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I just searched a number of threads where C4 owners asked the question of how to remove the ball joint boots, upper joint in particular, so polyurethane boots could be installed. I couldn’t find a useful answer.
I have a set of Energy Suspension 9.13127R boots for replacement of all four factory boots. All the ball joints were kept very well greased as evidenced by the mess at the ends of both A-arms. I had to fight chassis grease with elbow grease and the elbow eventually won. But all boots are badly deteriorated and joints still very tight. I’m NOT going to replace the full joints just because of rotted rubber boots.
So, the lower ball joints use a steel band that clamps the dust boot to the ball joint body. Easy enough to slice through and remove. But the kicker is the upper ball joints where there seems to also be a security band but it’s recessed up into the aluminum A-arm hole. Has anyone got a reasonable suggestion as to how that upper ball joint boot band can be removed without having to bust the four (eight) rivets to remove the entire ball joint?
Or, is there a tutorial showing how to remove the riveted joint and install a bolt-in joint? I’ll convert to bolts if that’s my only choice but I need to know the hardware specifications first.
Here is a photo of the driver side upper joint just waiting to get its new boot.
Thanks
What a less mess than it started out. Must remove the remainder of the original dust boot before I can install the new polyurethane boot.
A short descriptive on how to change the boot on a C4 ball joint without removing it. Energy Suspension boots used. NOTE: The upper boot is changed the same way, but is recessed in the joint socket. A thin tip screwdriver can pry it out exactly the same as the lower.
Ah, interesting. The comments refused to load when I used my phone to view the video. In my own attempts to poke and pry at the remains of the boot I did have said thin screwdriver in hand but because I couldn’t visualize exactly what was hiding up in the control arm I didn’t want to waste my time by possibly doing damage to either the joint or my tools.
I’m going to take another stab at the uppers (in daylight) and see what’s what. Photos to follow. Stay tuned...
Phones are not yet a substitute for a computer, whether desktop or laptop. I don't use a "smart phone". I guess I am a member of the FES (Flat Earth Society). My flip phone is actually a purpose built contractor phone, sealed, water proof, etc.
Phones are not yet a substitute for a computer, whether desktop or laptop. I don't use a "smart phone". I guess I am a member of the FES (Flat Earth Society). My flip phone is actually a purpose built contractor phone, sealed, water proof, etc.
My wife and kid get on me all the time about it.
My phone, an aging iPhone 6+, is my 'Swiss Army Knife' of electrical devices. It can perform 90% of the duty of my desktop but on the reverse there are many things the phone can do that the desktop can't touch. It's a synergistic relationship.
But back to YouTube; Video comments usually display correctly. I use the desktop view, not the mobile app to access videos. That particular video itself refused to load yet there was no issues with playing vids from other content providers. One of those things I suppose...
Upper Ball Joints are pretty easy to change the entire unit. May as well, youre this far... 50 bux per side and its a simple drill out the rivets and install nuts and bolts in their place.
Upper Ball Joints are pretty easy to change the entire unit. May as well, youre this far... 50 bux per side and its a simple drill out the rivets and install nuts and bolts in their place.
Nope, not currently the option I’ll go with. As stated in my first post the joints are in great shape except for the boots. But I would like to know the exact hardware used when replacement joints are installed just in case I have to pull the joints to remove the boot-retaining steel band. What grade, size, thread, etc. Can’t locate that info anywhere.
Nope, not currently the option I’ll go with. As stated in my first post the joints are in great shape except for the boots. But I would like to know the exact hardware used when replacement joints are installed just in case I have to pull the joints to remove the boot-retaining steel band. What grade, size, thread, etc. Can’t locate that info anywhere.
You need to put your hands on a Moog K6346 joint and see what it's supplied with for installation. You then need to confirm the OE joint flange is dimensionally the same as the Moog. Assume nothing! The shoulder might be a harder to find/match than just ordinary hardware.
You need to put your hands on a Moog K6346 joint and see what it's supplied with for installation. You then need to confirm the OE joint flange is dimensionally the same as the Moog. Assume nothing! The shoulder might be a harder to find/match than just ordinary hardware.
OR an OE/GM 9769596
I considered visiting my local auto parts store with dial calipers in-hand to see what's included in the ball joint box but that's all moot now. Will clarify in my next post. Please stand by...
The ball joint video posted above had a note claiming that the upper boots "can" be removed using a similar technique as the lowers. Just saying "can" isn't the same as showing how it's done or doing it. But I have one tool in my toolbox, custom made by moi many years ago that I felt would be my best bet at hooking onto an edge of the retaining band and pulling/prying it out of the very narrow recess in the upper control arm's opening. This tool started life as a #2 Philips screwdriver and with the driver portion all worn out I couldn't see throwing it away. The cool wooden handle was just so nice to grip firmly and I had an idea.
With access to a belt sander I carefully ground the screwdriver shaft into a long taper, not unlike an awl or pick. Then carefully heated and bent the end into a short and mildly angled hook with a stubby and stout point. This is one of those unassuming tools that sits in the tool drawer and gets zero attention from onlookers because it looks like nothing. But to me it's everything. Got a snap ring that needs something under the edge while a second grab is made? This is the tool. Need to get under some low profile part and hold it up while slipping a second tool in? This is the tool. Need to reach into a hole and draw a spring or sleeve out safely? Well, you know the answer already. I've seen something similar commercially available but with a longer hook on the end. Could be easily modified shorter to provide better leverage and grabbing power.
A small, flat-blade screwdriver as suggested could possibly work but that's not it's intended use. I'll try my 'custom' pick first.
I used a knife to cut away the interfering rubber and clean off some of the schmoo blocking my view before studying the edge of the retaining band. Going by the size of the lower ball joint band I expected a short ring of steel, not one that is seemingly twice its height. But I probed around a little using my pick and felt a small but practical-size gap between the aluminum of the A-arm and the edge of the ring and wasted no time trying to dig the tip of my pick into what appeared to be the ring. A little prying action netted a slight, very slight, movement of the ring. Oh boy! I kept prying and changing pry points slightly and the ring became easier to lower into view. Done, it's out along with the remains of the boot. Yay!
I have't cleaned around the gap yet to get the area ready for the new boot as I wanted to share the success first. Now for pix. Ciao
Cut old boot remains out of the way. Check to see if my custom pick has enough room to fit in the gap and catch onto a section of the steel retaining band. A closeup of the end of the pick. Contact made! This shows a couple of prying motions into the process. A fair amount of force was used to make certain that the tip of the pick wasn't allowed to slip. Almost there! The ring went much higher into the recess than I could have imagined. Gotcha you little b*stard! Now to wash, rinse, repeat on the passenger side upper ball joint.
1996 Ball Joint Dust Boot Upgrade...
