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Fuel pump removal and install-tips?

Old 05-05-2018, 04:22 PM
  #21  
1993C4LT1
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Cool! Just wasn't sure, which is why I asked.
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Old 05-05-2018, 07:49 PM
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Well, what to do now? These things snapped out, completely unexpected. They both were in that empty terminal.


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Old 05-05-2018, 07:55 PM
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IMO..

Take your time.. Get a little pick or something and remove that terminal from the housing. Re-install the wires in the terminal. Crimp the terminal a little, and solder them in well. Re-install the terminal in the plastic housing.

Alternatively, you could return the part..

It may be a good thing this happened now because if you had a bad connection there it would just fail eventually anyway.
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Old 05-05-2018, 07:58 PM
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Can you use the old one?
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Old 05-05-2018, 08:15 PM
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Think I'm gonna go the safe way, and get a new part from them. The connection on the pump is different than the OE one. So can't use that one
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Old 05-06-2018, 12:08 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1 View Post
Think I'm gonna go the safe way, and get a new part from them.
Yes, this is the correct thing to do.
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Old 05-07-2018, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs View Post
I won't say a word about what I think of Racetronics "quality". Other than this is typical of my experiences. Wrong wires in wrong cavities (burned up the guy's gas gauge in his cluster. I can't take credit for not seeing the problem, because I didn't install the harness, another guy did and when he couldn't get it to run, it was towed to my shop. I saw it right away, but the damage to the gauge cluster was already done.), poorly crimped terminals (you found one too), and one of their recently installed pumps was blowing 20A fuses (with no wiring damage or other consequences, confab) until it failed completely and I got a 11:00PM call to come tow his azz to the house. Pump was less than a week old.

I mentioned the Racetronix booster harness as a solution to address confab's concern about increasing a fuse size 50%. I also mentioned it is possible to make a booster harness yourself with a $6 relay and some wire and terminals if you possess the knowledge to do so.

The connector on the underside of the top of the tank shows evidence of having been heated. If this were my project, I would mechanically fasten the terminals or wrap the wire around the cleaned pins and solder the connections. The new pump does draw more than a stock pump. If it burned with the stocker (which it did) it will burn with the 225. Solder those connections, and you won't be opening it up again in 4 weeks to fix a burned connector. Unless you too get a jankey Racetronix pump. Hope you don't.
Ok, I have read this several times and I still don't understand. You're mechanical/technical understanding is way above mine. So what are you saying to do to burned pins? Sorry for not understanding.
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:19 PM
  #28  
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Do you guys this will work for the underside of the tank? I see the three pin connector. Since mine has "slightly burnt pins", I just want to replace that connector as well.

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WA-C44&eq=&Tp=
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1 View Post
Do you guys this will work for the underside of the tank? I see the three pin connector. Since mine has "slightly burnt pins", I just want to replace that connector as well.

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WA-C44&eq=&Tp=
I would suggest that since you are here already, get the wire connectors from Racetronix. I really don't like it if something goes wrong and you get blamed especially if you can send them pictures and ask what to do.

I guess I am not totally sold on needing that much amps to run the pump unless I really need the amount of feed. I have run my car at WOT and it doesn't seem to be starving for fuel according to the gauge and an engine builder when we did it years ago.
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Old 05-07-2018, 01:55 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1 View Post
Having a hell of a time removing the rubber fuel hoses. But I'll get them off. To those with the racetronix 255lph pump, are running stock size fuse?
Yes, still stock fuse. Since I upgraded with their harness there is another in-line fuse up at the front of the car next to the alternator. If I bypass that harness, I would make sure the fuse is bigger.

The 3-pin connector on the underside of your sending unit looks a little cooked. Mine was really really cooked. I would go ahead and get that kit from them and change it out. You will probably destroy the factory one getting it out, but pay close attention to how the new one goes in, theres really only one way it will work right and connect outside and inside.

I won't get into their tech support and general quality but they do have the kits that you need. They should start providing them all in one kit since it appears nearly everyone these days is having the harness go out too.

Last edited by vader86; 05-07-2018 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:05 PM
  #31  
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The stock terminals rely on crimp pressure to maintain contact. As the terminal heats up, it looses connectivity because the metal expands and there is less "crimp" pressure, it heats up even more, etc, etc, etc, until the connection burns up completely and fails.


If you solder the connections on the underside of the top plate, you will have a resistance-free, reliable connection that will not ever burn again.
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:21 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs View Post
If you solder the connections on the underside of the top plate, you will have a resistance-free, reliable connection that will not ever burn again.
You could do this and save the cost of the new kit. PLus, you'd be driving tonight verses waiting days for a FedEx!
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:29 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by aklim View Post
I would suggest that since you are here already, get the wire connectors from Racetronix. I really don't like it if something goes wrong and you get blamed especially if you can send them pictures and ask what to do.

