westex

just bought 3 months ago a 1994 coupe with lt1 it gets hot here and temp guage is already showing that
thinking about aluminum radiator is a 3 core one recommended?

vette196

DeWitts, but I'd pick some brains here and do some searches. Since it is fairly new to you, you might want to check the area between the condenser and the radiator, lots of crap accumulates there. If its dirty, clean it up and I bet it runs cooler

c4cruiser

What coolant temps do you see? There is a good sticky thread that covers coolant temps for the C4. C4's (both the L98 and the LT1 engines) tend to run warmer than other cars. That's due to helping with lowering emissions.

You should check around the tubes and fins of the radiator and A/C condensor for dirt and debris that could be reducing air flow. Lack of airflow, higher temps. Also make sure the air dams under the front of the car are in place. C4's are "bottom breathers"; cooling air is directed upwards into the condensor and radiator by these air dams.

westex

bud allen

thanks for the thread

it all looks clea temp runs up on guage 240 after a short time in town I was going to drain coolant system and replace antifreeze however if it was best to replace radiator iwas going to wait anjd do it all at once

vette196

if you replace the coolant make sure you get the air out of the system

Purple92

On the LT1 C4's - the PCM is programmed to let the car get to 230 or so (looking at the digital gauge - not he analog coolant temp gauge - which can tend to be inaccurate) before the 2nd fan cuts in. Most of the LT1 cars will run in the mid 190's on the open highway in steady state cruise at 65 or so MPH in moderate to warm weather. If you're seeing more than that - you should look to find out what the problem is.

As other posters have said - the area between the A/C condenser and the rad tends to accumulate crap. Cleaning it out ain't fun - - basically you get to pull the rad - and there are six little 7mm screws in front of the air box that just aren't your friend that need to come out to get the rad out.... But doing the work is likely to help the cooling.

Doing a FULL coolant drain and flush will also help - on the LT1 Cars that means draining the rad - then pulling the knock sensors which are threaded into the holes that used to be called the block drains. Many LT1 owners are amazed by the amount of crud that comes out when those drain plugs are removed - part of it has to do with the reverse flow cooling system the LT1 cars used. Not a bad idea to change rad hoses while you're at it.

westex

gerardvg

Standard radiator has a 1 inch core, Dewitts have a 2x 1 inch core.
Most 3 row radiators only have 3x 1/2 inch rows....

You can find good two row 2x 1 inch rows radiators, stay away from Chinese ones ..... most cheap ones are...

Tom400CFI

A stock or stock replacement radiator should be better than good enough for a stock or stockish engine. If you're temps are hitting 240, I'd be doing some basic PM, like flushing the system, cleaning the radiator and diagnosing the cooling system...not replacing the radiator.

scotth48

I replaced mine with the direct fit single core from DeWitts and installed the Spal fans. Works great!
Only about 50 miles from them, so went over there. Talked to John and they made bracket holes to mount ac condensor and a extension bushing for the upper hose bracket to be used.

DGXR

Surprised nobody has mentioned this yet:

The analog temperature gauge should be ignored.
The scale is not linear and shows alarming readings when all is OK.

Cycle the digital display to show the coolant temperature, that is most accurate. See what it says and report back here.

Tom400CFI

Good point! Analog gauge is pretty useless. Think of it more as a "cold-warm-hot" idiot light.

jpipx

I replaced the radiator in my coupe with the DeWitts dual core almost 2 years ago. The temperature is more stable now, averages around 200 in the city, 209 max. I wanted a full aluminum unit and not the plastic/aluminum type that came from the factory.

Purple92

I think I did ... "(looking at the digital gauge - not he analog coolant temp gauge - which can tend to be inaccurate)"....

PatternDayTrader

In the event the radiator is replaced, then I totally agree the replacement should not have plastic side tanks.

Purple92

BTW - westex A new aluminum rad - ( e.g. a Ron Davis, DeWitts or Be Cool) is going to run AT LEAST $500 - probably more - maybe way more.... And it typically involves some minor mods to the rad shrouding...

So - spending a few hours and $40 on coolant and distilled water is probably a worthwhile course of action. Worst case - your out the $40 when you find you have to replace the rad anyway (and in that case - you may only need to get one more jug of Anti-freeze - because you won't lose as much when you just remove the rad.....)

Oh - and one other piece of advice - plan on getting old coolant all over (both the floor and you) when you pull the knock sensors. I've done the knock sensor removal job more than once, and let's just say that: 1) wearing goggle sis a good idea - and 2) I wear stuff that I fully expect to hose off before throwing in the washer - and 3) I generally plan to get into the shower right after the job is done... So the knock sensor removal is not a job to do with hot coolant...

GRKLGHTNG

Purchased a 2 row DeWitts earlier this year for my '96 LT4, during their annual sale. Haven't installed it yet, but pulled it out of the box to inspect...have to say, the thing looks likes it's really high quality, to be honest, it looks like a piece of art!

Strick

Do you mind saying how much it cost? The bottom hose nipple on my radiator has a crack in it.

GRKLGHTNG

Honestly, I can't recall right now...I'd have to look it up. Probably right around $500, with shipping. Remember though, it was during their annual sale, that I believe only occurs in January.