to 12 volts at the battery with the engine running your alternator needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
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Old 03-21-2018, 12:47 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mickey5
Alternator should be putting out about 14 volts with engine running. If your only getting around 11 to 12 volts at the battery with the engine running your alternator needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
Alternator was my original guess, but terminals were super dirty, and there was a bolt interfering with the belt. Should be firing it up by tomorrow to see if those made any difference after remedying. More times than not, it's the simple stuff...but let's see what happens. If not, I'll be troubleshooting the alternator. Thanks...

Last edited by racerseks; 03-21-2018 at 12:49 PM.
Old 03-21-2018, 10:22 PM
  #24  
Fastnail
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Here are a couple of pics of the bolt/nut on my 96 LT1, should be the same as yours. Hope this helps.


Bolt is metric, 4-1/8 long
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:05 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Fastnail
Here are a couple of pics of the bolt/nut on my 96 LT1, should be the same as yours. Hope this helps.


Bolt is metric, 4-1/8 long
Looks the same, and thanks very much for posting that. Looks like it is indeed torx on the end, huh? I'll find a replacement once I get my charging problems fixed. Looking like I'll need an alternator, but will post more on my findings soon...thanks again!
Old 03-23-2018, 08:45 AM
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Hey Racer,If you need an alternator and you have an original still installed, try to get it rebuilt. A lot of the replacements are Chinese junk. Go to a local alternator/starter rebuild shop. All you will probably need is new bearings and a diode assy. Cost about a hundred bucks.
Old 04-02-2018, 06:43 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mickey5
Hey Racer,If you need an alternator and you have an original still installed, try to get it rebuilt. A lot of the replacements are Chinese junk. Go to a local alternator/starter rebuild shop. All you will probably need is new bearings and a diode assy. Cost about a hundred bucks.
Thanks...I'm considering going that route, especially if it has the original in it. Looking more and more like the original guess...an alternator. After some multimetering...



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