I guess I am not totally sold on needing that much amps to run the pump unless I really need the amount of feed. I have run my car at WOT and it doesn't seem to be starving for fuel according to the gauge and an engine builder when we did it years ago.
Originally Posted by vader86 View Post
Yes, still stock fuse. Since I upgraded with their harness there is another in-line fuse up at the front of the car next to the alternator. If I bypass that harness, I would make sure the fuse is bigger.

The 3-pin connector on the underside of your sending unit looks a little cooked. Mine was really really cooked. I would go ahead and get that kit from them and change it out. You will probably destroy the factory one getting it out, but pay close attention to how the new one goes in, theres really only one way it will work right and connect outside and inside.

I won't get into their tech support and general quality but they do have the kits that you need. They should start providing them all in one kit since it appears nearly everyone these days is having the harness go out too.
Thanks guys. I'll buy that kit that comes with the 3 pin underside connector. So are you guys saying to buy their wiring upgrade as well? Pictured below. Vader, did their wiring upgrade kit come with instructions on where to put/route everything?

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Old 05-07-2018, 03:41 PM
  #34  
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No their instructions don't really tell you ****, which was my problem when talking to them when I tried troubleshooting that 40A relay that comes in that kit.

Connect the alternator ring to the post on the back of the alternator, and zip tie that fuse right next to it on the wiring harness that runs right next to the weatherstripping. Then route all the wiring down below the brake booster with the main harness with zipties, and down along the frame on the drivers side with the brake lines.

Drill a small hole on the frame to mount the relay, mine is just above the rear suspension on the frame. Make sure the ground is good. Route all the wires around and the fuel tank as best you can and it just plugs into the factory. One 3-connector to the factory power, which sends power to the relay, then another 3 connector back up to the fuel pump. Its basically in-between the factory circuit. This is my install





The added body ground upgrade cable isn't really necessary and was causing me issues. Their provided battery nuts are going to strip if you turn them too much, so I trashed those.

Last edited by vader86; 05-07-2018 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 05-07-2018, 04:23 PM
  #35  
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Seems like a lot of trouble and expense, and waiting...

Is the racetronics pump that much better?
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Old 05-07-2018, 04:28 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by confab View Post
Seems like a lot of trouble and expense, and waiting...

Is the racetronics pump that much better?
The pump is a Walbro one and isn't any better than buying it from someone else, just to compare apples with apples. Thing that they have is that they make the kit so you don't have to run to the auto parts store mid-repair. For me, that makes some difference since I don't have to strip off my dirty clothes and clean up enough to put something decent on, go downtown, etc, etc.

I had no issues with their electric clips but whether they have changed since then is another issue so hard to say. As to their wire upgrade, I haven't seen enough pressure drop at WOT to really say it is worth the trouble of install.
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:23 PM
  #37  
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Excellent, thanks Vader. Sorry to keep asking all the dumb questions guys. So before leaving to work this morning, the garage smelled a lot like gas, no surprise. So I put the pump back in the tank, and put the gas cap back on. When I got back home, I realized I put the pump in the tank without the sock. Wonder if I hurt the pump already, by doing that?

Last edited by 1993C4LT1; 05-07-2018 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:25 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1 View Post
Wonder if I hurt the pump already, by doing that?
No worries. The sock is just the strainer; the fuel will go through the pump anyway.

You are good.
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Old 05-08-2018, 02:00 PM
  #39  
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FWIW, it's been two years since I changed my fuel pump with a Walbro from Racetronics. First, the in tank part of my sending init was rusted, too. Even though it cleaned up pretty well my feeling was that it will just quickly just rust again. So, I replaced it as well as the seal/gasket. Second, after my install, no start. I removed the new pump, began looking closely at the wires and I discovered that the positive and negative were transposed. I never thought to check before installation, I just assumed they would be correct. I had to remove the wires from the supplied connector, reverse and replace in the connector. Instant start. Lastly, Unless your tank is spotless, I suggest using a vacuum extractor and sucking your tank dry and any debris in the tank. It's not worth the few bucks worth of gas to risk that debris mucking up the sock. Well, that was two cents worth. Good luck!
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Old 05-08-2018, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1 View Post
Excellent, thanks Vader. Sorry to keep asking all the dumb questions guys. So before leaving to work this morning, the garage smelled a lot like gas, no surprise. So I put the pump back in the tank, and put the gas cap back on. When I got back home, I realized I put the pump in the tank without the sock. Wonder if I hurt the pump already, by doing that?
I don't think you hurt the pump but why is it smelling like gas? Regardless of whether I put the sock on or not, if there is a gas smell and you just pulled the pump, I wonder if you sealed it right? Was there a new gasket or did you reuse?
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