Need Troubleshooting Help on an Itermittent Starter
Need some of the CF troubleshooting experience on this. About 4,000 miles ago, I changed the starter on my '87 Ragtop. At the time it wouldn't start occasionally. I could rap the starter/solenoid with a socket and get the car to fire up. Once it's started it runs great.
Okay, fast forward to last week, Sun 10/6/02, the day after I finished driving from Anacortes, Washington to Pensacola, Florida. I went out to go somewhere and the problem was back. Durning the last part of my trip, I drove thourgh some HEAVY rain (Lafayette, LA through MS to Pensacola) so I thought maybe the starter had gotten hot and wet. The rap-trick worked again. It's been starting/running fine until last night. Once again, driving in the rain, it didn't want to crank when I needed to go back to the base.
From reading some other posts, and assuming the NAPA starter/solenoid is probably still good (reasonable right?) I'm wondering exactly how to go about chasing wires. Seems like the big juice circuit must be good or I'd be buying batteries. That leaves the circuit from the ignition switch down to the starter solenoid and all points inbetween. Any directions/experience you could share would be greatly appreceiated.
Thanks,
Bruce
It is located in the shifter mechanisim. Just for kick's give the shifter a little push towards park and try to start it at the same time.You should check to see that the connections are tight on the starter too.
Good Luck..
Does the starter make a "click"? Do any lights dim slightly when turning the key to the start position?
Inspect your key pellet. How old is your key? Do you have an alternate key that looks pretty new? Believe the 86 or 87 had some problems with the pins that connect with the pellet.
Have you cleand the battery cables, battery connections, checked the wiring on the starter for loose connections? Make sure all connections on the solenoid are tight. Clean the negative battery cable where it attaches to the ground side of the car, tight connection. Not sure where it is on an 87.
Possible to have another bad starter but I'm suspicious. Check the cable heading to the starter. I've had one of those corrode internally and was on medication before finally figuring that one out. You could remove the starter and try bench checking about 10 times.
Believe the 87 had a 3 minute timeout for the VATS and you could have had a VATS problem and it reappeared. Have you checked for codes? The 90 and above will sometimes set a VATS code with no engine light. Not sure about 87 if they list that code.
There could be problem in the circuit providing power to the control side of the solenoid, ie start enable relay, neutral safety switch, solenoid/wiring, starter problem.
You could also have a high current problem, ie bad battery connection or cable/ground problem.
A voltmeter and good schematic would be the best tools for determining where the current has stopped. Do you have the factory service manual? If you do, we can direct you to some good schematics, places where the volt meter is king and will determine if these switches and relays are taking the day off. Until one starts measuring voltage, we are speculating. Or rounding up the usual suspects.
In summary, I would start with the simple and cheap. Clean connections, grounds, check for sturdy connections, any physical signs of corrosion, a new key never hurts. After that, it would be on to components within each circuit.
Intermittant no cranks can be tough.
Let us know.
Keep the faith.
dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3 speed shocks
Bruce





