In June my wife and I went for a ride in my '95. I've owned the car 4+ years and I drive it only in the summer and it's rare that it goes over the speed limit. I take care of it. We were pulling out of a town, going up to 50 mph and I noticed it was revving high. I stopped and re-started. It would shift 1-2 but not 2-3. I ended up having it towed home. I had other pressing matters so it didn't get to a garage until a couple weeks ago. Through googling I was convinced it was the 2-3 solenoid. I had my mechanic (or more likely his idiot assistant) replace both solenoids and (of course) do a fluid/filter change. Now it won't even shift out of first. I do not have a code reader and any code reader anyone hooks to it will not read anything. I crossed pins 4 and 12 and got the following codes: C12, H67, H74, H81, H82, H83, H84, H90. I am at a loss as far as interpreting these codes, I just wanted to report them here. Because I question the solenoid replacement job, I've decided to do it myself. I ordered 2 new solenoids. I am wondering many things... were the new solenoids damaged when installed? Did they break a wire in the harness? Are the solenoids plugged in properly? I did call the local Chevrolet dealer and their response was that they would likely just replace the transmission at a cost of $4000. Some sites state that my symptoms indicate that I blew the clutches for 3rd gear. How can I do that driving like a grandmother? There are no transmission shop in the area. I am in northern Maine. I am at the mercy of hack mechanics or the dealer. Some have suggested checking the fuse. I wasn't aware that the transmission had a fuse and I sure can't find it in my diagram. I would welcome any help.

 

Is it a flare? Because, if it is, that is a common 4L60 failure.

And yes, it sounds like they made the problem worse rather than better.

 

Makes no difference.. The second you lose pressure anywhere in the 4L60/E, it burns the 3-4 clutch, and it happens very fast.

I doubt the solenoids will fix it.

If you are missing shifts entirely? Perhaps.. But if you have a flare, it is doubtful.

No trans power causes third gear start.

 

When it attempted the 2-3 shift, it was just like I kicked it into neutral.

 

Is it like this?

You roll out, it's perfect. Shift's 1-2, perfect.. No slip no nothing.. It goes to third and you just hear the engine rev?

If you get it fast enough to jump third? Same condition..

Sound right?

 

"You roll out, it's perfect. Shift's 1-2, perfect.. No slip no nothing.. It goes to third and you just hear the engine rev?"

That's it exactly. Never been able to jump third. I didn't even know it was possible.

 

You have most of the solenoid codes. I would check connector where harness plugs in transmission. Do you have FSM or 4l60e service guide? I would try to diagnose at least one of the codes. If one solenoid failed replacing the others could be PM. You want to review replacement procedure a head of time. Once you drop pan you kinda stuck. The valve body will need to be removed to replace soleniods.

 

This whole thing is pretty catastrophic but not the end of the world I guess. I'll put it away and set aside money for a rebuilt. There's always next year.

 

It is possible depending on vehicle speed, but it won't help.

This is a classic symptom of the 4L60E. If you lose pressure, anywhere, the first thing that happens is you burn the 3-4 clutch.

It needs rebuilt or replaced.

Seen it a million times. I run a transmission shop down here near Cincy.

Sorry to be the arbiter of bad news bro, but you are wasting money on solenoids.

 

I do have the 2 volume service manual. I've heard mixed messages about dropping the valve body. Some say it's necessary, others say it's not.

 

I don't know if I should mention a retailer here and will delete if not, but someone suggested getting a rebuilt from a company called monster transmissions? It's like $1200 or so, and I assume shipping will add a couple hundred. I don't exactly have that kind of money falling out of my hip pocket but I could do it over time. If I have to back it into it's garage and forget about it until next spring, so be it. (Yes, it has it's own garage lol).

 

unfamiliar with them..

 

I imagine there are a bunch of them out there. There is a junkyard about 175 miles from here with a 4L60E from a '95 for $850 but I'm sure that's a pig in a poke.

 

I just put it out there you could check with local GM dealer about a SRTA it would have 36 mo.50k p&l warranty and you could try a few different dealers because pricing can vary

 

This is a problem because corvette transmissions are unique. (So it has to be a corvette) The output shaft is shorter and anything you are buying is still decades old.

850 is high for this area anyway.. But, local markets vary.

There is a definite gambling aspect to any used trans purchase and you are compounding it by the age of the vehicle.

If 850 is the price? I'd do a rebuild first.. At least it has a warranty and it isn't two decades old.

You CAN fix this yourself, but it will take an expert level mechanical ability..

 

Good point. I'm sure I'd spend more but I'd at least have some coverage.

 

Yeah, the last one I rebuilt was a Powerglide in 1980 lol.

 

Did it work? You're about 90% ahead of everyone else..

You can do this..

 

Fuzzy memory but the only problem I remember was pulling the pump. Seems like I used a slide hammer or something?

 

If you want to try it.. I'll do my best to help.