C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Replacing the coolant

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Old 10-15-2018, 11:44 PM
  #61  
Tom400CFI
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~'95 or '96. Why?
Old 10-16-2018, 05:35 AM
  #62  
N875ED
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My 95 has green coolant, and I’m wondering if somebody in the car”s past replaced the orange DexCool with the wrong coolant. (Ethylene glycol)
Old 10-16-2018, 07:27 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by N875ED
My 95 has green coolant, and I’m wondering if somebody in the car”s past replaced the orange DexCool with the wrong coolant. (Ethylene glycol)
If that is your suspicion, why not flush everything? When I get a used car, "It flows, it goes".
Old 10-16-2018, 12:26 PM
  #64  
rjacobs
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green or orange is no real huge difference in the LT1/4 cars... Hell you can run either in L98 cars too.

Early cars had green, later cars had orange...

DONT mix the two.

I suspect GM's switch to Dex-Cool in 95 or 96 had nothing to do with "Corvette" and everything to do with an entire change to EVERY car GM produced that year.


And I agree with Aklim: I change every fluid in used cars when I buy them.
Old 10-16-2018, 05:31 PM
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GM started using dex cool in 96. I added new coolant and started up the car and let it ran for about 15 mins till the temperature gauge got to 185. I put the cap on and drove it around the block and the temperature slowly started to climb up past the middle.

I'm assuming I still have air in the system. What is the best way to get rid of the air. Should I let it run longer at idle with the cap off?

Last edited by turbobuick33; 10-16-2018 at 05:33 PM.
Old 10-16-2018, 06:13 PM
  #66  
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Open the bleeder screws with it not running. Air goes to the high points so check there, and open the cap on the surge tank...air should be there, too.
Old 10-22-2018, 07:03 PM
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turbobuick33
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I'm having a difficult time getting the air out. The temperature keeps on climbing, and once it get past half way, the expansion tank starts to over flow and I shut the car off. I know there still air in the the system. How do I get this air out?

I've opened the bleeder valve with the ign off for a few seconds till coolant comes out and i run the car with the cap off and still the temp slowly climbs up and the expansion tank will over flow.

This is a pita...why cant i get rid of this air in the system? Any other suggestion?

Last edited by turbobuick33; 10-22-2018 at 07:08 PM.
Old 10-22-2018, 07:11 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by turbobuick33
I'm having a difficult time getting the air out. The temperature keeps on climbing, and once it get past half way, the expansion tank starts to over flow and I shut the car off. I know there still air in the the system. How do I get this air out?

I've opened the bleeder valve with the ign off for a few seconds till coolant comes out and i run the car with the cap off and still the temp slowly climbs up and the expansion tank will over flow.

This is a pita...why cant i get rid of this air in the system? Any other suggestion?
First, use the digital temp gauge "COOL" -- the analog gauge is mostly useless. And remember normal temps for these cars... up to 230F is normal. At that point the fans should be running and the temp should drop quickly. If it goes above 235 I would shut it off and let it cool down completely, then check the overflow tank to see if it has drawn anything up into the surge tank.
Old 10-22-2018, 09:31 PM
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When it's running and the expansion tank starts to over flow, should I keep the car running?

Last edited by turbobuick33; 10-22-2018 at 09:33 PM.
Old 10-22-2018, 09:53 PM
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I don't know why so many people have such a hard time with this.

If you have to, let the thing cool down and then pull the tstat housing off, and fill the thing with coolant through the water pump housing. Fill it to the top so the tstat is sitting in coolant.
Old 10-22-2018, 10:44 PM
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I don't either. Ya don't need to remove the t-stat housing. Fill it where it was meant to be filled, open bleeders 'till you get coolant, close and top the fill tank. DONE.

When are you getting over flow from the tank: running w/the cap OFF? If so, that's going to happen. Coolant expands as it heats, so it has no choice but to over flow the tank if the cap is off.

Fill the system cold to the top of the tank. Open the bleeder 'till coolant comes out. Close 'em. Top the tank again then put the cap on. Run the car. It should run and cool normally.
Old 10-22-2018, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
I don't either. Ya don't need to remove the t-stat housing. Fill it where it was meant to be filled, open bleeders 'till you get coolant, close and top the fill tank. DONE.

When are you getting over flow from the tank: running w/the cap OFF? If so, that's going to happen. Coolant expands as it heats, so it has no choice but to over flow the tank if the cap is off.

Fill the system cold to the top of the tank. Open the bleeder 'till coolant comes out. Close 'em. Top the tank again then put the cap on. Run the car. It should run and cool normally.
No you certainly don't, but its useful as a last resort, since its basically impossible to screw it up lol.
Old 10-22-2018, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by PatternDayTrader
No you certainly don't, but its useful as a last resort, since its basically impossible to screw it up lol.
When I say impossible, I mean impossible to trap air under the tstat. I didn't read this entire thread but when someone complains about overheating after the cooling system has been drained then typically the problem is air under the tstat, which sort of prevents the tstat from contacting hot coolant (because the air displaces the coolant), so it wont open when it should, which makes the engine over heat.

Last edited by PatternDayTrader; 10-22-2018 at 11:21 PM.
Old 10-22-2018, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by turbobuick33
GM started using dex cool in 96. I added new coolant and started up the car and let it ran for about 15 mins till the temperature gauge got to 185. I put the cap on and drove it around the block and the temperature slowly started to climb up past the middle.

I'm assuming I still have air in the system. What is the best way to get rid of the air. Should I let it run longer at idle with the cap off?
The temp gauge in this picture is in a normal position. Nothing wrong here.
Old 10-22-2018, 11:41 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by PatternDayTrader
When I say impossible, I mean impossible to trap air under the tstat. I didn't read this entire thread but when someone complains about overheating after the cooling system has been drained then typically the problem is air under the tstat, which sort of prevents the tstat from contacting hot coolant (because the air displaces the coolant), so it wont open when it should, which makes the engine over heat.
Copy all that. It all makes sense. I'm with you though....IDK why folks struggle with this. It's super easy.
Old 10-23-2018, 07:04 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by PatternDayTrader
The temp gauge in this picture is in a normal position. Nothing wrong here.
Really? Since I got the car the needle is always at about hair off of the 185 mark. So then it must have a lower temp thermostat?
Old 10-23-2018, 07:17 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by turbobuick33
Really? Since I got the car the needle is always at about hair off of the 185 mark. So then it must have a lower temp thermostat?
I cant speak to where the gauge used to be, all I can tell you is its exactly where it belongs (when the photo was taken).

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Old 10-23-2018, 10:13 AM
  #78  
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the GM procedure, which BTW works, is to open the bleed screw at the thermostat housing and fill with coolant until you get a little coolant out of it. Then close it. Then top up the coolant to the bottom of the fill neck(it has 2 levels). Run the engine at idle for 4 minutes with the cap off and keep the level full. Install the cap. Fill the overflow to the cold line.
DONE.

It doesnt say to bring the engine to a certain temp, or rev the engine or anything of that nature.

You should use just shy of 4 gallons TOTAL. If you have a lot more than say 1 quart left, you didnt get it all in.

The system self purges air and will suck coolant back through the overflow line. Check the over flow after every drive for 3 or 4 heat cycles to make sure its not empty.

Last edited by rjacobs; 10-23-2018 at 10:15 AM.
Old 10-23-2018, 10:17 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by turbobuick33
Really? Since I got the car the needle is always at about hair off of the 185 mark. So then it must have a lower temp thermostat?
And you know it's reading right because?
Old 10-23-2018, 11:14 AM
  #80  
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BTW this is the LONGEST coolant change in history...

Its been going on since July LOL....


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