ZEROVETTE7

aklim

Looking at the part, it is just a set of headers. You have to connect it to the exhaust system which is AFTER the cat so you are going to have to have a cat that slips in or something to bridge that gap.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...r/applications

That would connect to "Y" the headers together but something still needs to bridge the gap left by the cat. You might be able to get away with a straight pipe but it will be noisy.

vader86

2149 or 2151 call for the 16720 Ypipe to fit to the stock main cat.

ZEROVETTE7

aklim

IMO, yes. If you are trying to copy the old muscle car noise, no. If you drive in towns with noise ordinances, yes. I put in a cat because the wife did not like it and I did not see the point of exhaust noise and neither did the town. Less noise less attention from the cops and less civilians noticed my car and come to ask me stupid questions. OTOH if I were an attention *****, I'd want to be loud to attract rice people, it works to be loud and take my chances with the cops. I had a Merkur XR4Ti that had a muffler only. Big downpipe and 3 in all the way back. Got stopped a few times in a nearby town. Also the cops where I live next town over crack down on that. I brought my HD for dyno tuning and they had me sign a waiver if I wanted a road test since my exhaust was not stock.

Before I do anything, go check the noise ordinances around you and make sure that they are not enforcing it. A nearby city is a FINE city. They will tag you for anything they can to make a buck. So.....

BTW, I have a 383 with TPIS Long Tube headers and Borla cat back.

ghoastrider1

I have headmans, no cat and a X pipe. I have good mufflers so it isnt to loud unless I press the loud button. I also had a shop custom install my exhaust system so maybe thats why it isnt to loud at normal driving.

TheBlaster9001

I have Melrose long tubes to a catless x-pipe to Borla mufflers. Sounds amazing when I romp on it, but is really quite subtle otherwise. The drone was a major issue for me at first, but after I went about tuning it, the drone is much, much quieter, especially on the highway.

ZEROVETTE7

aklim

You are going to need to have something to connect to that front piece which also has the support brace. That was to be the catalytic converter. Your headers end in a straight pipe at the end of the "Y". A cat is supposed to slip fit in there and hook up to the front piece since that is part of the support.

I'd line up someone who does dyno tune that and bring it to their facility. There are less and less every day before I do anything. Otherwise you are at the mercy of the mail order tunes, or as I like to call them "Guess a tune".

ZEROVETTE7

aklim

My combination involves doing a Holley Stealth Ram with a hood scoop to clear the HSR. TPIS LT headers, Beefed up 700R4 and a 3.54 D44 unit. Tuned it makes 420 to the wheels with all the ascessories

TheBlaster9001

Would you mind sharing 0-60 / 1/4 mile times? I've been working on dialing in my tune, and your car is fairly comparable to mine. I think my next step in injectors, I think they may be bottle-necking me at this point.

ZEROVETTE7

aklim

A whole differential. You have a D36 so find a D44 unit, change the gears out and make sure everything in the diff is good. Install. Change C-beam to manual trans one or drill appropriate holes. https://www.tomsdifferentials.com

ZEROVETTE7

ctmccloskey

In case you want an alternate, take a look at Allen's Stainless Exhaust systems in Indiana. I bought their "Chambered Cat-Back" system in the Aluminized Steel but they offer it in Stainless. On my 1988 C4 I replaced the catalytic converter with a High Flow unit from Summit racing and put the cat-back system on. On a virtually stock L98 I gained about 14 hp using a GTECH Pro for verification of change/upgrade. I believe that most of my power gain was from the high flow catalytic and not the 3" chambered pipes. When using Chambered exhaust systems they don't use the big bulky mufflers, the sound is awesome and on my 1988 automatic C4 it does not have any "drone" issues that is very common with after-market exhaust systems. I would suggest you take a look at what they have to offer.

I bought both of my Chambered systems from Allen's at Corvettes@Carlisle and they have worked great and installed without modifications on both my 1968 and 1988 Corvettes. The first Chambered Exhaust I bought has been on the car for over 25 years and the second one over 20 years, not bad for "Aluminized Steel" systems.

I would love to have headers for my C4 but have not found a set of long tube headers that I can afford and will fit without using a hammer to "Notch" things. I have a set of Long Tube headers on my 1968 C3 427 and they do make some serious heat under the hood. I recently found damage to the paint on my hood above the headers. The original cast iron exhaust manifolds used on the mid to late 1960's Big Block flowed fairly well by themselves but never damaged the paint on my hood like the headers have. The C4 has even less room so I would have to do something to protect the body from heat damage like I got on my C3.

There have been a lot of Corvettes that have been damaged or destroyed by headers, for this reason I would not buy any header that is not Ceramic coated inside and out for protection. On a stock L98 it might not be worth the little extra you will get from the headers unless you have done serious work to allow the engine to flow more air through it. I also do not like the idea of wrapping my headers, it looks ugly unless done by an expert.

I hope that you find a good deal but get a system that sounds great!

ZEROVETTE7

ZEROVETTE7

383vett

The ARH headers come with a y-pipe which connects to a catalytic converter. The Borla cat back is exactly as stated, a cat back system. It connects to the back of the catalytic converter. You need a catalytic converter or a dummy pipe to connect the two.

ZEROVETTE7