SLOASC4

Hi All,
I am in the process of rebuilding the front suspension on my 1990 convertible.
I am removing the front spring to inspect it, and lower it. The drivers side unbolted with little drama. The one bolt was stuck in the mount, but I was able to use a long extension and access the bolt through the round hole in the frame after removing the steering coupler cover to gain access, and break it free and rotate it back and fort until it was free of the mount.

The passenger side front nut came free and the bolt is loose in the mount. The problem is the rear bolt. Agian, GM in their infinite wisdom used a steel bolt in an aluminum bracket with no anti-seize and the dissimilar metal corrosion has bonded it to the bracket. I have tried many things to try and free it from the bracket including penetrants, large hammers, pry bars, shaking, air hammer on the bolt, air hammer on the bracket to try and vibrate it free, and a LOT OF SWEARING at it!

Does anyone know how to access to top of the bolt, so I can try to break it free, as I did with the drivers side. There is not an access hole for the rear bolt.

Any suggestions, comments and advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam

BlowerWorks

I'd put the nut back on then heat the aluminum with a torch. While hot now hammer on the nut/bolt.

FASTAZU

SLOASC4

Thanks. I thought about adding a little heat, but I am worried about possibly damaging the spring. Thoughts?

FASTAZU

I don't think it will take much heat. You can always pack some foil or tin around the spring to protect it from the flame.

VenkmanP

The amount of heat needed to break a typical Al-Fe corrosion bond is more than I'd be willing to apply to the spring.

You also have to be careful about what chemicals you get on it.

On the other hand, springs are fairly cheap, so do what it takes to get it out, and then I'd probably replace the spring.

lrj975

I would re-fasten both front bolts l&r to square up the spring and brackets, then get a hydraulic jack on that rear bolt. Can't imagine it won't pop after a pump or 2.

ctmccloskey

The answer is real easy, KROIL IT!
KROIL is one of the absolute best penetrating oils made. I buy it on Amazon, unfortunately it is not cheap. I have at least two cans on hand at any time as this stuff is priceless when you have a "really" stuck fastener. It works very well at room temperature but with a little heat directly on the bolt it will work even better. You don't have to set fire to your fiberglass spring to get sufficient heat to do the job. I use a heat gun if I am worried about burning something, it is safer and less of a fire hazard. Kroil is very different than other penetrating oils, it works in even the tightest of junctions between bolts and their nuts.

Another option is to apply heat, then penetrating oil and finally hit it with the "Freeze Spray" sold by Gumout. The shock effect of the heat and then extreme cold works well on most any frozen fastener.

Good luck! I hope that you get your Corvette on the road again soon!